banooch

No, I didn't use either of the betas. I just upgraded from Cura 14.1 I think.

Yes, Yosemite 10.10.2 However, if you define a base folder then it works fine. This just may turn into a support issue for new users and upgraders.

Same issue happens with me if no base folder is defined ahead of time. I'm not really into the replication idea for the files either, so that feature is kind of working against my traditional workflow at this point.

Anyone have a good way of separating that white plastic clip at the end of the fan wires? It's like I need mouse fingers to do it. On another note, if I clip the wires, do I have to solder them together or can I just twist them and enclose them with a shrink wrap rubber sleeve?

Unscrew the 4 top bolts on the head of the unit. The rest of the head should hang on with the cable connections. Just spin the head around and you will see two hex screws holding the fan on. You may even be able to reach them without unscrewing the top bolts.

Use hairspray. Apply it on pretty thick, like glue. Works better when it is not all the way heated up.

I've been printing with ABS really well, better than with PLA in fact. Just using the default temperatures. However, my best advice is to put down a heavy load of hairspray on the bed before it heats up. In fact, I have found the ABS to stick better when the hairspray is scratched up a little.

netsrac- Is this the fan you found on Amazon? http://amzn.com/B004XCWXW4 Also, here is what my fan sounds like. My iPhone mic does not pick it up that well, but I can assure you that it's pretty loud. Registering over 60dB according to Decibel 10th app that I use on iPhone:

Forgot to update this thread. I dismantled the entire fan shroud. The PLA was entirely caked on over just about everything. It took a while to heat up and scrape everything away, having to do it with a flathead screwdriver so I didn't burn myself. There is still some PLA in some nooks and crannies, but most everything is out. Anyway, the UM2 is working so much better now and that area has not gotten filled with plastic again. It was definitely affecting my prints before I cleaned the area out. I suspect that the bowden tube had come off from the nozzle at one point and PLA leaked through somehow. Now off to fix my extrusion problems with iRobertl's fixes. Printer has been working great except for these issues.

Cool. I'll try it out, thanks gr5!

I have a bunch of PLA that has built-up in the housing next to the nozzle. I'm not really sure when or how this happened. Could there be a hole in the nozzle? Anyone know how to get this out? I can print right now, but I'm not sure if it's creating an extrusion problem. Banooch

Oh that picture is a great find. I had printed the cylinder myself and had the same problem as the pic at 70-degrees. Is it just me or does the 50-degree temp look the best as it has the least amount of warping at the bottom? Also, newb question here: do I need to press tune every time to adjust the hardware settings, or does the UM2 retain the settings from the last print, or do I just use the Tweak at Z plugin every time?

I'm actually in San Jose, CA. Born in NYC though, so a fan of NY teams… thus the Yankee hat on my avatar! Have not made it to any 3D trade shows or fairs yet. Will try to get to one out here soon.

Thanks so much for the clear instructions! I finally was able to get the PLA out, but only after removing both ends of the bowden tube. The feeder had crushed the PLA so much that it actually kept the PLA from coming out of the top hole of the feeder, no matter how hard I pulled on it. It wouldn't work in reverse either to get it out. I'll probably make a short video tutorial for other beginners so they can reference it. I imagine that this happens more often than not to people, especially with bad extrusions.

OK, I can now confirm due to impatience that taking apart the feeder is NOT a good option EVER. Seriously, you need like 3-4 hands to put that thing back together. Although I did get lucky with just my two. OK, now I have to try the bowden tube method except that gr5 scared me with the "blades" comment. Seriously, does anyone have pics or video of doing this routine?

Oh man, this is making me nervous since I'm a newb. Does anyone know of a video or set of pictures that shows how to do that?

My UM2 stopped feeding PLA through the nozzle. I tried to use the "change material" function on the printer to see if something was clogged. Right away I could tell that the feeder had ground up the PLA and none of the PLA would move in or out of the feeder, even with the feeder moving to help my efforts. I'm looking in the manual under troubleshooting and it says "Release the pressure on the feeder a bit by adjusting the build plate screw clockwise." I'm not exactly sure how twisting the build plate screw helps since it's not connected to the feeder helps, but I tried anyway and it did not loosen the PLA. Can anyone give me some advice on how I should be opening up the material feeder to get the PLA out?

Ordered it and got it from MakerShed in 3 days. Yeah, price was a bit hefty compared to what they had it for before, but happy to get my hands on the Ultimaker 2 finally.

Ultimaker 2 is my first 3D machine and looking forward to figuring out the tricks of good prints. I'm a total newb to 3D printing and happy to admit it. Is there a good guide anyone can recommend to get up to speed with all the tips and tricks, like glass temp/ nozzle temp settings, speed of print, quality setting differences, etc? Been cruising the forums for these answers and the info has been hit and miss. So far, I've concluded that hair spray is way better than the glue stick so far and that I will not get rich printing stuff out and selling it right from the machine (Prints take a long time!!!) Banooch

Just got Ultimaker 2 and my startup fan is at about 65 dB. Screws are not loose, the sound is a bit annoying when you are sitting next to the machine. I'm not even sure why the fan has to be on until the machine is printing, or the nozzle needs to cool down. Don't want to use grease, wouldn't white lithium be a better solution to use?