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m3dical

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  1. If you get under extrusion it means your resistance for feeding through the filament is greater than de push tha steppektor can deliver. The resistance is caused by your extrusion capacity (speed and temperature setting) and the friction of the bowden tube configuration (curvature of the bowden versus cirvature of the filament). Is you want to fix underextrusion you can decrease the resistance of the filament by straightning it or increase extrusion capacity by increasing the temperature setting or lowering the printing speed. It is all about balancing the energy you need for extrusion and the energy delivered by the heaterblock and the filament steppermotor. Get the balance wrong and you get underextrusion. Or strings if you go too far the other way.
  2. Thanks, I will give meshmixer a try. Uploading the file is no option unfortunately. Will let you know if I get it to print.
  3. Hi, I have a 3D mesh model (stl file) of a product that looks like a kind of cup. It is not closed. It has no thickness. I want to print this, but it comes out wrong since cura does not know which side is the outside surface. I am no expert on 3D aplications which also does not help me. As far as I can find I need to convert the 3D mesh to a closed model. For this I want to ad some sides to it or give it a layer thickness but Solidworks does not recognize the mesh. Does anyone know how to print this? Please help...
  4. It might have something to do with the bed temperature. It is all about balance. If you extrude more plastic than your nozzle can melt than you get under extrusion. Increasing temperature should help. Reducing the speed also helps. So that is what you should do in this case. It might have started to underextrude because the temperature influence of the heated bed dissapeared at this height or maybe cooling was too high at this point. The dark ring might be caused by having the plastic overheat slightly while the nozzle temperature overshoots and finds a new balance with the printingspeed. Think of what influences your energy balance and you will come up with the correct counter measure. But since I was not there when it happened, I would not yet dismiss the possibility of a meteore strike! Maybe this post might also be helpful to you:http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/5093-how-to-setup-print-speed-temperature-and-layer-height/
  5. Thanks. The surface looks worse than it is. It has more to do with my camera and lighting than with the print.
  6. I have printed my brothers brains that I had isolated from an MRi scan he had made as part of his studies in to neuro sience. I printed it out on 50% scale and gave it to him as a present for his graduation. The model rendering: The print finished: Finished brains on a stand (also printed ofcourse) He was pretty surprised being able to hold his own brain... :mrgreen:
  7. Nice idea, I think it would be even better to have the extruder directly on the printer :-P
  8. Did you maybe change the minimal layer time? This slows down your print speed on parts of the model with small cross sections (like the top of a dome). It might heat up the plastic too much creating the defects you describe.
  9. Hi, I have also done some work on finding optimal settings. My method was not yet described on the forum, so I made this post describing the steps. http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/5093-how-to-setup-print-speed-temperature-and-layer-height/ Hope it is usefull
  10. If you want to learn how to print different types of plastics, just read this:http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/5093-how-to-setup-print-speed-temperature-and-layer-height/ Let me know if you find it useful.
  11. Hi, if you want to learb how to set up your printer take a look over here:http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/5093-how-to-setup-print-speed-temperature-and-layer-height/ Let me know if it is useful for you.
  12. How about a soldering iron remelting the pla from the inside?
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