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fbrc8-erin

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Everything posted by fbrc8-erin

  1. Try unplugging your black and white front fan and running active leveling with it unplugged. If there's damage to that cable it will cause electrical interference. If it works with that unplugged, you need a new front fan.
  2. The red and white cables both need to be seated firmly in the metal bracket or it won't work. They plug into the metal bracket at one end, and the printhead PCB on the back of the printer at the other.
  3. Open your printhead and check out the red and white cables that plug into the metal bracket. If either is severed, damaged, or not connected, the printer won't realize the nozzle and bed have made contact.
  4. There's a couple of things to check to start--during the active leveling process is your second Print Core moving up and down with the lift switch as it should? If it doesn't you will get an active leveling error. The other thing is to check your manual leveling--if the build plate is too high it will error out as well. You want the heated metal plate to be about level with the center lip on the base plate; I have photos and a video here.
  5. To print with the Material Station, you really need a profile for that specific material since the profile controls the cleaning process at the end of the print to make sure that the nozzle is clear and ready for whatever your next material is. If it didn't do the cleaning, and you printed ABS and then tried to print PLA, you'd have under extrusion issues; this process in the firmware/material profile takes care of that. Ultimaker is adding more profiles for the Material Station as the filament manufacturers in the Material Alliance make them available. Other factors related to Mat
  6. Is your rear fan running? Filament will swell and fail to extrude if it's not running.
  7. @rmd6502 how many print hours are on your machine? Have you replaced any of the soft parts (bowden tube, TFM coupler). This looks more like an extrusion issue than an alignment one. Wear on the spacers could happen--mostly due to heat--but it's uncommon since the spacers aren't particularly close to the bed.
  8. Glad to help. Could you post a video of the noise you're hearing? You could get a noise if the pulleys aren't flush to the wall--it would make the rod slide back and forward.
  9. The guide bars aren't too bad--a little finicky. They are held in place with the set screws on the pulleys, so if you loosen those, you can pull the guide bars out. I've got instructions here on removing and reinstalling the belts. Make sure all the pulleys and spacers are in the right spots when you reassemble the belts onto the rods.
  10. I can't say I've ever tried to put an Olsson ruby on a UMO+. I do remember someone purchasing a steel nozzle from me (with threading intended for the Olsson block) that he planned to install on a UMO+. He did mention having to make adjustments for the threading, but when I checked back with him, he said it worked. You definitely want to make sure the 2 threaded parts are tight against each other to prevent leakage.
  11. Thanks for thinking of me, but unfortunately I'm all out at the moment.
  12. If the block blocks don't fit tight in your printhead shafts...they may need to be replaced. The plastic can get soft if there's too much enclosed heat. The front/back blocks are going to get impacted by this before the left/right ones due to the orientation (the front/back pair have the opening closer to the bed, plus gravity is worse on those since it's an upside down U to hold the printhead shaft). I recommend replacing the block halves/sliding block set.
  13. I usually recommend belt replacement based on the following criteria: * 3000-4000 print hours * build up of black dust behind the short belts/on top of the motor * visual quality issues (like the above photo) * considerably louder (belts that are past their prime can sound like railroad tracks) Like Gr5 said...I've known UM2/UM2+ machines to run 20k print hours as long as you replace soft wear and tear parts. I'd also add bowden tubes to the list of parts you might want to replace periodically, but odds are, if you aren't seeing issues with yours, it's probably okay. Check the
  14. If that's your first layer, the sound could be related to the Z-motor making tiny moves on the active leveling. Does the sound still occur on later layers? To isolate the noise/determine whether it might be belt or bearing related: Remove your printhead from the printer and set it aside (you can set it on the table still attached by the bowden tube and printhead cable). Then move the sliding blocks by hand and listen to the belts. If there don't seem to be any abnormal noises, next check the printhead bearings. To check those independently, you'll want to sl
  15. Heater errors do shut down the heater. A heater error on your Print Core will flag as ER31. If the fan isn't running, it will be more likely to present as a taking too long to heat error because it will not reach the cool down before the next heat phase on a duel extrusion print. Ultimaker definitely does not want your house to catch fire.
  16. If the front fan isn't spinning the fan needs to be cleaned or replaced. It's really, really critical to the work flow that the fan be kept in good repair. The fan should be on whenever either print core is at 50 C or hotter. Here's the guide for the front fan checks.
  17. Is the front fan on your printhead running? You can get heat issues/delays if it's not running since it's intended to keep the upper part of the Print Cores cool. Have you power cycled the material station since the firmware update to make sure everything took?
  18. Can you elaborate on what you mean about a cleaning process failure? Are you having issues with the Print Core cleaning in the menu? Or something else?
  19. Can you clarify what you mean about calibrating the printhead? Are you looking to check the alignment of your axles and check for play? I've got a guide here. Bowden tube and couplers are the top things I usually replace. With that much runtime on the belts though, you may want to replace those as well. I usually find they need it between about 3k and 4k print hours depending on the printing environment. I've got a guide for that here. If you're seeing a lot of black dust building up on top of your XY motors or the belts have gotten noisy, it's time to replace them.
  20. Download your log files to USB and send them to @ctbeke or upload them in this thread.
  21. The wires are permanently attached to the motor. If you want to take the motor out, you'll need to unplug it from the main board. That said, I usually leave the motor in the printer when cleaning the Z-screw unless it's got a lot of debris in it or there was some sort of accident (like broken glass).
  22. Generally if it's not making contact with the glass, it's usually an electrical issue--damage to the white and red cable, an issue with the printhead PCB, or very occasionally an electrical issue with the print core (I've only seen that once or twice; in one case I believe one of the cables on the print core was visibly damaged). If the printer is consistently working with all of the Print Cores except for this one, then I would agree the issue seems to be the Print Core.
  23. It should be towards the front, but if you have questions on a repair you're working through with support, I definitely recommend asking questions on the support ticket to make sure you're getting official answers.
  24. Looking at the photo...that's a lot of glue and it doesn't look very even. My first recommendation (aside from re-leveling the bed as has been mentioned) would be to take a wet paper towel to your bed. You do want to use glue--but only use a thin layer so there's no clumps. I like to put a few swipes with the glue stick and then use a wet paper towel to thin it out to a thin almost invisible layer. If they're clumps, your filament is going to catch on it.
  25. It might just be a heat sink issues, but it's also possible hardware damage, so you're definitely safer using an external heat source. Good luck!
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