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Posts posted by fbrc8-erin

  1. 1 hour ago, hobe12 said:

    @gr5 - I'm trying to remove the z stepper motor. Is it possible to remove the wires from the stepper directly or do I need to follow the wire to the main board(s)? They aren't sliding out from the motor easily and I don't want to force it if thats not the correct way. Many thanks!


    The wires are permanently attached to the motor. If you want to take the motor out, you'll need to unplug it from the main board. That said, I usually leave the motor in the printer when cleaning the Z-screw unless it's got a lot of debris in it or there was some sort of accident (like broken glass).

  2. Generally if it's not making contact with the glass, it's usually an electrical issue--damage to the white and red cable, an issue with the printhead PCB, or very occasionally an electrical issue with the print core (I've only seen that once or twice; in one case I believe one of the cables on the print core was visibly damaged). If the printer is consistently working with all of the Print Cores except for this one, then I would agree the issue seems to be the Print Core.

  3. Looking at the photo...that's a lot of glue and it doesn't look very even. My first recommendation (aside from re-leveling the bed as has been mentioned) would be to take a wet paper towel to your bed. You do want to use glue--but only use a thin layer so there's no clumps. I like to put a few swipes with the glue stick and then use a wet paper towel to thin it out to a thin almost invisible layer. If they're clumps, your filament is going to catch on it.

    • Like 1

  4. Do you have a heat gun or soldering iron you can apply to the plastic? 


    At best, all the filament around your printhead is acting as a heat sink and and causing the error; at worst your heater and/or temperature sensor may be damaged (I'm not familiar with the Tevo) and the error is there to make sure you don't have thermal runaway. 


    Best bet is to apply an external heat source and pull material away with pliers or similar.

    • Like 2

  5. It's not possible to turn off the bed leveling on the S3; the UM3/UM3X can turn it off, but not the S5 or S3. 

    Is your lifting switch functioning properly? If it's missing the lift switch and the wrong Print Core is down you could get active leveling errors.

    What about the red and white cable inside the printhead, seated in the metal bracket at the bottom of the printhead? If those cables are unseated your active leveling will fail.

  6. The process is definitely very similar between the two models. The biggest difference is going to be that your printhead cable clips into the back of your PCB on the S5/S3, but on the front of the PCB on the UM3/UM3X.

    Also, depending on the age of your UM3/UM3X, the back piece of the cover may lift off backwards instead of up as it does on the S5/S3/later UM3/UM3X.

    • Like 1

  7. If your fans buzz briefly, then your main electronics board is getting power. That means the issue is most likely at the wifi board or Olimex. Since you've already tried booting up without the wifi board, my best guess would be that the Olimex board is failing. You could try re-imaging it, but given that it's not stuck on the Ultimaker logo screen at this point, I'm more inclined to think it's a hardware issue rather than a firmware one.

  8. It's a great idea to want to help. There are some 3D printing related organizations out there geared towards helping children using 3D printing. I haven't worked firsthand with either of these (other people on the forum may have firsthand knowledge), but a couple of organizations for making prosthetic arms for kids in need come to mind. These are two I've heard of Enable and Limbitless Solutions

    • Like 1

  9. 11 hours ago, gr5 said:


    2) keep electromagnetic energy away from your printer during auto level - make sure there is a 1 foot clearance around the printer during autolevel (e.g. no laptops within a foot of the printer).  Other S5 printers side by side are fine.  Most importantly keep your hands, head and fingers at least a foot away from the printer during auto leveling.


    A note on another cause of electromagnetic interference--if your front fan cable gets pinched it can cause interference that makes your active leveling fail.


    Unplug the white and black fan cable and try running your active leveling again. If it works fine you need a new front fan.

    • Like 3

  10. I've seen some printable versions of the sliding block halves online, but I haven't printed them/installed them myself. You can find some options on YouMagine.com.

    To keep the blocks from being affected by heat, you'll want to make sure the interior of your printer stays at 50 C or cooler; thats how the Air Manager prevents this from happening, it monitors the temperature and runs the fan to regulate it.

  11. I would reach out to your reseller about exchanging that Print Core.

    It's not a common occurrence, and this should not be a problem with the printer, just the Print Core. Most likely when Print Cores are programmed there are probably 2 settings--pick AA, BB, or CC, and pick a size. Evidently someone hit the wrong size on the size option.

    If there's an issue with the Printhead PCB board, it wouldn't read the Print Core at all, it wouldn't give it a wrong size. If the printhead PCB was the issue, it would give a message that said the Print Core wasn't recognized.

    • Like 3
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