Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited


Community Reputation

0 Neutral
  1. Yeah MCOR have been around for quite a long time, and seem to spend quite a bit of time, effort and money on marketing. When you get hands on with their prints though there kind of 'meh' in terms of surface quality. The colour is nice as far as it goes, but the sort of fluffy edges you get when the cutter head is going blunt or you've used cheaper or thicker paper make it blurry on faces not flat to the build. The price point is quite high compared to a consumer level machine, around $40,000 ish last time I found a public figure, and consumable use is also high (glue, ink, cutter head - with the cutter being quite pricey and needing changing frequently). If it where a consumer level machine (< $2000) then it'd be a very interesting solution - but as it is the cheaper Ob-jets are a better bet more most applications and are roughly comparable in price. If someone where to develop at that price point then I'd guess there would be alot of interest. Probably the best thing about it in terms of running compared to FDM is the lack of fumes, low heat and its not to noisy (similar to a laser printer). The parts feel a bit like MDF that's been cnc routered, and they are pretty tough! If you want to see one in the UK they show up at pretty much every trade event, TCT being the prime example.
  2. Hi R4ix, sorry I've only just seen this, in answer to the question, no I'm not and if I where then I'd be very clear about it as that'd be a bit weird otherwise. Compliments related to the printing are based on the results of a large number of hours of printing with it compared to a similar amount with the original head (mount changed back and forth a few times to see if i could fit bigger fans on it). That said its not a scientific study. I like it, in comparison to what I've experienced previously and have said so - but obviously that's a subjective opinion which can differ from person to person. Equally the customer service bit is based on the experience of it, and this was good to - and as this is something I value highly in companies, mostly as its less common in the UK than could be hoped, I thought I'd comment on my opinion of it as well. Hahaha on re-reading the original post it does sound a bit like a hammy work placement student has tried to write an advert, I think my cheese filter must have been set to off ! However, cheddar aside, I think it reflects the concerns I had going into fitting the thing - "will it work, oh god there's soldering and firmware updates argh!" and so on. It was really good that none of those thing turned out to be horribly difficult. TBH if i though the head only matched the UM:O i'd probably still go for it as its not very pricey especially compared to the UM official gear - delivery is a pain! This might be a really dumb question but you mentioned going from ABS to PLA and having clogging issues - is it purging completely - have you tried doing this with the isolator fan off to allow it to clear residue that is normally outside the melt zone? I'm mostly using faberdashery and UM plastic so I've not had to much of an issue with inconsistent diameter to deal with - is the clog/jam defiantly occurring in the hot end? Sorry if that's a bit teaching grandmother to suck eggs, I'm just thinking through the things I'd check if I where having a similar issue.
  3. hi, in answer to those: Its the bowden v6 RaiX's I'm using the E3D block, heather and temp sensor - fans are the 30mm that comes with the kit and a pair of 40mm from maplin's bargain bucket (they have blue LEDs - oooh shiny) - I did try to make the large 50mm work but there wasn't a good way to make it fit without sacrificing a fair bit of build volume PLA primarily Haha yes the retraction setting are the bit that requires fiddling with - it very much depends on the plastic/temperature and ranges from -40% to +20% of the default settings
  4. Hi All, With the kind assistance of Sanjay and and his Colleges at E3D I've had a v6 hotend running on my UM:O for a few months and its now hit the 1000 hour mark. In this time, no clogs, jams or other horribleness has occurred and prints are faster (head is lighter so I can run the machine at a higher speed with less backlash at the end of a move). Overall I've seen around a 15% improvement in the running of the machine, in terms of both the speedy printing, no jams and having the confidence to leave it running long builds un-observed. With the quantity I print this makes a huge difference! If your considering your first upgrade this is a very good place to start, not challenging to fit and producing an excellent final result. If your using the original heater block and electronics then this is a very very easy mod to fit. If changing to the supplied electronics then this will probably take you a few hours to fit, solder and update the firmware to recognise the change, you will probably find your head reaches its running temperature slightly more rapidly, and the overall weight of your hot end assembly will be slightly lighter - and for a heavier user this increment may be very desirable. Either way if your a newer user or a grizzly veteran, seriously consider this as an option, especially as its about the price of eating out once or twice! It also helps that the E3D crew have excellent customer service, and that's not just the harribo talking!
  5. Hi all, I've been printing quite allot of largish (30 - 40) hour builds for use in education. Infill seems to be eating quite allot of time/material in the build process. Is there a method to create a more adaptive infill? At the moment I've experimented with using Maya to generate a series of gradually enlarging cells (dense at surface, less so at core), and this helps a bit but is horribly laborious. Currently for very large objects I'm printing them hollow and manually adding internal buttressing/columns to support overhangs/ceilings and limiting warping (again this is partially via a script in maya). Any thoughts on generating infill with http://www.plunk.org/~hatch/HyperbolicTesselations/ as I dimly remember them being discussed on a reprap forum several years ago for very similar reasons? Although generating something like this, especially for a gribbly object, may well increase slice time quite dramatically if overall print time/material use is reduced then it might be worthwhile?
  6. Having to run several UM:O's and 2's in a college/educational setting - manual calibration is a bit of a drain on time, auto-levelling will probably save a good hour or so a day overall.
  7. I'd like to know what you think of it once you've used it a bit.
  8. I snapped my bowden clip during assembly - Ultimaker have been great about getting a replacement out to me, and the machine (UM:Original) functions. First print off was the more robust bowden tube holder here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:17027 - you will want to counter sink the extruder side of this otherwise feeding the plastic in is fiddly and its easy to gouge the filament in the process. There are a number of refined versions of this so have a dig around. Down side is if the hot end clogs horror results rather than the bowden clip popping off. It'd be good if the extruder assembly mounted a force sensor to try and detect gratuitous jams ("danger Will Robinson, danger!").
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to the Ultimaker Community of 3D printing experts. Visit the following links to read more about our Terms of Use or our Privacy Policy. Thank you!