martin-bienz

Correct, Laser exists as an upgrade. Was an indiegogo deal. Nice guy. Delivered fast and as promised. I think you can still get it here:http://robots-everywhere.com/re_site/purchase/l-cheapo/. But I would like to see a bit more form UM if it would be that... like a very modular print head / head with multiple attachements. Easy to expand, enhance / control. Thinking change from direct drive to bowden. Change to pen, laser, cnc (3d?) Mill. Whatever... maybe with coil, magnets and a parking system... i would love that.

... hmm. Good point. Yes, maybe something into the direction of smoothieboard / pannel like? Maybe with included wireless capabilites (think octoprint but integrated)? That would allready be "pretty awesome". I am also thinking fast change / switching tool heads (eg. laser cutter, pens, etc.). Sounds familiar ? For the UM and the UM2!

Thanks @SandervG, yes, Ninjaflex is really cool. I love the touch and feel. I also printet one of the small waving octopus with 10% infill. Really squishy and great to touch. Would you mind showing your watch? I love watches... In general, yes, not easy to print at all with a bowden based system. For me those things helped (I have a lot of those points from the forum!): Rather high temperature, especially for the first few layers (245) When changing to Ninjaflex, or any other Flex, make sure you extrude a bit more in the begining up to the point where the print starts, keeps the flow, minimised the underextrusion in the begining slow printing of course 25 mm/s did the job for me unroll the spool before you start printing, reduce the stress on the extruder / flow of filament extruded don't abort prints early, take yourself some time, see how things evolve (normaly flow will get better after the first few layers if you have not had a good flow in the beginning) if you feel after a few layers, there is still some underextrusion, tighten the extruder, as it's flexible, I am not worried about grinding, just make sure it moves fwd! try again No Oils / wd40 etc. for me Might be easier to print with SemiFlex (as stiffer) but was not able to test it out.

Multicolor Printer! just like a HP DeskJet but cooler and of course in 3D and open source and sold as a kit. Cheap. *wishfull thinking*

The "Print Section" is actually quite good. I also think that we should further use this thread as a general Discussion platform. Would be nice if we could easy link to the print item in the galery, no? Maybe I missed that, but can you not direclty link to pictures in the Print section but only to pictures from your Gallery? Would be cool if we would be only required to have ONE Gallery not Gallery AND Print (I hope you get it). Anyway Pictures of my grips for my youngest son printed in Blue NinjaFlex: and the link to the Print.

Hi UM-Family:), some good news, I was able to finaly reset my password yesterday night so I can login again with my "old" account. I hope this is true for others also? @dim3nsioneer, @theguyknownasandersolsson? @Daid, brave move. I seriously hope that initiates changes (top down) as forseen.

Stefan that's actually a pretty good hint. I was using a tiny bit of wd40 in the tube, but only once... could it be that the oil is actually eating the teflon? I don't think so... but hey... I have another theory. It's maybe to much force pressing the teflon piece together and then slowly carving it away... next time I open my hot end I will check. Martin

Hi Guys have fun in New York!! Great Announcements! I was very busy at work in the last few weeks, so no much posting from me. But of course, allways following at least this post. FANTASTIC TALENT, GREAT PRINTs, GREAT JOB! Lego Starwars is sooooo hip at the moment, so I "had" to create something for my kids. Darth Vader's light saber "replica". Designed in 123D Design (Desktop) and printed on my UM1 in est. 14 Hours. 10 different pieces, 15 in total if you count all the black handle / grip pieces. Settings: 1.5 Layer height, 0.8 shell, 50 mm/s. All for my two kids (3 and 5). If you press the button, 2 led's will light up inside (powered with a recharchable 9V battery. It will nicely illuminate the transparent red "beam" (better if it's dark of course). The top part of the blade slides out and holds due to the friction between the 2 parts. All screws together. HAPPY PRINTING!

Hey Ina, thanks for your reply. I fixed my issue with the replacement of the white teflon part (for now). I hope that your modifications / re-assembly will help. Regards Martin

Sehr cool!

Thanks! hreedijk!

dito, Jonny, auch für mich im Moment eher nix. Ich wäre aber bereit "aufzufüllen" wenn's noch ein paar rollen braucht. :-P

Hi All I thought to be smart the first time after I installed the my custom HBK and in Cura selected the option to install the “custom hbk firmware” (so I thought) that came with Cura 14.06. Ups. After initially showing the bed temperature etc. it shows a strange error message (MAXTEMP / Error, can't remember) on the UltiController and then hangs! So clearly the wrong firmware. No more connection anymore via computer / usb. Panic (a bit)! Also after restart, the UM hangs at the same point. Solution that worked for me (vs pulling your Arduino): disconnect your USB Cable, turn the UM off In Cura click "install default firmaware..." so the dialog appears "Please connect..." and only then connect the usb cable to the Arduino. As soon as the Arduino starts powered by USB (probably before initialising), it starts the firmware update from the computer after the update you should be ready to flash any other / custom firmware Hope that helps at least some of you with similar issues. Martin

I would also go for way below 150°. In my case I would even go to 100° that's plenty hot still. Or even lower as I am not planing to print ABS (but maybe XT @ 70-80 I think). I will probably go for 1 as (not beeing toooo paranoid) I really don't want the bed to rheat up again after the bi-metal thermostat cools down and re-enables the current. Yesterday I found a source but had no time to look at details yet: http://www.setfuse.com/product/over-temperature-protection/thermal-cutofftco/radial-shape/st-series.html Could this be the way to go ? Also, still remains how to mount it to the underside of the bed. Any ideas? Probably hot glue is not the way to go. I WILL GO FOR 3. IF Jonny designs the circuit! :mrgreen:

@tsp42 hmmmm...could be a good solution. Very easy and cost effective. Could be mounted to the underside of the alloy bed? How? Also I guess the R is very low to 0 / so no waste of energy. Could be just in series to the load. Don't see a problem. I don't like that it's single use (but I guess not really a problem as it would only trigger when something goes really wrong).

@polar, exactly my situation. What I did to counter that: - Installed a "main" switch that cuts the wall power and has also a fuse. I only power it if I require it. - as you could read in my experiance, my relay got messed up. I replaced it with a MosFET. To be honest, I have no clue what happens if a MosFet blows (open or closed) but I guess it can be both. Thermal switch / fuse is a good idea. I will also look into that.

@IRobertI, really good! Meshmixer expert. Are those standard settings? What's the material?

Very cool prints again! Attached an update to my loose filament spool / holder. It's now updated on https://www.youmagine.com/designs/loose-filament-holder-v3! yeah my 1st public design! and available for download. I had to strenghten the arms a bit (thanks to Dim3nsioneer), make the main part and the cap longer / higher (thanks Skodiar) and in general worked on the tolerances. I printed it know myself again and I think it turned out well. Could still use some tweaking here and there... hope you like it. I also tried to create a little step by step on how it works / assembles: Print 4 arms, 1 main, 1 inner, one screw on cap: put loose filament on table, main in the middle and start to slide in the arms: insert inner (align with the cut outs).. ...and press down: screw on the cap (tight): insert the beginning of the spool into the filament holders holes and bend it a bit: attach to UM1 or UM2 (should work also) and start printing: happy printing guys! Martin

I did install / modify the existing board. Added the voltage divider and the mosfet, switched to ground switching, tested, works. Back to printing warm. I still wonder a bit why I did not install the MosFET from the begining. Thank you everybody for your help.

thanks anon 4321, I will go with Jonny's solution for now, as I think I can modify the existing board without to much pain and without much cost. SSR only if everything else fails...

Thanks. I will order one. Then I will need to see how I can modify the board to get it going. It looks pretty similar to your setup but I will need to verify that. Also I will need to switch to GND switching vs. V+. Would you say that 200W are overpowered for the solution? Should I replace the PSU with a 120W or similar? Will the MosFET be (to) hot at 200W (event it has a very low resistance)? Sorry... long time no electronics (analog at least)....

...and this is how an UM print brought Belgium into the quarter Final! Congrats! (and no mascot for Switzerland they are out!). Good luck against Argentina!

... just a quick update on my Jason_HK HBK installation. The Relais is dead (the one on the board supplied with the kit), probably burnt it's contacts together (how do you say that in proper english?). I do not want to cause any panic but that drove my HB to over 110°. Luckily I constantly monitored the print and was able to pull the plug. I also use the PSU that came with the kit and regulated it as far down as I could (20V, that's probably still 10 AMPs). Will now replace the relais with either a solid state, stronger car relais or a MosFET.... :-| probalby MosFET. JonnyBischof has a nice diagram in one of his posts so I will try to modify the existing board to fit a MosFET. @JonnyBischof, would you be so kind to suggest a MosFET (Switzerland)... I think the one in your schematics is obsolete?

Thanks guys. Tommyph1208, can you add a picture of yours?