Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts
  • Sign Up


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by fbrc8-erin

  1. I usually recommend belt replacement based on the following criteria: * 3000-4000 print hours * build up of black dust behind the short belts/on top of the motor * visual quality issues (like the above photo) * considerably louder (belts that are past their prime can sound like railroad tracks) Like Gr5 said...I've known UM2/UM2+ machines to run 20k print hours as long as you replace soft wear and tear parts. I'd also add bowden tubes to the list of parts you might want to replace periodically, but odds are, if you aren't seeing issues with yours, it's probably okay. Check the feeder end of the bowden tube for wear and tear; if it's getting bad it will look "chewed up". Occasionally I see wear and tear on the interior of the tube with certain materials.
  2. If that's your first layer, the sound could be related to the Z-motor making tiny moves on the active leveling. Does the sound still occur on later layers? To isolate the noise/determine whether it might be belt or bearing related: Remove your printhead from the printer and set it aside (you can set it on the table still attached by the bowden tube and printhead cable). Then move the sliding blocks by hand and listen to the belts. If there don't seem to be any abnormal noises, next check the printhead bearings. To check those independently, you'll want to slide your printhead shaft through the printhead by hand (still not attached to the belts). If it feels or sounds like going over railroad tracks that's generally an indication that it's the bearing. As Gr5 mentioned we do assemble the machines here in the US, and I stock most replacement parts (bearings and belts are both up at fbrc8.com). If you want to put in an official support ticket with my team and include you're serial number and troubleshooting information we can check on your warranty for you.
  3. Heater errors do shut down the heater. A heater error on your Print Core will flag as ER31. If the fan isn't running, it will be more likely to present as a taking too long to heat error because it will not reach the cool down before the next heat phase on a duel extrusion print. Ultimaker definitely does not want your house to catch fire.
  4. If the front fan isn't spinning the fan needs to be cleaned or replaced. It's really, really critical to the work flow that the fan be kept in good repair. The fan should be on whenever either print core is at 50 C or hotter. Here's the guide for the front fan checks.
  5. Is the front fan on your printhead running? You can get heat issues/delays if it's not running since it's intended to keep the upper part of the Print Cores cool. Have you power cycled the material station since the firmware update to make sure everything took?
  6. Can you elaborate on what you mean about a cleaning process failure? Are you having issues with the Print Core cleaning in the menu? Or something else?
  7. Can you clarify what you mean about calibrating the printhead? Are you looking to check the alignment of your axles and check for play? I've got a guide here. Bowden tube and couplers are the top things I usually replace. With that much runtime on the belts though, you may want to replace those as well. I usually find they need it between about 3k and 4k print hours depending on the printing environment. I've got a guide for that here. If you're seeing a lot of black dust building up on top of your XY motors or the belts have gotten noisy, it's time to replace them.
  8. Download your log files to USB and send them to @ctbeke or upload them in this thread.
  9. The wires are permanently attached to the motor. If you want to take the motor out, you'll need to unplug it from the main board. That said, I usually leave the motor in the printer when cleaning the Z-screw unless it's got a lot of debris in it or there was some sort of accident (like broken glass).
  10. Generally if it's not making contact with the glass, it's usually an electrical issue--damage to the white and red cable, an issue with the printhead PCB, or very occasionally an electrical issue with the print core (I've only seen that once or twice; in one case I believe one of the cables on the print core was visibly damaged). If the printer is consistently working with all of the Print Cores except for this one, then I would agree the issue seems to be the Print Core.
  11. It should be towards the front, but if you have questions on a repair you're working through with support, I definitely recommend asking questions on the support ticket to make sure you're getting official answers.
  12. Looking at the photo...that's a lot of glue and it doesn't look very even. My first recommendation (aside from re-leveling the bed as has been mentioned) would be to take a wet paper towel to your bed. You do want to use glue--but only use a thin layer so there's no clumps. I like to put a few swipes with the glue stick and then use a wet paper towel to thin it out to a thin almost invisible layer. If they're clumps, your filament is going to catch on it.
  13. It might just be a heat sink issues, but it's also possible hardware damage, so you're definitely safer using an external heat source. Good luck!
  14. Do you have a heat gun or soldering iron you can apply to the plastic? At best, all the filament around your printhead is acting as a heat sink and and causing the error; at worst your heater and/or temperature sensor may be damaged (I'm not familiar with the Tevo) and the error is there to make sure you don't have thermal runaway. Best bet is to apply an external heat source and pull material away with pliers or similar.
  15. It's not possible to turn off the bed leveling on the S3; the UM3/UM3X can turn it off, but not the S5 or S3. Is your lifting switch functioning properly? If it's missing the lift switch and the wrong Print Core is down you could get active leveling errors. What about the red and white cable inside the printhead, seated in the metal bracket at the bottom of the printhead? If those cables are unseated your active leveling will fail.
  16. I confirmed with a couple colleagues just to be sure, but it doesn't look like that should be any part of an S5, so your printer should be all right.
  17. That is definitely not any part of your printhead. Is it possible it's from some other equipment nearby?
  18. What model machine do you have? I don't recognize that part at all.
  19. It should definitely be doable. With the S5, that back piece of plastic lifts straight up on off instead of backwards as in my video.
  20. The process is definitely very similar between the two models. The biggest difference is going to be that your printhead cable clips into the back of your PCB on the S5/S3, but on the front of the PCB on the UM3/UM3X. Also, depending on the age of your UM3/UM3X, the back piece of the cover may lift off backwards instead of up as it does on the S5/S3/later UM3/UM3X.
  21. If your fans buzz briefly, then your main electronics board is getting power. That means the issue is most likely at the wifi board or Olimex. Since you've already tried booting up without the wifi board, my best guess would be that the Olimex board is failing. You could try re-imaging it, but given that it's not stuck on the Ultimaker logo screen at this point, I'm more inclined to think it's a hardware issue rather than a firmware one.
  22. The procedure should definitely also work on your UM2. The sliding block set up is essentially the same on all the UM2/UM3/S series machines, just with different belt lengths.
  • Create New...