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gregwar

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Everything posted by gregwar

  1. I can also do a Qt+OpenGL based frontend The biggest problem with command line is dealing with parts orientation Actually, I've already did something similar in Plater (https://github.com/robotswar/plater)
  2. Hello, Recently I've been working on laser cutting machines, with a 3D background I like to design parts and do assemblies using softwares like OpenSCAD or Autodesk This is why I wrote Projekt, a software based on CuraEngine to get the slices of your part and export it as DXF: https://github.com/Rhoban/Projekt You can also use it to generate multiple gravures level, it will uses polygon differences with the previous layer Don't know wether there is already softwares that do this kind of thing I may create a gui for this some day (maybe this could be an output option for Cura). Hope this helps!
  3. Ok, but don't you think that 9.2a is short anyway?
  4. You mean that each motor is 2W or so? That sounds really low
  5. Hello, Let's do some simple sum: 1) The Hot bed is 3.3 Ohm at 24V, it's like 7.2A heating 2) The nozzle is like 24Ohm, let's say 1A heating 3) Steppers are configured to ~1.3A, there is 4 of them (XYZE) 4) (not even considering fans, leds and electronics) This reach a total of 7.2+1+1.3*4 = 13.4A, for a 9.2A PSU This is like, underdimensioned right?
  6. Hello, Is the feeder of the UM2+ available as an upgrade for the UM2?
  7. OK, And the solution is just re-heating the solder on the bed side?
  8. In this case it would just not heat, right? Why would it shut down? Moreover, is 3.3ohms right?
  9. Ok but, there is a lot of things working with AC that I feel safe with Think of your boiler, hairdrier (/hot gun), soldering irons which are almost like a nozzle or electric radiators which are almost like a heated bed... There is also hot glue gun, which is basically like an extruder, no expansive DC psu with this Don't think military US want all that to go <30V :-)
  10. The machine is approx 1.5 2 years old It worked before What else do you think it could be?
  11. Maybe this is a stupid question, but why getting a 250w DC power supply when a thyristor based device could use AC (with solid state relays?) to achieve this? I mean, 75% of the UM2 power goes to the bed and nozzle heating, right? And a 30$ low cost oven can reach 250°C and is like 1/3 the price of just the UM2 PSU
  12. Hello, It looks like my machine (Ultimaker2) shuts off when I tries to heat the bed, as in the following video: The oscilloscope is showing the input voltage which drops to 20V just before the printer restarts. When it is not connected, the machine doesn't shuts off, and I can clearly see the heater bed connectors going from 0 to 24V. Note that I can heat the nozzle without any issue. What can be the cause of this? Any Idea? I've also measured my hot bed resistor which is 3.3Ohms, is that normal? That would mean that 7A should be consumed by the bed to heat? It sounds a lot, knowing that the power supply is only 10A. Additional info: the power supply blue led light is lower when the problem happens, can be its fault? EDIT: I'm trying to print with cold bed, seems to works so far, I think the problem is the power supply I've ordered a 720W (24V/30A) PSU from eBay to try replacing it
  13. Indeed, my digital says M3x3, ebay got it
  14. Hello, The headless screw of the drive gear on my UM2 is damaged What should I buy? (What is the spec or recommended spare part?) Thanks
  15. What about the "1500mA" mod? (M907 E1500) Looks it improve the extrusion for me, but is it really a good thing to put in all prints?
  16. My extruder is *not* blocked, everything works, but if I print too "fast" (layers of 0.2, 50mm/s) the extruder fails tu push the filament and the part is underextruded I've already tried a lot of pressure, filaments, etc. And I think this is not a matter of tuning If other UM2 users can print 0.2 layers @50mm/s without any underextrusion problem, there is an issue with my hardware. Else, maybe it is a more generalized problem in the design of the printer (maybe the NEMA17 that pushes the filament is simply undersized)
  17. Can YOU block the filament with your thumb? (or does it hurts before it slips) A small correction: the problem is not really "slipping", but is that the NEMA17 is unable to push the filament. Don't know the exact word for that
  18. Here's a picture of my extruder+feeder, if you can see anything wrong: Also note I've added connectors (JST-BEC) on my extruder wires, but I had problem before doing that.
  19. Actually, the block 4 screws were loosened before the video (to try), but it is normally correctly assembled What do you call "strong"? Here's what happen: If the pressure is low on the filament (the screw of the feeder drive the white+spring+bearing system totally up), and if I place my thumb at the end of the tube, there is no slipping but the filament doesn't come out. I guess it actually slips against the driver If the pressure is a little higher (the screw is a little more turned) and I place my thumb at the end of the tube, I can it make it slips easily (it doesn't even hurts) I imagine this is too weak, isn't it? What can be the problem so? Feeder? Nema17? Power supply? (Note I'm not affraid disassembling the feeder or so, already done it several times)
  20. It doesn't seems to help Here's what happens:
  21. My Cura setting are right (0.4 nozzle)
  22. I think too. I'll change my Hot end and my Bowden, maybe this will make the difference, but I don't think so... I really don't understand what's going wrong. Is it really a problem with the feeder? Can you confirm me that if you put PLA in your printer and let it extrude (during the last step of Material->Change) it doesn't slip?
  23. This test is not really clear, the filament melt easier at 240 than 180 but the difference is not that simple Another test would be how many time it takes to reach temperatures, seems we have the same power supply I guess it should be quite similar, isn't it? My times (from "cold" to ...): 180: 52" 200: 1' 220: 1'10" 240: 1'19" Edit: I set the target temperature to 260 and noted the time to reach the above temperatures PS: My thermistor definitely doesn't seems good:
  24. I am currently trying to print @260°C, it seems that there is no slipping Maybe my temperature is not correctly measured? How can I check?
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