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martin-bienz

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Everything posted by martin-bienz

  1. ok. Are those your first prints? It looks like underextrusion. Have you tried PLA after the ABS again? So you know that you print PLA at around 205, 210 and ABS at around 230>? Also, try not to print to fast just to make sure. When switching filaments (ABS, PLA and back), make sure that you try to clear out any residue of the previously printed filament by using the atomic pull method or at least by extruding the new filament until you get a clean feed of the new filament. When switching to ABS from PLA make sure the rest of PLA is not for too long in the hot nozzle as PLA could burn completly and block then nozzle, so perform the switch rather quick. Also of course residues of ABS will only be swept out of the nozzle when using 230 first while feeding PLA manually. Until the switch is complete and then immediately reduce the temperature. How does your PLA filament look like after the print, do you see any strange grinding marks on the part that went trough the feeder? Or are the marks almost not visible? Could be an indication for the underextrusion. EDIT: Sorry, I just saw that you are using the quick - print settings... so my comments are still valid but you can not see the temperature in CURA which I guess you are using?
  2. Hi Rerurax, welcome ! A little bit more information would really help (e.g. Ultimaker Version, Settings for the 2 Prints, like speed, temperature etc.). Was ABS printed first, then PLA?
  3. @Dim3nsioneer, nein, sehe ich nicht, oder noch nicht. Das hat aber auch damit zu tun, dass ich erst 3 Prints gemacht habe und auch nur "kleine"... Ich hatte aber mit meinem alten sowieso langsam Probleme. Darum habe ich mich entschieden den eh zu tauschen und das Konzept mit dem neuen Bondtech (quick release) hat mich überzeugt. Vorher Nachher wird etwas schwierig , evtl. mache ich mal noch einen dual feeder aus meinem UM, aber im moment eher nicht. Die Resultate sind auf jeden FAll sehr gut, so wie ich es mir vom UM gewohnt bin, also sicher nicht schlechter. Jetzt muss ich mal noch NinjaFlex testen, dann gibt es wieder feedback (das ist dann wohl ein echter Test).
  4. Übrigens, wenn du den low friction spool holder von lroberti meinst, dann entweder 626 bearings, lager oder 608. Ich habe es mit m8 / 608 gemacht (skateboard kugellager). Zum bondtech qr 3 kann ich nach 3 drucken nur sagen, ZIEMLICH GUT. Allerdings ja erst drei, nicht allzulange Drucke und noch kein filament wechsel (also auch nur pla). Allerdings häufen sich im moment die positiven Rückmeldungen. Ok?
  5. Hallo charger01, hast du in cura das pause at height plugin aktiviert? Oder bearbeitest du den code in irgend einer form noch nach dem slicen? Könntest du mal ein kleines stl als gcode (gesliced) hochladen, dann könnte man es sich mal anschauen. Grüsse, Martin
  6. IRobertI, not the only one man! I can also say that I don't like the 3D stuff in the cinemas... makes me feel uncomfortalbe (can't really explain it).
  7. Hallo Zusammen ich habe den QR3.0 Universal gestern bekommen und Heute installiert (aber an einem UM1!) die E Steps eingestellt, gemessen und justiert und einen Druck gemacht. Funktioniert tadellos. Siehe Bilder (ich habe einen custom sidemount, aber ich habe es getestet, er passt auch am original "port". Das einzige, der Stecker am UM Board war ein anderer. Ich hab den Stecker also von meinem alten Motor genommen und umgelötet... kein Problem. Filament laden, wie gewohnt (für UM1 User soweiso), quick release lösen und bis zum Anschlag reinschieben. Ein paar Bilder: Grüsse Martin
  8. @cloakfiend, your project is really cool, so much love / detail that went into it. Fantastic! How much amps are required to run all the leds?
  9. Thanks Didier, yes of course! I forgott to mention that. ... and btw: here is my fanduct design if someone is interested: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/umo-fanduct-for-3dsolex-and-e3d-nozzles
  10. It is a few weeks now that I have modified my UMO setup to print with a 3dSolex (0.4) nozzle (and E3D nozzles) and I wanted to share my findings here so that it might help others with an "old" printer . Background I wanted to change my system to a universal nozzle system so I looked at the options and decided not to replace the complete hotend but rather only replace the nozzle, as I only print PLA (and some XT, NinjaFlex). I specifically wanted to try bigger prints with larger nozzle diameters (like 0.60mm and 0.80mm) and that is a no go with the standard UM nozzles. First idea (obvious) was E3D as they have good quality nozzles for an ok price (even steel). At the same time I had a chat with @dim3nsioneer as we are practically neighbours and he recommend the jet nozzle from 3dSolex (buy them here if you are in Switzerland: http://dim3nsions.ch/) for the UM2 but I figured it would work for the UMO. So I got one 3dSolex 0.4, jet nozzle and started the installation. I also ordered e3d nozzles (buy here: http://e3d-online.com/Extra-Nozzles), the fun pack, which contains 0.25mm, 0.30mm, 0.35mm, 0.40mm, 0.60mm, 0.80mm and an E3D Nozzle Spanner. Installation First I measured the length of the nozzle(s) and compared it to the one from Ultimaker (3dSolex and E3D are very similar). The ultimaker nozzle is a bit longer (est. 3.5 mm) so my existing fan shroud (that I printed also) would hit the bed. So I decided to create a new one from scratch and print it with colorfab XT. Designed it in Fusion 360 (I based the design on the one great shroud from from Gijs https://www.thingiverse.com/Gijs/designs) and printed it before changing the nozzle. After that the installation was really straight forward. You heat up, change the fan shroud, unscrew your old nozzle and screwed in the nozzle from 3dSolex. Of course I then had to re-level the bed but that was it. Compatibility After a few tests, I tried to replace the 3dSolex nozzle with a now arrived 0.6 e3d I had and voilà, no problem, I did not even had to re-level the bed. Now I have a "universal" setup that allows for quick change of nozzles. The UMO nozzle will of course not work anymore as it is longer, at least not as a drop in. Printing When I started printing with the nozzle from 3dSolex at first I could not really tell the difference, it was only after a few prints I started to realise that I could in general print with lower temperatures, and even lower my retraction amount a bit due to that the surface quality together with my Diamond Age filament is really great. When I compared the E3D nozzle and the 3dSolex nozzle (both 0.4) I could tell that with the e3d nozzle, the filament tends to curl upwards, not with the 3dsolex design. Maybe that is because of the angle of the lower part of the nozzle? Else, they are very similar to print with… more later. Final thoughts It is pretty easy to replace a nozzle with the UMO. Both will work, e3d and 3dSolex but you have to replace your fan shroud and so going back to the UMO nozzle is not easy (but no problem for me). So for me, I have a new standard nozzle I print with: the 0.4 jet nozzle, from 3dSolex. When I require larger diameters, I simply switch to an E3D. Hope that helps you guys.
  11. I would not say that, but thanks... That's actually a great idea to have an extension for the sd card reader slot. Let me think about that.
  12. Hi @Neotko thanks. I allready have one of those (I forgot to mention that, that's right) and I now how to change marlin to make it work (amedee's firmaware buider is fantastic btw, thanks for that!). I bought the full graphic smart lcd controller for another project... small cnc mill. But I actually like the "small" footprint of the original UltiController... so if it's doable, I would like to fix it / replace it (also would like to keep my case ). I might just desolder the SD card slot and replace it... Best Regards Martin
  13. Hello EverybodyMy UltiController has a broken SD Card slot. If you slide in the card, it pops right out again (so it's not locking in place). I have that issue since quite some time now and my solution until now was, that I created my own ulticontroller case with a sd lock slider . Have a look:I allways thought that on my next order for a teflon piece I will order a new board (or maybe fix it with a new sd card "holder").My questions: Anyone with the same problem? Did you replace the SD Card slot or bought a new UltiController board? Where to buy only the board (igo3d OR ultimaker store has only the kit). other ideas? out of context: how do I add a before and after thumbnails? Thanks.Martin
  14. Hi Guys, long time no post. Really amazing things printed in the meantime! A little sneak peak of my latest Fusion 360 design result, my own version of the EggBot Pro from the evil mad scientist labs (props to the engineers there!). I like that little machine so much, I just had to create one by myself. From pictures online and some videos I "copied" the machine. I then added custom electronics, motors, screws etc. as you can see and vioila, a fully functioning eggbot. By the way, the white cups for the egg / pingpong ball are printed with Ninjaflex. The whole construction probalby takes about 24 h - 32 h to print and countless hours of testing and tweaking etc. The construct is less stable than I imagined. even printing everything at 50% infill and 3 shells. But it does the job quite nicely. The software that runs on the arduino is EggDuino by cocktailyogi (thingiverse). Really cool, emulates beeing an EggBot so you can directly print from inkscape.... I try to post more in the coming days (also on youmagine) IF I get the ok from guys at evil mad scientist. BTW: The custom arduino is connected to the computer via bluetooth module (HC-05)... I just thought an upgrade to the standard USB / Serial would be cool.
  15. In general, the fusion 360 channel is pretty good: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCiMwMz3RMbW5mbx0iDcRQ2g They have multiple playlists to choose from, go with the "Fusion 360 Training" to start with... should be doable also for 45 and up as they are normaly just below 15 mins or shorter.
  16. Hi Luke Hard to answer it in one go, i'll try: - the face that is touching the buildplate is printed on the glass surface, right? So it would be rather glossy and smooth anyway? - you would print it standing up or design it that way that it still has a flat bottom to be placed on the bed. - can't really comment on ABS as I only print PLA but I guess heated bed and gluestik / brim would def. help and also preventing the model from warping - Look at the instructions for the fairphone cases (Ultimaker specific) and also the models on their website, that will give you a great first look at how it's done efficiently. You can donwload and print them no problem (after finetuning the settings as described) http://shop.fairphone.com/zubehor/3d-printed-cases/community4-1-1.html I hope that will get you started.
  17. Fusion 360 Design history is indeed one really cool feature. Going back in the history and just changing that whole diameter is priceless. An additional thing to mention about Fusion 360 is it's import capabilites if you are coming from a program like 123D Design or similar beginner type software. Also, all your designs are stored in the cloud BUT you can also work offline... so not much worry with regards to data loss. I am 39 . In general I think with each piece of fairly complex software (like inventor, F360 and the others) you will require a few iterations of designs. So, you design a few things and you get better and better... with each try. So my recommendation is pick one and stick to it at least in the beginning. Only my thoughts... coming from 123D Design, and have had some limited history with 2D and 3D Design.
  18. @shurik, that's cool. How did you fit the magnets? Glued or stopped the print and inserted?
  19. ...and bye the way. You don't HAVE to select new body / solid! You can also do it in Merge mode. But I seem to remember that you need to do it for each face seperatly... not sure. But anyway, also with this method, it will be rather hard with complex shapes...
  20. Hi Danny sure, If you look at the picture I posted, when you extrude for the second time, check the little box beside the degrees (-25° in my case). If you click that, while extruding, you can select to create an extrusion that: Merges (default), subtracts, intersects OR that would Create a new body. select that and then turn the degrees modifier. Get it? Sort of hard to explain without the tool... Martin
  21. Hi DannyT ... there is also another option in 123d Design that might help you. 1. extrude the text as normal. 2. with the top face selected extrude again, choose to create a new body and you will have a round modifier, drag handler that can be used to adjust the angle of the extrusion (taper). Attached a picture of what I mean: 3. set desired angle and press enter This method also keeps your taper seperate os you could delete it and start over. Remark, this is certainly pretty easy to do in BLENDER. It's a rather complex BUT free tool and you can do just about anything with it... Best Regards Martin
  22. Hi DannyT I could recommend 123D Design from Autodesk. It's pretty easy to use and free software. In it's newest form, you can extrude any Text rather easy and then add a bevel / chamfer on the top. But this does not allow for simply importing images. It requires either a path (svg) or a proper font. Also chamfering the top of complex shapes is not allways easy with 123d Design but I am sure you would get there... Maybe someone else, easier process? Martin
  23. Merci...et aussi le serveur openvpn exist pour raspberry pi...bonne chance.
  24. Bonjour, excusez mon français, normalement je parle allemand. Je ne propose pas de simplement ouvrir les ports octoprint pour l’accès par internet. Ca va ok, mais ce n’est pas exactement sécure. Aussi pas avec le login octoprint… mes deux centime. Si tu as un Router internet configurable, i’ll faut faire une « port forwarding » sur le port et ip de ton Rasppberry pi et octoprint (c’est mieux je pense si c’est pas 80). Ci tu après tu connecte sur ton ip internet et port xx c’est tous envoyé à ton Raspberry pi. Pourrais-je proposer à installer un serveur (soft) VPN? Si par exemple tu a une NAS c'est vraiment simple et il faut seulement ouvrir la ip adresse du NAS (security). Le serveur OpenVPN on pourrais aussi avoir pour Raspian. Apres c'est tellement simple, tu fais une connection du internet avec un client VPN (ca existe pour Android, IOS etc.) et après to est comme à la maison, e sécure. Déjà fait avec un NAS Qnap (openvpn).
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