alnavasa
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Posts posted by alnavasa
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2 hours ago, Dustin said:
You can still buy basically any parts from your local UltiMaker reseller. (even if your not original owner)
Even if its not listed on their website you can contact them directly for a quote.
UltiMaker does not currently sell parts for S series direct to end customer.Yeah, coming from the old days it is a little bit harder to understand some stuff, all the accessories are not at the ultimaker site, maybe not for buying, but at least to have a look at the products. I get that the reason for this is to have some better after sales service for business, but for enthusiast, so far I don't like it, will see.
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Logitech cam works on my computer via USB,
Ultimaker Camera Via USB to my computer doesn't work, it is recognized as USB 2.0 camera, but doesn't output any video
Any idea where I can buy a "Ultimaker camera V2.0"
Since my machine is used I don't have any representative assigned to me.
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I have connected a Logitech usb camera to the printer, Removing the white usb for the ultimaker PCB from the original camera, and plug-in my Logitech webcam to that USB, The cam works, so it either the original cam that is broken, or the cabling.
(Ultimaker S5 R1 has all electronics exposed and there is risk of fatality, to do this process first I remove any power connection from the printer, and wait 5 minutes for condensation to offload) -
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9 hours ago, Travis7s said:
I used to get just a black screen for the camera and would fix it by "Cure Conect Reset" in the maintenance menu although I don't recall ever not seeing the blue camera icon.
I can see the camera icon, but when I click there is no image,
Can't find cura connect reset on my S5 machine, I think that reset feature is from 2018-2019 since all I read about that reset is from then, though, I have done a complete factory reset of the machine via the screen menus.
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Downgraded from 8.2.1 (Latest) to 8.2.0 (Stable) Still no camera feed.
Rebooted two times, Still no camera feed.
Also the machine is the S5 R1, robot on the sides. -
Hi,
I come from a very long time without using my printer,
I acquired a Ultimaker original and upgraded it to ultimaker plus back around 2013-2014. That I absolutely loved, but never managed to print anything harder than PETG or PLA+Yesterday I Happened to buy a used ultimaker S5 to get back in the hobby,
I am actually loving the machine, the build quality and the capabilities, (also the machine is huge compared to my other one)
But I am having an issue,
I tried to read forums and tried many things before creating, yet another post about this issue,
Camera feed,
I can't see the camera feed neither in cura blue camera icon, neither at the local ip of the printer, neither at the iOS ultimaker app or the cloud online digital factory. Printing works perfectly and I even get a notification when print is done (no picture)
Things I have tried,
- Factory reboot
- Multiple reboots
- Both wifi and ethernet connections
Printer is at 192.168.20.97, might it be a subnet issue?
Printer is running 8.2.1
I can see from online pictures that the webcam is a usb cam, should I try to use that cam with my laptop to check integrity?
Ps: Also I don't have a BB core, and it is required for calibration, is there any other workaround? I have AA.4 AA.8 CC.6
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On 12/10/2014 at 11:37 AM, amedee said:
I had no time so far tu publish it, but I can share my firmware if someone is interested in...
(It is the 'official' Ultimaker Marlin compiled with support for the 'Full Graphic Smart Controller')
Hi Amedee, is there any way not to show the extruder 2 and 3 temps on the smart controller?
Everything else works as expected!
PS: Is it worth to upgrade the belts and pulleys to GT2?
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1 hour ago, tinkergnome said:
Ultimaker Original is very well documented. It seems to be 12V, 1.2W
https://github.com/Ultimaker/UltimakerOriginal/tree/master/1075_Print_Head_Fan_12VDC_1%2C2W
Thanks, the my problem is because there are so many different versions of this printer :S
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On 1/20/2015 at 12:45 PM, zoev89 said:
The voltage on the fans at the UMO are 19V. That quite a trouble maker.I changed it to 12V...
Does that also apply to the ultimaker Original with the 1.5.7 Electronics board.
I currently have two 12v fans, and after reading in forums, bought a 24v impeller fan, connected it and it blows very vey slow.... and only with PWM higher than 175, so makes me think that maybe it is 12v.I attach the design down here
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On 5/25/2018 at 6:08 AM, gr5 said:
6) feeder spring issues - too tight, too loose. You want the tension such that you can clearly see the diamond pattern biting into the filament. You want to see at least 2 columns of diamonds. 4 columns is too much. You usually want the tension in the center.
On The Ultimaker original, does this apply too? I find my self struggling on how much is too much and how little is too little pressure, The knurled bolt on the original Ultimaker original has a different pattern than on the UM2 (I think), so I guess this apply differently right? how much is the right tension? I can't find any post explaining this,
Only found the Ultimaker website, where "no marks" is too little and "material grinded" is too much
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Buenas tardes, señor@s!
Estoy pensandome comprar una Ultimaker, pero me gustaría que la gente me aconsejara por lo que planteo unas cuantas preguntas antes de hacerlo:
1. Estoy queriendo comprar una UM Original +. La quiero para el hobby, pero no quiero un juguete. Por ello, opto por la UMO+. En teoría el kit DIY de 1200€ incluye la placa calefactada y el extrusor capaz de operar de 180 a 260º. Por ello, a pesar de ser más "rudimentaria" que la UM2, la UMO+ puede procesar los mismos materiales con la misma rugosidad que UM2. ¿Cierto o no? Ser más o menos rápida me da igual.
2. En base a lo dicho en 2. tanto UMO+ como UM2 (en teoría) pueden procesar FilaFlex, Nylon, quizá hasta Policarbonato; y no solo PLA y ABS. ¿Habéis probado algo más que no sea PLA/ABS?
3. ¿Todavía tardan 2 meses en mandartela? La quiero pedir a finales de este mes, así que sería para el año que viene, ¿no?
4. He leído en varios foros en inglés que la gente está rajando del servicio de soporte de Ultimaker. ¿Qué experiencia tenéis?
Os agradezco mucho vuestras respuestas de antemano.
Saludos,
Voja
A ver varios temas.
yo tengo la original y me va estupendamente, la encontré de segunda mano por 800€ en madrid con 4 rollos cama caliente ulticotroler...
el motor del extrusor hace mucho ruido pero hay un damper en thingiverse o youmagine que te puedes imprimir para evitar esto, de todas formas es mas ruidosa, al ser una caja de madera,
en el tema de materiales, nylon no he probado policarbonato tampoco pero temas flexibles he probado el flexible de ultimaker que va bastante mal hay que imprimirlo muy lento, pero esto es un problema de diseño de todas las maquinas que no llevan extrusor directo, ni con la uno ni con la dos podrás imprimir bien bien materiales flexibles ya que al empujarlos por el tubo el motor, estos se encogen dilatandose y atascandose en el tubo (bowden). Habla con el de recreos (filaflex) que es un material español, y están siempre por todas las ferias,
yo en cuanto a soporte tuve dos problemas una reedita que se me rompió (rueda de plástico) que intenté imprimirla pero requería un material muy duro, ultimaker me mando dos a 0€, por otro lado se me rompió el isolator tube, y eso consideraron que era un problema de uso a parte de que esa pieza si que la vendían ellos suelta en su tienda
Un saludo desde madrid
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Add supports, it helps with the overhangs, It has a great potential, but needs to be studied, you can check iluminartis post at extrudable.me
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So right now I am printing over cristal (just placed over the aluminum) prints got way better, I think its due to what you say, the bed leveling, I think that the aluminum was not completely flat, cristal should be completely flat, and has a very difficult chance to be deformed.
I didn't have time to check thing, and try other, just printing over cristal heated to 65ºC sprayed with hairspray, It sticks perfect, and its a little bit triky to get it out, but I didn't have time to make a 9 hour print and have that risk, so thats what I did.
I'll try printing bare on the cristal next time, also printing first layer warmer, thats a good idea,
Thanks gr5 for all the support given!
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I would appreciate if you don't call those overhang strings "strings" as usually "strings" are problems with retraction and oozing on non-printing moves. You can calls those noodles or something to clarify.
As far as the "overhangs bending upside", this is a serious problem. The best fix is to keep things as cold as possible and crank that fan! There are several solutions and lots of work has been done on this. Here is some discussion, some slow motion video, and fixes and much more:
http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4094-raised-edges/&do=findComment&comment=33079
Please read through the whole thing as the understanding and theories are wrong at first but get more accurate after a while. The solutions also get better. It's a fascinating topic for me as I get this problem all the time.
English its not my main language, thats why I don't really know how to call it,
So the problem with the overhangs its solved by less temp and more cooling?
I've just installed a second fan, I'll try that later this days.
Is there any source files for the WHOLE extruder in order to re cut it or re print it, because I have some broken wood parts there,
In the github Ilustrator file there are not all the files from the extruder just the two hanging things ( My UM its a revision3, I don't care upgrading it to Rev 4 extruder)
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Alnavasa, For people printing RC tires (and nearly everything else in the RC car) you can check the OpenRC project . It seem NinjaFlex works fine, but from this very thread it might have issues on an Ultimaker.
Thanks for answering, We should make our ultimaker go direct extruder in order to extrude this materials in a better way.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:110269
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Hey, is there any printable flex material that could print RC tires?, My dad its a big fan of them and he wants a specific tire dimension that its not in the market
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Yo me compre una UM original por aquí en madrid de segunda mano (por el precio mas que nada)
de todas formas tendrás que estar atento a ver que se habla en el foro sonbre el tema del extrusr que estaba dando problemas,
no es un tema de activarla o desactivarla, todo el mundo creo que la tiene activada para evitar que se formen esos hilitos http://www.jonshobbies.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/3D-Printer-OB-1.4-stringy-Y-Carriage-in-PLA-Closeup-zero-retraction.jpg
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La retracción siempre se activa (o casi siempre) consiste en que la maquina retrocede el motor que expulsa el hilo, ya que por su propio peso o inercia seguiría cayendo dejando hilos, de esa forma te los quitas,
hay otra cosa que es el combing, que es parecida, que la maquina no retrae, pero hace un camino sobre la propia pieza para así si deja hilo que lo deje sobre la pieza (este hilo es depreciable en la calidad de la impresión, excepto si eres como yo que en la primera capa no me gusta el acabado que deja)
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I also still try to get rid of this. I also thinking this is related to cooling/shrinking. Normally turning print temp down helps a bit on this one.
Hmm, I'll try that, Right now I am printing a Ultibot with a new fan, I'll post the pictures if there are differences,
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I am finally starting to get great Prints, by slowing down the speed of the shells and increasing the infill speed.
1.2 mm of shell
I still have some problems with the over hangs bending upside, and then the nozzle pushes them down, then they bend up again and like this all the time,
I think its a problem of cooling
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I like the idea, But not the way to develop it,
Isn't there any software way to develop that?
PD: that Usb power, as someone told me(I don't know if it is true), can damage your computer PSU.
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This is the start G code I have in cura in order to know when the machine is heated
;Sliced at: {day} {date} {time}
;Basic settings: Layer height: {layer_height} Walls: {wall_thickness} Fill: {fill_density}
;Print time: {print_time}
;Filament used: {filament_amount}m {filament_weight}g
;Filament cost: {filament_cost}
M190 S{print_bed_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own bed temperature line
;M109 S{print_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own temperature line
M300 S1000 P1000
M300 S900 P500
M300 S800 P250
M300 S700 P125
M300 S600 P125
M300 S400 P75
M300 S300 P37
M300 S200 P500
M300 S1000 P9
G4 P3000
G21 ;metric values
G90 ;absolute positioning
M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode
M107 ;start with the fan off
G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops
G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops
G1 Z15.0 F{travel_speed} ;move the platform down 15mm
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length
G1 F200 E7 ;extrude 7mm of feed stock
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again
G1 F{travel_speed}
;Put printing message on LCD screen
M117 UltiMaking...
The bold part of the Gcode Makes a kind of music sound, then pauses three seconds (where I check that there is enough material about to extrude), and then starts the procedure to do a print.
While printing from SD card
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I'll Probably print it today or tomorrow, I am rewiring the heated bed connections of the UM, I need to do some soldering right now and I have the Machine sideways.
But I would like someone with experience tells us what they think about the design.
I model with Rhinoceros (free for mac (Beta version) and free for windows (trial version))
Cura crashing when MacBook goes to sleep
in UltiMaker Cura
Posted
Cura crashes when MacBook goes to sleep, crash report below,
Makes me sometimes log in again or set the whole app again.