fbrc8-erin

Both Print Cores need to heat during the active leveling process, so you won't be able to print if the first core is giving you an ER31. If the rest of the printhead isn't damaged, you can sometimes get the damage Print Core out by breaking it at the heat break (the very fragile part between the brass block, and the silver colored barrel piece). You can do it by gripping the block with a pair of pliers and twisting. Before trying to do that and remove it I would remove your other Print Core, and unscrew the side fan bracket and low fan bracket to get the plastic parts and fans out of the way so you have enough room to work on it without damaging anything that's still in good condition.

I haven't printed with NylonX particularly (though I've printed with other carbon and glass nylon materials), but if you want to try doing an interface layer only for the support part with PVA to minimize how much PVA you're using, I would do a small test piece first. Generally with a lot filament, PVA sticks better to the glass and itself than to other filaments, which is why the defaults in Cura generally go for more PVA rather than less, and connect multiple sections of PVA together where they can so that you've got outside PVA sticking directly to the bed and as much of the rest of it together as possible for more reliability. Since how well different materials bond can have a lot of factors, if you do want to do a PVA at interface layer only print with NylonX, I would recommend doing it as a small sample piece first to check how well it's going to bond together while you can monitor it before doing a big print and leaving it unattended. If the PVA doesn't bond well to NylonX, you're better off finding that out before a print has been left overnight by itself and could cause damage.

What bed temperature are you printing at? Have you tried increasing it? First layer speed?

It seems like possibly your side fans might not be running in the first photo. Also, when was the Z-screw last cleaned and lubricated? The Z-shafts?

Is the front fan running? Do you see any filament hairs caught up in it?

I'd recommend doing the extrusion upgrade kit if you're still using the UM2 feeder; the UM2 feeder was designed to kick back if it encounters issues, to avoid grinding. Which is great for avoiding grinding, but can give you under extrusion. The geared feeder on the UM2+ is a lot stronger. I'd recommend doing the whole upgrade kit. To swap out just the feeder you'd still need the feeder, mounting plate, and motor anyway, and that puts you almost halfway to the price of an upgrade kit before even accounting for replacing consumables like the bowden tube and TFM coupler.

@Dantan where are you located? If you're in the US, I've got it in stock and available to ship Monday: https://fbrc8.com/collections/ultimaker-3-spare-parts/products/usb-ulticontroller-display-board-um3-um3x If you're elsewhere, as @IRobertI mentioned, any local reseller can get the part for you.

Thanks for confirming @BirBikram. The UM3 does use the Olimex. The S3 uses a SOM board. If re-imaging the Olimex board doesn't do the trick, I'd go ahead and replace the board.

@BirBikram is it a UM3 or an S3? Can you please confirm? I see S3 mentioned in your first post, but the S3 doesn't use an Olimex board.

If the recovery image didn't work, then I think it's very likely you need the board at this point based on the LEDS not responding. If the LEDs were at least lighting then I'd recommend trying a new HDMI connect to the screen first.

When you lose print quality that can also be an issue with the belts--if you've got black blocks on your printer the belts themselves probably also have a lot of wear and tear this point. I find the belts tend to loose some of their elasticity at about 3000-4000 print hours. Signs the belts themselves need replacing: black dust around the motors, the belts leave black marks on your fingers when you touch them, belts start fraying, print head movements get very loud from the belts even after lubricating. Replacing the belts isn't hard, just a little finicky. Pay close attention to the pulley orientation, spacer positions, and making sure there is no play on your axles and that the sliding blocks are properly aligned at the end of the installation: https://ultimakernasupport.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/360039150512-XY-Axes-Parts-Long-Belts-Short-Belts-Motors-S5-S3

Most often camera issues are usually IP address related and resolved after a factory reset. As Smithy mentioned you can put the IP address into your browser and see what comes up that way. Are you running the latest firmware? And as gr5 mentioned, you can always submit a ticket. Screen shots of what you're seeing when you try to access the camera should also help.

Full warranty policy here: https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011627400-Ultimaker-S-line-warranty This would probably fall into the third party section under conditions if I was going to hazard a guess.

Could we see photos of what you're seeing on the gear?

What version of the firmware is on your printer? If you update to the latest, you can actually tell the printer that a roll is ABS Blue, ABS Black, any of the Ultimaker materials you want (rather than just ABS generic), regardless of the tag (so that you can go ahead and print with multiple spools if you need to). Do you have multiple spools that are missing NFC data or just one? The filament "battery indicator" won't have any impact in printing; even if it thinks there's not filament left on the roll, that's not going to translate to telling the printer not to print. It will only stop printing for you if it's not sensing filament at one of the expected locations (prefeeder, decoupler, S5 feeder) where there are sensors. So good news, you can keep printing. Bad news is, you're right, this shouldn't happen and it did. I'm going to send you a direct message so we can get some information over to the support team for you.

I don't have any recommendations for third party parts paired with the UMO+. But you could try Imaginables. They're Ultimaker's reseller there. Also, I haven't used this, but there's a guide here for modding a UMO+ with an Extrusion Upgrade Kit.

Where are you located?

We call the material Dibond. For most any other panel, a replacement panel should be pretty readily available. For the back panel it's a little different; removing the back panel exposes the power supply, so back panel replacements should be done where the machine can be HiPot tested for safety.

@cpi_ultimaker where are you located? I sell them as kits; I don't think it makes sense to ever only buy 1 belt because they should generally be replaced as a set (so I do a set of the 4 sliding blocks and a set of the 2 short belts). If you're ordering from pretty much anywhere else, it will most likely be 4 individual sliding blocks and 2 individual short belts since Ultimaker doesn't sell them as a set at this time.

I usually recommend belt replacement at 3000-4000 print hours hours. Black dust on the motors (or on the panels above the motor), really loud movement, and print quality issues are all good indications its time to replace them.

I was out of the office last week. There was a feeder design update. If you update one feeder, they both need to be updated as there's differences in the boards on them so they need to be running the same one. If you'll email my team back with your serial number, I can tell you which version is on your machine currently.

What brand of ABS are you printing? If printing Ultimaker ABS, it should be good with your Air Manager and the doors closed with the default settings. If you're using another brand of ABS, make sure to turn the bed temperature way up. Ultimaker ABS prints well in an 80 degree bed, so that's what the profile is set for. Pretty much every other brand I've encountered needs 90-100.

You could also turn down the cooling fans (or turn them off). Nylon shrinks as it cools, so slowing down the cooling should help.

Hi, @Bob1971. Like @Smithy said, I've got them in stock at fbrc8.com, if you're located in the US. If you're in another region, we can point you in the right direction if you'll tell us which country you're in.

An ER02 would be related to the bed sensor. The first thing I've check out would be to make sure your bed cables are screwed in well at the bed end and the board end. You may just need to tighten the cables. If you swap the bed cables and your printhead cables (the heater and the PT100) you can do some testing to determine if the issue is the bed, or the main board, but usually it will be the bed.