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martin-bienz

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Everything posted by martin-bienz

  1. I would start with something, as gr5 and Tommyp1208 say, with something that has a real purpose. Something easy to draw and also someting that users can relate to. I like the knob idea of gr5, as this is really something usefull and I did that before a few times. The knob needs to fit a real world object, so the designer needs to measure first and then reproduce it / parts of it in cad. It will open many good discussions about tolerances for instance. they will find out they will need to make holes a bit larger depending on the inteded fit etc.. The knob is rather easy to model, I guess really good as a starting point. Also maybe I could suggest a "bag tag" of some sort. Everybody can customize with their name in various fonts etc.and it's rather fast printed and easy. I guess from the first print on it's probalby up to the individual allready... there will be the artists and the industrial designers... some for sure want to design cases and the others probably more organic stuff? Up to them to find out if they want to use blender or 123 design / tinkercad.
  2. Thanks Dim3nsioneer. I already use the clip. I was realy careful this time re-asembling the bowden tube, pressing it well into the teflon piece so I could avoid gaps.... did not really change anything. With regards to the feeling of things, I think I slowly get paranoid while inserting filament probalby feeling every little hickup! :???: I never even payed attention to this before.... so I can not say if something changed / is different. I also believe that it's either the bowden tube or the teflon coupler. I will ask the ultimaker-team to send replacements. I will report back on progress here.
  3. ok. I tried a few things. First, I removed the bowden tube for visual inspection. It's hard to say but I think she's ok. Not day 1 but ok. I feel nevertheless a slight friction at points when I load Filament (but this could be the curled Filament, right?). But I can for sure feel the part where the filament leaves the bowden tube and enters the white coupler. Can you? I also printed again, I do not think it's the nozzle. I printed a small Robot even with retraction on (4,5 just to test) and it printed fine, even great. Then I started a bigger print and I had to stop after 30 sec because the Extrusion stopped and bowden tube started to lift from the feeder side. Could be that retracting makes it worse because it gives it even more chance to hang at that slight imperfection in the tube / coupler once the filament is "warm"? In Addition I guess when the head moves backward the bowden is pressed forward slightly, that would also add to the friction and be enough to stop extrusion? I tried to simulate extruding by it hand / ulticontroler but could not reproduce it. Interesting, no! I will keep on printing and see if I can find out more..
  4. Good Settings then :cool: ! Great suggestion with moving the printhead while inserting Filament, will try later tonight or tomorrow and Report back. I measured the Filament both are ok. (between 2.82 and 2.92). I Need to say I never had issues before and I still use the same spools as previously.Feeder screw is ok (I also tested various Settings there).
  5. Thank you Dim3nsioneer for answering. (so many swiss I realise) Various different Settings, and different Filament from different manufacturers. All PLA, the White you see is from Swiss RepRap (or german). The blue (translucent) and red are from Ultimaker (but same effects). I printed with 0.1 layer height, 0.8 Shell and 0.8 bottom and top thickness. Print Speed was 50 mm/s (retraction 0, as I thought it might not help in my case). Temp was 210. Flow 100%, 2.85 Filament. My plan: - replace the bowden tube + the cupler (maybe also the nozzle) and see if that changes anything, what do you think?
  6. Dear All I cleaned everything again, changed filament, again. At least (without retraction) I was able to print 3 pieces (rather long prints). While cleaning and taking everything appart I found that when I load filament into the bowden tube, that when I push it until it reaches the hot end isolator coupler, there is a small, but notable, hickup. it's like a small step. All components still look ok, at least visualy, not compressed, damaged or anything. So I re-assembled, printed and hmmmm... strange things happening. The underextrusion is only happening (mostly) at the back of the print (looking from the front of the UM). Like on the heads way back it sort of compresses the bowden tube and that then ist enough to stall the flow? See the pictures attached: Anybody had that before? Thanks and I wish you all a great weekend! Martin
  7. GREAT, a submarine! I would help with that! (with electronics ?) Extruder also.
  8. Dear Jason HK, This Looks great! I just tried to order a kit. It seems you are sold out (or maybe there is another link)? Are you planing to order another Batch from the factory anytime soon? Thanks Martin
  9. Hallo Zusammen ich habe auch beides schon probiert, mit Erfolg, wie von ulbie beschrieben (auch UM1). Was ich zusätzlich schon mal gemacht habe, anstelle von Pause, ist dass ich zwei / drei kleine Stücke Filament in die bowden tupe eingeführt habe und mit der "Hauptfarbe" dann via feeder reingedrückt und gedruckt (ohne verschweisen). Das ergibt einen schönen Regenboden Effekt, allerdings wohl nur praktikabel bei kleinen Prints. Auch muss man drauf achten, dass die Schnittstellen sauber sind und hoffen dass nichts passiert. Am Ergebnis habe ich keine Unterschiede festgestellt. Ich würde aber schon die Verschweisen-Methode empfehlen. Man kann die Übergänge theoretisch sogar ziemlich genau berechnen / im gcode nachschauen. In Cura's Layeransicht den Layer für den Farbwechsel aussuchen (z.B. 205) und dann im gcode nach diesem layer (-1, da gcode bei 0 beginnt) suchen (;LAYER:205). Beim nächsten Kommando steht dann die bis anhin extrudierte Länge in mm drin. Habe ich von hier: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4535-calculating-required-filament-in-layers-view/ Martin
  10. Dear All printing is back to normal for me. Quality is great again on my UM1. The nozzle cleaning process worked (one of my spare resistors saved me, the leads were exactly 0.4 in diameter)! thanks and happy printing, Martin UPDATE : NOT REALLY, after one sucessfull print, back to the same Problem. Will probably be required to replace the nozzle?! I am out of options... any ideas? My prints look exatcly like the ones ina posted. Sometimes better (even great) and then again totaly messed up.
  11. Hi All I seem to have the same issue as Ina described. My pictures of my prints look almost identical (sometimes, it appears random to me and is not that bad). I printed VERY well for the last year but now it slowly starts to degrade. All of a sudden, like last week, i got the MAX_TEMP... ERROR and I was able to trace it back to the thermocouple cable going from the amplifier board to the UM electronics board (slack Joint). So I just simply replaced it with the "spare" cable. But the Problems are not gone... probably still a slack Joint somewhere? I will Monitor the Temperatur as Jonny suggests and also, just to be sure, clean the nozzle (everything else I have done in the meantime, belts, screws, extrudes the right amount etc.) Ina, were you able to fix the Problem with drilling out the nozzle? In my case I think it might also be a nozzle issue, I seem to remember that I printed with laywood before it started to get worse... Best Regards Martin UPDATE: Currently printing with octoprint. Temperature is extremly stable... UPDATE2: Just tried to clean the nozzle and restartet a 5 h print. let's see.
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