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alnavasa

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Everything posted by alnavasa

  1. Hi guys, I am new into this world, and I don't really know what I am doing wrong. This is the last printout I have done, Starting from the brim that its not straight lined, and bubbling, and also problems of stringing because of retraction? If you could suggest tips in order to get better results. Thanks
  2. I've heard about filaflex, but i think that it needs the extruder to be on the nozzle
  3. Hi guys, I have the ultimaker since a week and I love it as far as I've used it. I am wondering if there is and option to enable retraction on the first layers and the brim, because for printing its not a problem, but if you want a nice finish on the first layers, it would be nice, I'll atach a picture of what i mean
  4. Okey, now i can design a doble fan anular cooling system, I'll post it on youmagine when its done! (probably after april 11th, I am having a lot of hand ins before that date, I study architecture
  5. I like that, I'll give it a try, I don't like the fact of changing bluetape or messing to un stick the prints
  6. So... I should either spray or put stick glue or something? It's not posible to print straight over cristal or aluminum
  7. El filaflex, por lo que he oído que cuenta su propio creador es necesario que el extrusor este montado en el cabezal, como la UP creo o algunas reprap, en el caso de la ultimaker no es así, estaría interesante una modificación que permitiera dicha función montando el extrusor en el mismo cabezal
  8. So it has the same voltage, and some extra amperage, so that it can run the Fan with the same amount of power, and an extra one. I mean, One fan (GUESSING) uses 5 volts and 200mAh two fans in parallel uses the same voltage but double amperage, that means that the board circuit has the capability to give that double amount of amperage But they get a little bit warmer Am I ok?
  9. I may try that, I thought that by having the heated bed i didn't need that any more. I'll give that a try, I thought that I could print over kapton tape easily For me it sticks, but later it warps, so, yo mean over the aluminum? Is it Better to use cristal or aluminum ? Thanks to all you
  10. So, thats pretty much it, I am getting a lot of warping on the Ultimaker Original prints, I need to always use Brim (which I don't like) Someone told me to print in 100ºC but i think 70ºC sticks better, but I am sure that there is an optimum temp for it. It's a PCB MK2 Heated bed, pasted with kapton to an aluminum plate (4mm), that has another shell of Kapton on top where I print. So what should be the temp for printing PLA? so that it sticks perfectly with no brim needed. And what about ABS i tried once to do it, but it took the heated bed 30 min to reach 120ºC (it takes 11 to reach 100
  11. For me its ok, just hold it in between, but maybe (i don't know about programing) it would be nice to go faster in the steps in the temp menus, and slower in the main menu
  12. I would like to see le layer number too!! Instead of the printing message, a "Printing layer XXXX" (On the ulticontrol, and In Cura for those who print from there) I am talking in an UM original, maybe this could be done by Gcode
  13. I was thinking on placing to Fans to the Ultimaker Original, I know its a dumb question, but... Where do you plug the second fan? Just to the same plug as the first one? That means that both fans will run, but, half the speed that the ulticontroll says ? I am kind of freaking out with this, and I can't find the answer anywhere.
  14. Ha pasado tiempo desde que publicaste esto, pero en cura hay un plugin que te da la opcion de Tweek at Z simplemente cambiar parametros a partir de tal capa o tal altura; no se si te servirá ; saludos desde Madrid
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