UM2
Firstly do not enable cooling fans! Unless well away from the area that is likely to lift.
Use 85-90C hot bed do not cool at any print level
I had long piece (just fits diagonally) with fans the end lifted and even material delaminated. With no cooling fans managed to print ok.
The piece had reasonable contact area so no point with raft
skirt is one thin layer and no way will hold down material once it starts to cool (see bed levelling below).
If you print a long tall item then put a 2 to 3 layer lily pad at the ends - needed this to print a star the points (little surface contact area) always lifted - lily pads of 3 layers (0.08mm) of 20mm dia. at each point worked and were easily removed.
Use water to make smooth watery paste of remaining glue on bed spread as evenly as possible just before "print" selected. As plate warms this will dry, then add a single layer of staples glue stick (Pritt is not as good) this needs to be even and seems best applied quickly and evenly with the plate above 70°C, patching missed areas just piles up the glue and so is best avoid.
need an option in skirt to select more layers.
Levelling the bed.
There seems no feedback/reference for the z-stepper. Kept getting differing initial thickness at each print (from head on plate with little or no extrusion to thickness that just does not stick.
so new method is to level as normal but then when printing begins with brim or skirt adjust the 3 screws to get even thin (just about transparent thickness) need plenty of lines in the skirt to ensure level but seems to work
Now if I could only stop the base plate ringing like a bell producing undulating extrusion thickness that would be good! Really do need 3 coupled worm drives!
Mike