fbrc8-erin

I don't think so, since the firmware doesn't expect there to be an air manager, and the air manager is controlled through the firmware and slicing of the files (for max build chamber volume). There are some third party S3 enclosures out there with built in fans.

The fan thing took a bit to diagnose as a potential cause for the issue when we first came across it--but the good news is, it's one of the easiest things to test for and definitively rule out ones you are looking for it.

What printer are you using?

Is it possible that the head is getting bumped during the filament change? If it did it would lose the steps and then the lifting switch would miss the bay when it goes back over and your second nozzle could drag through.

@capcotechuser are you sure about the bed temperature? 215C is about 100 degrees too high for the bed. What model Ultimaker are you printing on? Are the sliding blocks on your machine black or white? If it's an older machine with black plastic blocks, those machines didn't come with any enclosures and the blocks are made of ABS, so they will take wear and tear from heat if you enclose the machine and don't leave some avenue for excess heat to escape. The blocks (especially on your Y axis) spend a lot of time close to the bed during your first few layers. For the later machines (S3, Connect, etc), the blocks are made of a different material--it's more heat resistant. However, the enclosures Ultimaker makes for those machines are also designed to control the ambient temperature and keep it from overheating. I think max recommended build chamber temperature is around 55C.

I'll make sure it goes out today. We keep all our items in stock for immediate availability/shipping.

Are the printhead shafts refusing to snap solidly into the blocks? Do you enclose your machine? If you have heat wear and tear on the blocks, it may be time to replace your sliding blocks if reseating them doesn't do the trick.

When you're able to get logs, we'll be happy to help.

Glad to help!

I've written instructions on this here. The process isn't too bad, just make sure everything is lined up, and all of your spacers and pulleys are tight to the wall so there's no play in the axles.

@rachael7 this is exactly the sort of thing fbrc8 helps with. It looks like one of our technicians responded to your ticket on Friday morning and is waiting for feedback from you.

The Ultimaker 2 was produced from 2013 to 2015. It's a pretty solid machine, but the UM2+ had some really great improvements. If you put an extrusion upgrade kit on the UM2 it changes out the entire extrusion path for an Ultimaker 2+ one (which makes it more compatible for easily available parts) and just grants you a lot more reliability with the geared feeder instead of the knurled sleeve on the UM2 feeder.

Best option if you need to account for power disruption on an S5 would be to print with the machine attached to an uninterruptible power supply/UPS. I use them because we get a lot of wind in the area and it doesn't take much to lose power briefly.

@cav it's exactly what @gr5 said. All the Print Cores go through physical checks as well as functional tests (including printing with it) at the factory before they ship. A little residual filament in the Print Core is definitely normal. The Print Cores are tested with PLA, so anything that's still in the Print Core will purge out the first time you print with it.

The UM2 was built until 2015. Starting in 2016 the UM2+ was released...and now we have the Ultimaker 2+ Connect. If you need an earlier version of Cura, you can go back to a previous version: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/tags However, Ultimaker 4.9.1 does still have the ability to let you pick an Ultimaker 2 with an Olsson block upgrade so you can set for different nozzle sizes.

I still carry most of the UM2 parts at www.fbrc8.com in addition to the UM2+ ones. I try to carry just about everything. What are you looking for?

GST is the correct power supply for the machine; GSS have not been used since 2016. The issue you're describing is something we were able to replicate in our office using our UM2C; it's expected behavior for the printer as far as I can tell, as it's not intended to print with a below 60C bed. @Szahari may be able to explain in more detail.

@kupfeli the bed isn't intended for printing below 60C as far as I am aware. @Szahari can explain in more detail. I have found a work around: by starting a print with the temperature at 60 C, aborting it, and then starting your lower temperature print while the bed is still warm. What are you printing that needs to be done at below 60 bed temperature? I usually find 60C to be a great starting point.

Sorry, just saw this. I've seen them not read if they're not pushed in far enough. Definitely make sure they click into place.

Glad it's booting now!

The red and white ones on the metal bracket are your active leveling cables; they shouldn't be related to ER18 errors.

Glad we could help! We like to see machines able to get back up and running in the best shape possible. 😀

This video is also really good for the cleaning process:

What model printer are you using? For most Ultimaker printers the hot end cooling fan turns on when your nozzle or Print Core heat to 50C. It cannot be controlled in the settings. For your model cooling fans--how long are you waiting for those to turn on? They don't kick on until the second or third layer, in order to prevent adhesion issues.

Is this a ticket at support.ultimaker.com? It depends on the type of query you're submitting. If you're troubleshooting a hardware issue with an Ultimaker printer it should stay open/pending. There's a few other categories (I think mostly related to third party machines) that may auto-solve after the first response unless you respond back.