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Do you have a heat gun or soldering iron you can apply to the plastic? At best, all the filament around your printhead is acting as a heat sink and and causing the error; at worst your heater and/or temperature sensor may be damaged (I'm not familiar with the Tevo) and the error is there to make sure you don't have thermal runaway. Best bet is to apply an external heat source and pull material away with pliers or similar.

Good functional print!

It's not possible to turn off the bed leveling on the S3; the UM3/UM3X can turn it off, but not the S5 or S3. Is your lifting switch functioning properly? If it's missing the lift switch and the wrong Print Core is down you could get active leveling errors. What about the red and white cable inside the printhead, seated in the metal bracket at the bottom of the printhead? If those cables are unseated your active leveling will fail.

I confirmed with a couple colleagues just to be sure, but it doesn't look like that should be any part of an S5, so your printer should be all right.

That is definitely not any part of your printhead. Is it possible it's from some other equipment nearby?

What model machine do you have? I don't recognize that part at all.

It should definitely be doable. With the S5, that back piece of plastic lifts straight up on off instead of backwards as in my video.

The process is definitely very similar between the two models. The biggest difference is going to be that your printhead cable clips into the back of your PCB on the S5/S3, but on the front of the PCB on the UM3/UM3X. Also, depending on the age of your UM3/UM3X, the back piece of the cover may lift off backwards instead of up as it does on the S5/S3/later UM3/UM3X.

I love it.

That looks so tasty.

If your fans buzz briefly, then your main electronics board is getting power. That means the issue is most likely at the wifi board or Olimex. Since you've already tried booting up without the wifi board, my best guess would be that the Olimex board is failing. You could try re-imaging it, but given that it's not stuck on the Ultimaker logo screen at this point, I'm more inclined to think it's a hardware issue rather than a firmware one.

The procedure should definitely also work on your UM2. The sliding block set up is essentially the same on all the UM2/UM3/S series machines, just with different belt lengths.

It's a great idea to want to help. There are some 3D printing related organizations out there geared towards helping children using 3D printing. I haven't worked firsthand with either of these (other people on the forum may have firsthand knowledge), but a couple of organizations for making prosthetic arms for kids in need come to mind. These are two I've heard of Enable and Limbitless Solutions.

I would recommend trying another browser other than internet explorer; I've seen it cause issues with firmware downloads before.

Glad it's back up and running again. 😀

A note on another cause of electromagnetic interference--if your front fan cable gets pinched it can cause interference that makes your active leveling fail. Unplug the white and black fan cable and try running your active leveling again. If it works fine you need a new front fan.

I've seen some printable versions of the sliding block halves online, but I haven't printed them/installed them myself. You can find some options on YouMagine.com. To keep the blocks from being affected by heat, you'll want to make sure the interior of your printer stays at 50 C or cooler; thats how the Air Manager prevents this from happening, it monitors the temperature and runs the fan to regulate it.

If removing the wifi board solves the boot issue, then you'll need a new wifi board if you want wifi back, but in the meantime everything but wifi would work.

I would reach out to your reseller about exchanging that Print Core. It's not a common occurrence, and this should not be a problem with the printer, just the Print Core. Most likely when Print Cores are programmed there are probably 2 settings--pick AA, BB, or CC, and pick a size. Evidently someone hit the wrong size on the size option. If there's an issue with the Printhead PCB board, it wouldn't read the Print Core at all, it wouldn't give it a wrong size. If the printhead PCB was the issue, it would give a message that said the Print Core wasn't recognized.

It's rare, but I've seen a pinched front fan cable (the black and white one) cause electrical interference with the active leveling. To test this unplug your front fan and run active leveling and see if it works. (Note: don't run your print this way; running prints without your front fan can make the filament swell in your Print Cores.)

If you loosen 2 screws at opposite diagonals then you can rotate them totally freely.

You can downgrade firmware if you have an older version saved on a USB stick.

@ldaponte it's a tight fit, so you pretty much have to manhandle it out. You can wedge a screwdriver in there to try and get some extra leverage. Make sure the bed is all the way at the bottom before trying to remove the corner cover.

The UM3 does not come with blue tape. It comes with a glue stick: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/23099-unboxing

Usually if it thinks the material has run out and you still have filament on the reel it's usually that your filament is ground down--either printing too fast or with a partially clogged nozzle. Is your filament that's inside the feeder chewed up/has a bite taken out of it?