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martin-bienz

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Posts posted by martin-bienz

    Who offers Ultimaker 3D printer for good price for young designer start-up?

    in Buying or selling your UltiMaker

    Posted

     

    I've got nothing against the UMO+ but at 1650,- the UM2 is a pretty good deal, and vs the 1445,- of the UMO+ it's only 14% more ....

     

    where are you shopping?

    UMO+ is 995USD

    UM2+ is 2,499USD

    that is a 151% more

    if you're paying that much for a UMO+ you should find a new store.

     

    Well... yes, distributors make it interesting. In Europe: Germany, igo3d, UMO+ (incl. UltiC) 1.429,00 €. Italy (3ditalyshop, i guess UltiC included): 1195.00 €, Switzerland, digitec.ch 1499 CHF est. 1370.00 €... and so on...

    I am really surprised that it's relatively inexpensive in the USA?

    Help with STL model needed

    in Improve your 3D prints

    Posted

    Maybe one of the "Fix Horrible A-B" boxes it ticked in the expert menu ?

     

    I don't think this will actually do what he wants, as it will probably just close the hole, as netfabb did... worth a try...

    Maybe it's even easier to re-create the thing in the application of choice. It does not look to complex...? Especially if you have the measurements, it might be better.

    Cura doesn´t show first layers (1 to n) and/or complete model of a gcode file

    in UltiMaker Cura

    Posted

    @Beierxxx, I tried loading a gcode file today for the first time :). It's the same here in 15.04.03.

    I created an gcode file with cura, saved the gcode file and re-openede it. It's supressing the bottom shell (in my case 8 layers + skirt) in the view.

    What's clear, it can not show you the model in normal mode / solid view, as there is no model loaded, what you see is "just" a graphical representation of the gcode path.

    Question, why are you loading the gcode file and not the stl? As the gcode file can not be mofified / saved with cura AFAIK.

    UM2 eating up PTFE couplers

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    I think this was also the problem on my UMO, after changing the bowden tube and relaxing / adjusting the force (bowden pushing down and the peek pushin up) to be just right, I feel I have a smoother system. Since then I did at least not have any grinded couplers anymore.

    • Like 1

    MXL vs. GT2 - print results

    in Third party products & modifications

    Posted · Edited by Guest

    Yes, it is quite difficult to get the bushing out without damaging the blocks. On the other hand, I don't think you will ever want go back to the wooden blocks after using printed ones :p

     

    that's also true, I will rip them appart and re-do the whole thing... but not this week anymore... I have enough of pully fixing :)

    MXL vs. GT2 - print results

    in Third party products & modifications

    Posted

    To come back on the measurements, you want your belts exactly above/under the axes (at least with the chopmeister's blocks).

    So I don't see how you would come with completely other numbers, unless you have other blocks, or put your pulleys the other way around (which is probably what Pinguinblend did)

     

    @amedee, the measurements are spot on, I installed everything inc. chopmeisters blocks, new short and long GT2 belts, pulleys and spacers + caps (plush new bushings). Great and thanks again!

    All fits perfectly, BUT the new bushings I got from robottdigg... 2 are good, the other 2 not so much (shame I have not tested this before... ) so I am to replace all robottdig bushings with my old UM bushings (wanted to avoid that to keep the wooden blocks intact). Grr.... I mean it prints perfectly, but I can hardly move the head by hand... so I guess the motors have a bit more work at the moment.

    • Like 1

    Extruder 1 port on UMO+ board makes motor just shake

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    my best guess is the stepper driver, either too much or too less current, as gr5 also suggests. As you have an UMO+ I think you have a "white" control board, right? So there are no trim pots for the current per motor. You must check it in the firmware (but you resetted, right?). Anyway, check under Maintanenace, Advanced, Motion, Current E or something like that. Should be around 1250 / 1300 (mA) try to lower it or increase it (to max 1500 mA) if this is even possible. (I don't have an UMO+, so no white electronics board, maybe someone can correct me if wrong?) Also I think you can set it with M907 for all axes (so for instance M907 E1200 should be 1200 mA on E (Extruder). Hope that's right.

    If you can, swap motors and check again (so you have eliminated either the board, motor).

    Hoep that helps...

    • Like 1

    Extruder 1 port on UMO+ board makes motor just shake

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    Hi jambalyle, have you checked the cables as gr5 suggested?

    Also, you can leave pronterface connected to your machine no problem, send M302 and then use the UltiController to advance some filament. Should work, so no need to heat up first.

    Strange, might be a feed rate issue / too much current when feed rate is higher? I don't know what the standard feed rate of the extruder (marlin / ulticontroller) is but I guess it is something like 200? More?

    Can you try G1 E100 F200 in pronterface? (wheras F200 is the speed in mm/m) and then go up? maybe double and see if you can reproduce the issue with pronterface? Maybe if you speed up, the motor draws to much?

    • Like 1

    MXL vs. GT2 - print results

    in Third party products & modifications

    Posted

    thank you! ... that's exactly where I am coming from. I thought, perfect, I print them the same as you did and then there was this post from @Pinguinblend, with differnt measurements...:

     

    Installed it yesterday, works perfect! :D

    5a330f3078845_2015-07-0111_36_32.thumb.jpg.be7a98d1be5cf2feda1844522e0edb7d.jpg

    dimensions of my spacers:

    back 29mm

    sides 19mm

    front 10mm

     

    but ok, I will just print it with your measurements and see if I can install it all together. Worstcase I need to install the standard wooden - endcaps again and print new spacers... I guess :) So I will print:

    back: 2x35mm

    front: 2x14mm

    right: 2x19mm

    left: 2x19mm

    correct? I will need to verify this when I am back home...

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