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fbrc8-erin

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Posts posted by fbrc8-erin

  1. It's not possible to turn off the bed leveling on the S3; the UM3/UM3X can turn it off, but not the S5 or S3. 

    Is your lifting switch functioning properly? If it's missing the lift switch and the wrong Print Core is down you could get active leveling errors.

    What about the red and white cable inside the printhead, seated in the metal bracket at the bottom of the printhead? If those cables are unseated your active leveling will fail.

  2. The process is definitely very similar between the two models. The biggest difference is going to be that your printhead cable clips into the back of your PCB on the S5/S3, but on the front of the PCB on the UM3/UM3X.

    Also, depending on the age of your UM3/UM3X, the back piece of the cover may lift off backwards instead of up as it does on the S5/S3/later UM3/UM3X.

    • Like 1
  3. If your fans buzz briefly, then your main electronics board is getting power. That means the issue is most likely at the wifi board or Olimex. Since you've already tried booting up without the wifi board, my best guess would be that the Olimex board is failing. You could try re-imaging it, but given that it's not stuck on the Ultimaker logo screen at this point, I'm more inclined to think it's a hardware issue rather than a firmware one.

  4. It's a great idea to want to help. There are some 3D printing related organizations out there geared towards helping children using 3D printing. I haven't worked firsthand with either of these (other people on the forum may have firsthand knowledge), but a couple of organizations for making prosthetic arms for kids in need come to mind. These are two I've heard of Enable and Limbitless Solutions

    • Like 1
  5. 11 hours ago, gr5 said:

     

    2) keep electromagnetic energy away from your printer during auto level - make sure there is a 1 foot clearance around the printer during autolevel (e.g. no laptops within a foot of the printer).  Other S5 printers side by side are fine.  Most importantly keep your hands, head and fingers at least a foot away from the printer during auto leveling.

     

    A note on another cause of electromagnetic interference--if your front fan cable gets pinched it can cause interference that makes your active leveling fail.

     

    Unplug the white and black fan cable and try running your active leveling again. If it works fine you need a new front fan.

    • Like 7
  6. I've seen some printable versions of the sliding block halves online, but I haven't printed them/installed them myself. You can find some options on YouMagine.com.

    To keep the blocks from being affected by heat, you'll want to make sure the interior of your printer stays at 50 C or cooler; thats how the Air Manager prevents this from happening, it monitors the temperature and runs the fan to regulate it.

  7. I would reach out to your reseller about exchanging that Print Core.


    It's not a common occurrence, and this should not be a problem with the printer, just the Print Core. Most likely when Print Cores are programmed there are probably 2 settings--pick AA, BB, or CC, and pick a size. Evidently someone hit the wrong size on the size option.


    If there's an issue with the Printhead PCB board, it wouldn't read the Print Core at all, it wouldn't give it a wrong size. If the printhead PCB was the issue, it would give a message that said the Print Core wasn't recognized.

    • Like 3
  8. 55 minutes ago, Hoffa said:

    Tried the M142 RGBW implementation into gcode but nothing changed. I tried both turning everything off and turning specific colors on, as per the video (except in gcode files I put on a USB stick and plugged into the printer). 

    I hadn't even noticed before, but the top light strip is also the warm white, so it looks like the left is the odd man out being the cool white - it's also closer to the ~4000K that I'd like to look at. The previous owner said they hadn't noticed anything, but since this was in use before they got it, I'm wondering if maybe the left LED strip has been changed out at some point... 

     

    It's a single LED strip set unless they've cut and soldered the wires. It's 3 sections of LEDs that (at least the OEM part) are one piece which plugs in at the board. The gel on the LEDs can discolor sometimes though which would make it more yellow.

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