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fbrc8-erin

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Posts posted by fbrc8-erin

  1. I haven't printed with NylonX particularly (though I've printed with other carbon and glass nylon materials), but if you want to try doing an interface layer only for the support part with PVA to minimize how much PVA you're using, I would do a small test piece first.

     

    Generally with a lot filament, PVA sticks better to the glass and itself than to other filaments, which is why the defaults in Cura generally go for more PVA rather than less, and connect multiple sections of PVA together where they can so that you've got outside PVA sticking directly to the bed and as much of the rest of it together as possible for more reliability. 

    Since how well different materials bond can have a lot of factors, if you do want to do a PVA at interface layer only print with NylonX, I would recommend doing it as a small sample piece first to check how well it's going to bond together while you can monitor it before doing a big print and leaving it unattended. If the PVA doesn't bond well to NylonX, you're better off finding that out before a print has been left overnight by itself and could cause damage.

    • Like 1
  2. On 3/21/2024 at 9:06 PM, KTec said:

    I have an Ultimaker S5 Printer with a glass build plate. I am trying to print with Transparent CPE from Cura UltiMaker (1 Kg Spool). The CPE won't stick to the build plate and either prints some, and then balls up, or it doesn't print at all and drags around a ball of CPE. I have tried glue but it still isn't sticking to the build plate. The CPE is new and was only opened a few month ago. I know it hasn't adsorbed much moisture because it extrudes consistently and doesn't have any popping sounds coming from the print core. What can I do to fix this issue?

     

    What bed temperature are you printing at? Have you tried increasing it?

    First layer speed?

  3. I'd recommend doing the extrusion upgrade kit if you're still using the UM2 feeder; the UM2 feeder was designed to kick back if it encounters issues, to avoid grinding. Which is great for avoiding grinding, but can give you under extrusion.

     

    The geared feeder on the UM2+ is a lot stronger. I'd recommend doing the whole upgrade kit. To swap out just the feeder you'd still need the feeder, mounting plate, and motor anyway, and that puts you almost halfway to the price of an upgrade kit before even accounting for replacing consumables like the bowden tube and TFM coupler.

    • Like 1
  4. On 5/23/2022 at 1:45 PM, AMK said:

    Hi All, unfortunately I already bought some original S5 X-slinding blocks including the belts before I found this topic here.
    The old, worn out sliding block parts are black, the new ones are white, maybe those are different in material.

     

    Is there any describtion available how to exchange the blocks in the best/correct and most simple way?  

    BTW: indeed I lost printing quality over time after this rod-got-loose-in-block-casing-seat problem occured.
    (my S5 sliding block problem started by a collision of printing head with the glas bed...) 
    I firstly though about some z-wobbeling issues but most likely my printing problems seem to result mainly from displacements due to X-rod play while printing.

     

    When you lose print quality that can also be an issue with the belts--if you've got black blocks on your printer the belts themselves probably also have a lot of wear and tear this point. I find the belts tend to loose some of their elasticity at about 3000-4000 print hours. Signs the belts themselves need replacing: black dust around the motors, the belts leave black marks on your fingers when you touch them, belts start fraying, print head movements get very loud from the belts even after lubricating. 

    Replacing the belts isn't hard, just a little finicky. Pay close attention to the pulley orientation, spacer positions, and making sure there is no play on your axles and that the sliding blocks are properly aligned at the end of the installation: https://ultimakernasupport.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/360039150512-XY-Axes-Parts-Long-Belts-Short-Belts-Motors-S5-S3

  5. Most often camera issues are usually IP address related and resolved after a factory reset. As Smithy mentioned you can put the IP address into your browser and see what comes up that way. Are you running the latest firmware?
     

    And as gr5 mentioned, you can always submit a ticket. Screen shots of what you're seeing when you try to access the camera should also help.

  6. On 1/28/2022 at 3:53 AM, Super_paulie said:

    defo going to look into that Smithy, just need time when the printer isnt in use! its pretty much 24/7 in here with really long jobs. 

    It looks great though. Most of those commands should really be in a "developer/pro mode" within the firmware, especially the bed levelling as our bed never moves and the hot end wrecks the kapton. Im defiantly gunna give the tuner a go hopefully this afternoon.

    What does this do in terms of warranty on the machine...?


    Full warranty policy here: https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011627400-Ultimaker-S-line-warranty

     

    This would probably fall into the third party section under conditions if I was going to hazard a guess.

  7. What version of the firmware is on your printer? If you update to the latest, you can actually tell the printer that a roll is ABS Blue, ABS Black, any of the Ultimaker materials you want (rather than just ABS generic), regardless of the tag (so that you can go ahead and print with multiple spools if you need to).


    Do you have multiple spools that are missing NFC data or just one? 

    The filament "battery indicator" won't have any impact in printing; even if it thinks there's not filament left on the roll, that's not going to translate to telling the printer not to print. It will only stop printing for you if it's not sensing filament at one of the expected locations (prefeeder, decoupler, S5 feeder) where there are sensors.

    So good news, you can keep printing. Bad news is, you're right, this shouldn't happen and it did. I'm going to send you a direct message so we can get some information over to the support team for you.

    • Like 2
  8. @cpi_ultimaker where are you located? I sell them as kits; I don't think it makes sense to ever only buy 1 belt because they should generally be replaced as a set (so I do a set of the 4 sliding blocks and a set of the 2 short belts). If you're ordering from pretty much anywhere else, it will most likely be 4 individual sliding blocks and 2 individual short belts since Ultimaker doesn't sell them as a set at this time.

  9. 17 hours ago, 3dprntz said:

    I think there is the R1 and R2 of the S5.

     

    I was out of the office last week. 

     

    There was a feeder design update. If you update one feeder, they both need to be updated as there's differences in the boards on them so they need to be running the same one. If you'll email my team back with your serial number, I can tell you which version is on your machine currently.

  10. 4 hours ago, JTMD said:

     ABS warps.   I bought the air handler and installed it today - hopefully that will help but if it doesn't - I'll be adding insulation and an air heater.  If that doesn't fix it, I'll be making another clone.  🙂

     

    What brand of ABS are you printing? If printing Ultimaker ABS, it should be good with your Air Manager and the doors closed with the default settings.

    If you're using another brand of ABS, make sure to turn the bed temperature way up. Ultimaker ABS prints well in an 80 degree bed, so that's what the profile is set for. Pretty much every other brand I've encountered needs 90-100.

  11. An ER02 would be related to the bed sensor. The first thing I've check out would be to make sure your bed cables are screwed in well at the bed end and the board end. You may just need to tighten the cables.

    If you swap the bed cables and your printhead cables (the heater and the PT100) you can do some testing to determine if the issue is the bed, or the main board, but usually it will be the bed. 

    • Like 1
  12. I don't think so, since the firmware doesn't expect there to be an air manager, and the air manager is controlled through the firmware and slicing of the files (for max build chamber volume). There are some third party S3 enclosures out there with built in fans.

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