dieselpower

So we also need a "just remove filament" option?

I've also have a MK8 laying around for that purpose, nice to hear that works

Would be nice if we could cool the complete print head system, as there is a known problem when using dual extruders.

Indeed, so every form of cooling, would be rather inefficient.... So maybe a (stainless)steel + aluminium heatsink replacement? Somebody ever tried a full aluminium version? An anodized finish will add around 4 - 8% to the overall cooling effect using forced air

Wouldn't it be better to only cool the PTFE part? You want to keep your heat in the nozzle, just not in the PTFE cold part of your extruder. What about a aluminium heatsink or water cooling jacket around a PTFE lining/fitting?

Think it's one of the best hotends on the market. I'm just not that keen on modifying a brand new UM2 -_-

What if you would use a lined aluminium piece with cooling fins (like the E3D hotend) http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6

https://www.youmagine.com/designs/alternative-um2-feeder-version-two The Famous Robert UM2 feeder :mrgreen: Still need to finish mine :oops:

Well... there's lots of them to be honest for example; https://www.youmagine.com/designs/thelong-plunge

Default is set to 3000mm/sec I believe. But I still have some ghosting at the moment, so I maybe reducing that.

My UM2 went on a trip to france.... :???:

Already have an Idea, for multiple sizes and up to 2 syringes (2 component resins maybe?) Pretty simple; 2 linear guide rods + bearing, a lead screw + nut and a stepper motor for mechanical parts. Rest could be printed. We just need to ad an auxiliary plug to an 4 pole double throw switch, so you can choose the original extruder, or the aux. output But... there's probably already a few out there?

You could make this yourself, not that difficult; Looks like they just use a stepper driver actuator emptying a syringe. Could be made in a nice Youmagine (collab) project :mrgreen:

I used them in my RC models, never had a problem with them. Also take a look at the XT60 connectors, I've upgraded to those, Deans are a pita to solder and use.

I know it's not much, but it looks a bit messy, would be nice if you could adjust it to filament needs :wink:

it looks that priming got a lot more aggressive on my UM2. Would be nice if you could adjust these parameters in the menu, without changing the firmware manually. I get the stepper skipping and a lot more unnecessary wasted filament at the moment

After 12+ years of Solidworks, I've had to change to Inventor, also due to a change in job position. For me Solidworks is still my favorite. Too many issues and crashes with Inventor, and solidworks feels more powerful. Haven't tried Fusion 360 yet.

Did you check you housing? http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/6050-um2-housing/&do=findComment&comment=55672%C2%A0 I've got some bed leveling issues too, due to that I think

Maybe it's a recent problem, I just received mine about a week ago. Wonder if there're more UM2's with this problem. Well that was my thought too, CNC machined parts shouldn't deviate that much. That's why I think it's an assembly problem, although I've not measured the panels yet. And it doesn't seem to be a shipping accident. Even with all the bolts loosened, putting a lot of weight on there, there's no movement at all. But all in all it would mean that the imaginary plane the linear guides are in is a bit twisted

Well like I said, a little wouldn't bother me, but 3mm is a lot for linear guides etc,

Glad it works, was curious what the problem was after you left chat

Trespa or HPL is made from paper or wood fibers and epoxy or phenolic resin, cured at high pressure and temperature. A bit like pertinax/tufnol Dibond core material is is commonly LDPE, should be good material to work with

My Ultimaker Housing isn't aligned properly, one of the feet is 3mm of the table. At fist I thought it was the table, but turned out it's UM2 itself. Wouldn't be bothered if it was just a little bit but 3mm seems quite a lot, and once completely lowered, the bed rests on one side of the bottom of the housing. I tried to loosen the bolts and realign the plates that make up the housing but no succes so far, as they seem to be interlocked pretty strong. What's the best plan? Take off the sides completely?

I just found out my printer is bit wobbly, because the housing plates aren't correctly aligned. Thought my table was twisted, but on close inspection, my printer is just standing on 3 legs :???: Acceleration is 3000mm/s which most have as I've read it

Yeah, well the spacers came out tapered for me. Maybe I'll try them again, or make them out of some aluminium.