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somewhereinla

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Everything posted by somewhereinla

  1. Bonjours, mois j'utilise du "ScotchBlue" 2090 de 3M sur la plaque chauffante a 65 degré , et l' adhesion est parfaite. J'imprime enter 200 et 210.
  2. Have you tried changing those setting in the "machine settings" menu?
  3. Je suis d'accord. Le fichier n'est pas solide et c'est le problème....
  4. I am sorry to say, your machine(s) does not have a problem(s). Mine wobble a little as well and all my prints have been perfect. As mentioned all you need to do is squaring it by loosening the screws and re tighten. However either way it won't affect the prints...
  5. Maybe it will be better, but my experience is when you have a 2 extruders machine, you bring other set of problems ( i have a Makerbot dual extrusion as well), not to say that the extruder is still 0.4mm. My opinion, is for $3000 the Ultimaker is a great machine, I would have never dream a few years ago that I would be able to print 3d stuff from home at this price point, but you can't hope to get the same results as a $100000 machine. You need to be honest about you expectations.
  6. L'UM2 c'est quand meme mieux je pense.
  7. If you put support then you will need to do more clean-up, it think it will complicate your problem... I am an industrial designer and precision is crucial for my work which is why I don't use 3d printers when I need a precise model. 3d printers are great for prototyping, MDF produce very cheap and very good models, but they don't come finished, no mater how expensive they are, you still need to do some work on them, such as sanding, filling, etc... Also any thermoplastic, such as ABS and PLA shrink as they dry, so even if you could achieve perfect prints, you would still have to deal with the"shrinkage effect", which you would need to compensate somehow... if you need precision, you need to invest in a CNC machine (subtractive). If you don't have the budget for a Roland, I suggest you look into FlashcutCNC light precision mill, which cost a fraction of what Roland cost, and are well suited for extreme precision work and more versatile than Roland: this is what I use for precision parts: http://www.flashcutcnc.com/cnc-machines/2000-tabletop-mills the drawback, is you need to learn machining, the nice thing with Roland, is the machining learning curve is somewhat smaller...
  8. It would be helpful to see what you are talking about... But in general you are better off not using the brim and support within Cura, and instead build it yourself in your 3d/CAD modeler.
  9. I have had many problems when the machine arrived 3 weeks ago, but all have been resolved, that is until a couple of days ago when I starting having more problems with the feeder and the nozzle.... All of my problem have been fixed, the positive news it the machine is very easy to to fix and take appart if you are comfortable doing so... One thing I did notice as well is how many screws weren't tightened enough, borderline loose. The good news is that all the prints so far have been really good and the UM2 has been pretty reliable. The other good news is that I live in Pasadena, so if you have more problems you want help with, you can pm me and we can arrange to meet. cheers.
  10. I thought I would post an update. Most of the problems I had are resolved: The fans. All the screws were tight, but most of what I read including a suggestion from support leads to a problem with tightening... I removed all the screws, inspected the fans and carefully re-insert each screws. The noise is gone. So problem#1 is solved. As far as the kill switch not working, upon close inspection, I noticed that the problem was with the left fan hitting the left panel and preventing the kill switch located in the back left corner ( controlling the x axis ) to fully engaged the 0n/off switch ( the little click you hear). I was missing 2mm. I bent the metal strip of the kill switch by about 2mm to compensate. The UM2 is now homing normally. Problem 2 solved. Last but not least, I did notice that one screw/bolt holding the frames together was missing... I am going to contact support to get a replacement. On a positive note, the UM2 has been printing like a champ. I do need to start playing with the settings a little to get better overhangs, for better aesthetics, , but as is, out of the box it is really good already and all the parts I have printed so far are usable... cheers.
  11. The screws are fine, that's the first thing I checked...
  12. I have printed a lot of ABS on a makerbot, just got my UM2 and haven't tried it yet on the UM2... This is the setting I have used successfully in the past. Keep in mind that the ambient room temperature can affect overall temperature and so is any air currents/drafts. I use 115C for the build plate and 235C for the extruder. For the model to stick, I use an abs/acetone slur on top of Kapton tape. A thin layer is enough.
  13. I just got my UM2 and have no experience with ABS on it, but I also have a makerbot (first gen) and for the past 2 years, i have printed with ABS exclusively. ABS does not send well, and using acetone to make it smoother will remove the detail as well, basically you are "melting" the plastic in a controlled manner. The only way, that I have seen, to get those fine details you are looking for, would be to print with a smaller nozzle, such as a .02mm. Of course printing time would be somewhat longer....
  14. C'est drôle, je viens de poster le meme problème dent le forum general. Les miens font entre 75 et 80 decibels, donc très loin des 49 decibels théorique... p.s: Je suis nouveau sur le forum, je suis Français mais j'habite aux état unis depuis plus de 20 ans, donc pardonner mes fautes d'orthographe et de syntax, je n'écris plus jamais en français...
  15. I agree, making support in 3d is a much better strategy.
  16. I just got an UM2 and the fans are exceptionally loud (75-80 decibels). Does anyone has this problem? What did you do? Has anyone replaced their fans with different one? Seems that nowadays, fans should be whisper quite... cheers.
  17. Buying experience: I live in California, so I bought my Ultimaker2 from the only reseller in the U.S, Makershed. When I found Makershed, they were expecting stock "soon", I could not pre-order, they instructed me to forward my email address as they were building a waiting list. I would be informed as soon as they arrived. After 2-3 weeks of waiting, I checked their website and it the UM2 was back in stock. I ordered one that day. @ things surprised me though, they never sent an email and they bumped up the price by $300, which I sought was bad test and bad business. I understand the demand and supply concept, but don't advertise a price when you don't have the stock and then change it as soon as you do. Delivery: Fed-ex dropped the package yesterday. The box wasn't in great shape, but nothing dramatic, that is until I actually opened it. Two of the packaging corners were crushed. I took the UM2 off the box, followed the provided instructions, turn it on, and nothing was working properly, the belt mechanism jammed, the machine was making very pound noise, I turned it off immediately. I called Makershed, early in the afternoon, no answer. I left a message but never got a call back. I am assuming that customer support isn't their priority. I am an industrial designer, I have built a couple CNC and own a replicator (gen1) as well, so I decided to give it a shot. Upon close inspection, I realized that the timing pulley weren't properly fastened, causing the rods to snap out of the bearing, which in turn caused the belt to un-tight. Also the kill switch do not seem to work as well. I carefully re-aligned all the component and after a few trials, I was able to print a very decent print. I run the extrusion test, found somewhere on this forum, and got to the 10mm mark. Although, at 10mm you can see it becomes to degrade... nothing dramatic. Un-resolved problems: The fan(s) are very loud, I measured the noise at 75-80 decibel, which is a huge jump from the 49 decibel advertised. When the UM2 zero-in on the back left corner it, the whole machine start shaking, probably due to the kill switch not working. I have forwarded my concerns to Ultimaker support and awaiting an answer. Conclusion: If the test prints hadn't come out as nice as they did, the machine would be on it's way back. If Ultimaker reads this post here are two humble advices: 1/ Use hi-density foam AND double box. There is a reason why your competition does it. Boxes for that type of equipment aren't just use to ship one way, they are useful when equipment need service, storage, or when you move. They also send an important message about the company "caring" for what they make. First impression is important... 2/ Choose your reseller wisely, more that resellers they should be your ambassador, protect your brand and support your customers. I have spend 20 years in branding/consumer research and I can tell you how damaging a couple of negative review can do to a company. 3/ Despite the problems so far, i know I am going to love the UM2. I like the design, the compact footprint, the extruder design, and once I figure out the remaining problems, I know this will end up being a happy purchase. As for my Makerbot, I think it will soon find its new home on ebay. cheers.
  18. Hi, Anyone knows where I can find ABS filament suitable for the Ultimaker2 (2.85mm) in the United States? cheers.
  19. Hi, I am impentiently awaiting my Ultimaker 2 (should get here on Wednesday) which will replace a Makerbot replicator (first gen). The makerbot has been great for learning, but getting a good print requires a lot of babysitting and constantly tweaking the machine. I am hoping that the ultimaker 2 will give me more time printing and less time tweaking. I have not printed with PLA before ( only ABS ), so new experience there. For 3d I use C4D, Rhino and solid works. cheers.
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