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leoddc

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Posts posted by leoddc

  1. Hey. So I'm trying to remove the nozzle on my UM2. I was half way through unscrewing the long skinny screw that holds the nozzle to the head and the screwdriver chewed threw the head of the screw. Now the heater is loose and I cant continue to unscrew to remove the nozzle or screw it back together. I have no idea how I'm going to fix this. Any help would be very much appreciated

     

  2. Thanks man. Ha I guess Zbrush does look a little crazy there but that's a custom interface. I basically set it up so I have all the tools and menus I use out for quick access. It really helps with keeping the creative sculpting flowing. I also change the colour scheme quite a lot as it helps keep things fresh. I find it funny when people say that they find Zbrush complicated because it was the first 3D software that I learned but I can see that if you come from a traditional 3D software its interface is probably really off putting.

     

  3. I've been having some real problems with blockages in the nozzle but I seem to have the printer going again. I think the main culprit is the cheep white PLA. Although it has a superior finish compared with other brands that I have used there does seem to be one drawback. It tends to grind up in the feeder mechanism more than other PLA. I believe it was the dust from the white PLA getting ground up in the feeder that has been causing the blockages. I tried printing Batman 4 times in the white material and each time the print failed due to blockage after about 15-20 hours. After declogging and cleaning a few times I decided to switch to colorfabb blue/grey and try again. This time I printed smaller at 16 hours as I just wanted to get this done. Print came out great and I printed another one strait after with no problems.

    Here are some pics. Once I've taken some better pictures I will upload this guy to thingiverse so you guys can all have a go at printing him.

    14082821629_5d3883c519_h.jpg14289648203_32e0968e5e_h.jpg14269474005_b7d7640d53_h.jpg14082826478_5118797231_h.jpg14269054604_fee05eb4ab_b.jpg14082817459_dd151f319a_h.jpg

    The chin will require a bit of clean up and I just bought a mini rotary tool so I'm looking forward to that.

    14246357006_fbca517058_h.jpg

     

  4. Hey guys!

    Here's a little video showing up the squeaking noise,

    If I just help it a bit by pulling on the filament to loose the reel, it fix the issue for a lil while. But then as soon as it get tight again, the squeaking is back again and It's really annoying on long prints.

    http://instagram.com/p/oV5UrpOfJ7/

     

    I had that exact same noise especially on retractions and it seemed to go whenever I loosened the filament or moved the spool a bit on the spool holder. I've had my printer for about 4 weeks now and I doesn't seem to happen any more. Maybe it's just a case of wearing the printer in a bit. Great looking model by the way. Ellie from the "last of us" right? Love that game.

     

  5. Hey, sorry to ask so much question, Seems like my extruder is doing a very screeching, squeaking noise, I'm pretty sure it wasn't doing that sound before.

    WHat could be causing this, is there something I can do?

    Should I stop the print I am doing?

     

    It might be the filament tightening on the reel at the back of the printer. Dont worry it's quite normal. Just try loosening/unwinding the filament form the spool a little bit and see if that helps.

     

  6. @braddock: Thanks mate. I took the thing apart last night and cleared the blockage. Got it back together and so far it seems to be printing well for the last 10 hours :D. Fingers crossed.

    @mariem: I had the same problem with the progress bar in Cura. I think its maybe a bug with the most resent version. Try installing 14.01 and you should find it works much better. Also as Didier said you can use layer mode in Cura to check over hangs.

    You can see in the picture below that the chin is going to need supports because of the horizontal angle.

    14239737211_282274a387_b.jpg

    Also you need to watch out for under hangs as well. The image below shows the same model tilted forward slightly. Because of the angle there is now an under hang at the chin. As each layer is printed the tip of the chin appears as an island away from the rest of the model and will result in a spaghetti like mess.

    14056396899_f5753e06b3_b.jpg

    For supports I use mesh mixer And then improve them in Zbrush. You can also make supports in Zbrush with Zspheres

     

     

  7. LeoDCC: Thanks for testing the plastic types, had a generic plastic sample from iMakr I think it's the same generic one you used but in light blue. It has a nice translucency when held close to a light. It also had a cleaner surface.

    Cool work on your blog, would be nice to see how your Lunch Time alien would look like printed.

     

    Thanks man, really glad you like it. I'm actually thinking about printing that guy. I really like your Slithe bust by the way, really nicely sculpted.

     

    Awww no way Leo, that's a shame mate, was looking pretty sweet too! Your profile pic says it all.

     

    Lol, yep the picture just about sums it up.

    @Nicolinux: Thanks for the info mate

    @Nateokane: Lol. It sucks but I'm sure you're right I'll get it fixed soon. Nice camera mount by the way. Does it work on a UM 2?

    @Chrisp: Thanks man. By the way that dremle station is looking bad ass.

    @Ian: cool looking mechanical prints. I definitely want to try some funtional designs.

    @mariem: Awesome. Cant wait to see some of your characters come to life.

    @braddock: Thanks for the info dude. I'm a bit nervous about taking this thing appart but I geuss I'm going to have to get used to it. Do you know of any visual guids on how to do this because I tend to make a mess of this kind of thing.

    @Martin Bienz: Cool lego figures, I'm sure the kids'l love em.

    @Didier: Nice prints mate. I really like that bright green stuff you were using.

    @JonnyBischof: I've been interested in using XT. Does it have any bad fumes like ABS or is it more like PLA?

     

  8. @LeoDDC - That looks like it's going to be a nice print. What do you plan on doing with it?

     

    Cheers. Just doing it for fun.

    I had a problem with the bowden tube moving around but fixed it. Then I had a problem with the print because of some internal overhangs so I changed how I was going to print the model to avoid this. I finally started printing and it was looking good until about 15 hours in I noticed some massive under extrusion. Unfortunately I had to abort the print. Now it barely extrudes any material at all. I think there is probably a blockage it the nozzle but I don't know how to fix it. I've tried several material changes and I've tried heating the nozzle up to 260C as per the trouble shooting instructions but nothing seems to work. :(

    14042240317_b88977661c_b.jpg14042199550_79b1a3b2a4_b.jpg

    This blue brim was printed at 260C.

    14228811365_2af4a22bdc_b.jpg

     

  9. @Chrisp: That looks cool. I might have to try some of that PLA out.

    @Dreamworker: Cheers man. Unfortunately I had to abort the print after about 12 ours as there was a problem with some internal overhangs not printing leaving some holes in the face. Not to worry though I have changed how I'm going to print the model and I'm now re-printing. Fingers crossed.

     

  10. Cool thane model. How did you go about getting it out of the game? Never thought of doing that, really cool idea.

    So I've had a bit of a problem with my printer the last couple of days. At first I thought it was a blocked nozzle but it turns out it was the bowden tube at the hot end coming loose and moving about during retractions. Its fixed now and whats really cool is I printed a new bowden clip to fix the problem! How cool is that :grin: a printer printing parts to fix it's self!

    Any way now I'm back up and running I need a bit of help with the keys for my Batman bust. The problem I'm having is that the female key is getting a lot of stringing going on inside it because the printer will sometimes go right across the hole instead of seeing it as a boundary that shouldn't be crossed. Is there any way to get Cura to avoid any travel over this area?

    The print on the left shows where the printer travels over the hole.

    14019915470_f3538c536e_c.jpg

     

  11. Awesome!! It totally worked. I didn't even need to loosen the screws on the printer head, I just pushed the tube down, pulled up the white ring and fitted a thicker bowden clip. No movement at all now. I also leveled the build plate for good measure. Printing great so far. Fingers crossed it stays that way :)

     

  12. Thanks for the info gr5. I re-leveled the bed a couple of times earlyer today just in case. The prints start off ok but as soon as there is a retraction the tube moves quite a bit and thats when the problem starts. I've also noticed that I have those bulging/mushroom shapes at the end of the filament when I do a filament change. When I get home tonight I'll try a print with retraction turned off and see how it looks and then I'll go about fastening the tube. I'll check back here tomorrow with an update.

     

  13. Thanks for the replys. Illuminarti I've just been reading that thread, very helpful. I'm sure that the movement in the tube is whats causing my problem.

    So let me check that I got this right... I need to remove the little blue clip, loosen the four big screws at the top of the printer head, push the bowden tube down into the white tefflon fitting while lifting the white ring (the one that the clip sits under) tighten the four big screws back up while still keeping the tube pushed down and then replace the blue clip with this one I downloaded from youmagine.https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-extruder-mutli-clip

    dose that sound about right?

    I'm about half way through an 11 hour shift at the moment and I cant wait to get home and try to fix this

     

  14. Hi. I've been experiencing some under extrusion problems lately and I think it might be down to the bowden tube. I have noticed that the bowden tube moves up and down a few mm where it connects to the printer head especially when a retraction occurs. I have tried reattaching the clip but it doesn't seem to help fasten the tube. In the image below you can see the under extrusion problem. If you look at the print on the right you can see where I have manually held the bowden tube in place and produced better results (the smoother area).

    14194830972_99cc5aaf83_h.jpg

    I think if I can get the tube to stay put it will fix the problem but I just cant seem to get the clip to keep it in place.

    Any help would be much appreciated.

     

  15. @Skint: thanks man. PS now working on the hulk too.

    @braddock: Thanks mate, now going to watch the video. I think I'll definitely cut the model up. The only thing that worrys me is that I'll get that layered/wood grain effect on his face.

    The ears should be ok, the only reason they didn't print was due to a blockage in the nozzle. When I saw the printer head moving and nothing coming out I panicked but after a quick brows on the forums I realized what the problem was and fixed it. Gotta love this community man :D

     

  16. So here's the next character I'm going to do. I originally made this guy to try some realistic skin rendering in vray but I figured he'd make a cool bust as well. I just wanted to do a small test to see what areas would require supports, where would I need to enhance detail etc. Obviously the chin will need support. I'm wondering if I should slice his face off and print separately to avoid using supports. Mr braddock you seem to be experienced in these matters. How would you proceed?

    13998441199_f79ce9d82c_b.jpg

    13998524520_e289f1d7b2_o.jpg

     

  17. @braddock: I got it when I bought my printer from the imakr store. http://www.imakr.com/product/view/pla-3mm-filament

    It did't have a brand or lable on other than heat setting and diameter.

    @Osgar: Settings were 0.1 layer height, 35mm/sec, 0% infill, 197C. I actually didn't mean to print it at 0.1 layer height but it seems to have turned out ok. I also had one support for the nose as the tip is at a negative angle from the rest of the body.

    I cant wait for the dual extruder to be released, so excited about soluble support structures.

     

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