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Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts


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  1. Yeah MCOR have been around for quite a long time, and seem to spend quite a bit of time, effort and money on marketing. When you get hands on with their prints though there kind of 'meh' in terms of surface quality. The colour is nice as far as it goes, but the sort of fluffy edges you get when the cutter head is going blunt or you've used cheaper or thicker paper make it blurry on faces not flat to the build. The price point is quite high compared to a consumer level machine, around $40,000 ish last time I found a public figure, and consumable use is also high (glue, ink, cutter head - with
  2. Hi R4ix, sorry I've only just seen this, in answer to the question, no I'm not and if I where then I'd be very clear about it as that'd be a bit weird otherwise. Compliments related to the printing are based on the results of a large number of hours of printing with it compared to a similar amount with the original head (mount changed back and forth a few times to see if i could fit bigger fans on it). That said its not a scientific study. I like it, in comparison to what I've experienced previously and have said so - but obviously that's a subjective opinion which can differ from person to p
  3. hi, in answer to those: Its the bowden v6 RaiX's I'm using the E3D block, heather and temp sensor - fans are the 30mm that comes with the kit and a pair of 40mm from maplin's bargain bucket (they have blue LEDs - oooh shiny) - I did try to make the large 50mm work but there wasn't a good way to make it fit without sacrificing a fair bit of build volume PLA primarily Haha yes the retraction setting are the bit that requires fiddling with - it very much depends on the plastic/temperature and ranges from -40% to +20% of the default settings
  4. Hi All, With the kind assistance of Sanjay and and his Colleges at E3D I've had a v6 hotend running on my UM:O for a few months and its now hit the 1000 hour mark. In this time, no clogs, jams or other horribleness has occurred and prints are faster (head is lighter so I can run the machine at a higher speed with less backlash at the end of a move). Overall I've seen around a 15% improvement in the running of the machine, in terms of both the speedy printing, no jams and having the confidence to leave it running long builds un-observed. With the quantity I print this makes a huge difference
  5. Hi all, I've been printing quite allot of largish (30 - 40) hour builds for use in education. Infill seems to be eating quite allot of time/material in the build process. Is there a method to create a more adaptive infill? At the moment I've experimented with using Maya to generate a series of gradually enlarging cells (dense at surface, less so at core), and this helps a bit but is horribly laborious. Currently for very large objects I'm printing them hollow and manually adding internal buttressing/columns to support overhangs/ceilings and limiting warping (again this is partially via a s
  6. Having to run several UM:O's and 2's in a college/educational setting - manual calibration is a bit of a drain on time, auto-levelling will probably save a good hour or so a day overall.
  7. I'd like to know what you think of it once you've used it a bit.
  8. I snapped my bowden clip during assembly - Ultimaker have been great about getting a replacement out to me, and the machine (UM:Original) functions. First print off was the more robust bowden tube holder here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:17027 - you will want to counter sink the extruder side of this otherwise feeding the plastic in is fiddly and its easy to gouge the filament in the process. There are a number of refined versions of this so have a dig around. Down side is if the hot end clogs horror results rather than the bowden clip popping off. It'd be good if the extruder assembl
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