fbrc8-erin

Can we get a picture of the STL for comparison? I haven't printed with Hatchbox PLA but my initial thought is that 80 C is too high for PLA on the bed.

It may be that it's trying to do the skirt with both materials. Are you printing with a skirt? If you turn off the skirt, does it still try to start with Print Core 2? Or is this happening during the leveling process? It should active level both Cores. The printer should know which Core is down at any point in time by homing and going to the switching bay before any activities where it matters which Core is in the "active" position. To be safe, you might want to go ahead and calibrate the lifting switch:

I think it's easy to miss because there's 2 sets of menus; the Material Menu, and the Print Core menu. You can also use the "Move" option in the Material menu to manually heat it, but you can't control the temperature with that, it will automatically go up to around 200 (varies depending on material installed). Print Core menu is the best option for manually setting it to a specific temperature.

When you talk about the firmware options--are you looking for a menu tree? Or a list of all the previous firmware versions?

What version of the firmware are you running? What version of Cura are you using?

With TPU you generally want to avoid retraction if possible, but I think increasing the travel speed should be fine, though I usually only go up to about 250 for travel speed.

I haven't tried using anything other than the stock feeder on a UMO+, but it looks like there's a thread here where people are discussing alternatives if you want to take a look.

"Wheel" means you make the adjustment with the button on the front of the machine, so you're actually changing the height recognized/saved on the Z-motor itself, so it should ask you to use the wheel/button for the back center leveling location for both print cores. For the 2 front leveling positions, you use the thumbscrews on the bed itself to sort out the spring tension. For major adjustments on the printer, you can use the back thumbscrew also, but in general, the back thumbscrew shouldn't usually need to be touched most of the time.

Did the parts come loose from the bed? What material are you printing with? Using any adhesive on the build plate?

Issue is resolved. :-) We generally ask for serial numbers at the start of a new ticket, so as long as one is provided at some point, we can check back for it. If someone has an earlier ticket with us, we can generally go back and look at the earlier ticket and pull the number from there. All serial numbers are unique. The UMOs didn't have serial numbers, but everything since the UM2 came out has them.

Glad you were able to get the cable changed out. I don't think I've ever seen the printhead PCB board cause the issue, just the printhead cable.

If you came back and found the printer on the home screen and the printer on the home screen, and the bed and head not homed, that usually means you lost power. Even losing power for a couple of seconds will shut down the printer and when it powers back on, it will have no idea it was in the middle of a print. I would recommend a battery back up. I use it for long prints running unattended overnight in case we get strong winds and have a momentary power lapse.

I think there could be a short in your heated bed then. If you've got a multimeter you can measure the connectors on the bed plate. Does your plate have a screw in terminal block or push fit connections on the underside?

I would try and connect it to another program with that cable and see if you get a connection. Here's the link for Pronterface: http://www.pronterface.com/ If that fails, I would try a different/shorter cable.

How long is the USB cable you're using? Can you connect the printer to your computer successfully with other programs? (Pronterface is a good choice.) It could be an issue at the board, but it could also be a cable issue. Super long cables can time out while trying to transfer the data. Have you tried more than one cable?

I haven't seen reliability issues with the newer bricks and the UM2s. Are you having any issues with the power if you heat the bed but don't run the printhead? It's possible there could be an issue with the heated bed plate rather than the power supply.

Change the settings you want to say and then make a new profile. In the box next to where it says "Profile" if you click the arrow at the end, there will be an option to save your current settings as a new profile.

I've seen it done. You just need to be careful about the fan shroud, because the UM2 fan shroud is a bit of a tight fit for an Olsson block. Since there's nowhere to specify the nozzle size, you could get away with changing the line-width instead.

gr5, blue tape doesn't actually come with the UM3X or UM3, only with the UM2Go. PiJey, are there any indications of power issues elsewhere in the office? If you tug on the power supply, does the power supply come out of the printer? (It should be locked in place, so it shouldn't come out without sliding the sliding lock; if it does come out, it wasn't seated firmly enough). How long have you had the printer?

Glad cleaning the bowden tube helped. Definitely always important to make sure the whole feed path is clean so no older filaments get carried up.

We've got couplers in-stock over at fbrc8.com; you'll want to search for TFM coupler though rather than PTFE. A little more durable than PTFE; it's what's used in the UM2+.

The UM2Go uses a PTFE coupler, which I usually recommend replacing around 500 hours, but you can go ahead and take apart the printhead and inspect your coupler. I wouldn't expect your coupler to be as discolored as this, since these had been printing ABS, but if you look at the ridges on the inside and the fact that the interior is widened out on the two dark ones and compare it to the new coupler on the left, it should give you an idea of how they look with wear and tear.

Also, what's your first layer printing speed? If you go into the Tune menu and slow down your gcode during the first layer, does the first layer print okay?

Have you cleaned the inside of the bowden tube and inside of the feeder? I know you mentioned cleaning the nozzle, but the feeder and bowden tube are important too.

This generally happens if your print detaches from the bed during printing--it will attach itself to the nozzle, and start going up into the printhead because there's nowhere else for it to go. I recommend reaching out to your reseller.