fbrc8-erin
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3D Prints
Posts posted by fbrc8-erin
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The motors should already be locked in place during the change process so the head shouldn't be moving. Is it possible the glass is shifting/being touched when you go to wipe the head?
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Ah, I'm not familiar with that printer. If it was a UM3 I would have said it might be traveling to do the lift switch mechanism.
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What model printer is this?
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The printhead should move to the front middle during material change in the middle of a print and the motors lock in place.
Normally if I've got a shift on the print after material change during print it's usually that the build plate got knocked slightly rather than the printhead.
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That matches my view of Cura for the UM2X+ and when I look at the printer itself. You lose print space on the right hand side because the nozzle isn't centered on the fan shroud (it's on the left)--you lose a lot more space on the right edge of the bed.
223 by 223 is also dead on to the advertised specs: https://ultimaker.com/3d-printers/ultimaker-2-plus
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Exactly what they said.
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It's definitely not quite the same. I think the pipe part is shorter on the UM2+ ones; I know the nozzle end is larger on the UMO.
Here's the github: https://github.com/Ultimaker/UltimakerOriginalAnd here's the step file and PDF for the nozzles: https://github.com/Ultimaker/UltimakerOriginal/tree/master/1054_Nozzle_0.4mm
Your reseller should be able to order OEM nozzles in for you even if they don't regularly carry them. If you're in the US, I keep them in stock. -
I don't think you'll be disappointed in the Upgrade Kit. And good call on the belts!
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You usually see swelling like that when your front fan isn't running strongly enough (or at all). It can get tiny filament hairs wrapped around it that choke the fan motor. Have you cleaned the fan with tweezers recently?
https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/52501-check-for-residue-in-the-front-fan-of-the-print-head-
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If the steppers are hard to turn by hand when it's disassembled then most likely they've gone out and need to be replaced. I would do the X and Y. I've not personally seen the Z-motor lock up in the same way, so if you're not having Z problems, it's probably okay.
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Glad to help! Definitely sounds like the PVA is too damp. When you're not using it, store it in a sealed plastic bag or box with silica. You can try drying it out on the heated bed for a few hours at 55 or 60 C, but if it's too far gone, it may not be recoverable. If it gets too dried out trying to recover it, it can get brittle and snap in the bowden tube.
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Does your PVA feel at all flexible? How long has this PVA been open? If you put your AA Print Core in Slot 2 and try to print PLA is it having the same issues you're having with the PVA?
When reassembling the feeder, have you set the tension to the mid-point? -
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Are you printing with one material or two? Build plate temperature is a global setting; even if you've set 1 material to 0 degrees, if material 2 is set to 70 degrees it will default to the higher temperature since it's a shared setting.
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It looks like you're going to need to re-image the Olimex board. There are instructions online here:
I'd recommend reaching out to your reseller for help.
Did this happen after updating the firmware? -
UM2 should be able to handle CPE/Copolyester from Ultimaker. If you're running older firmware, it will only list ABS and PLA though, so if you don't see CPE in the material options, you'll want to update the firmware.
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Contact your reseller. You're going to need to re-image the Olimex board from a microSD card.
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Well done! That looks really nice.
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Does the printer sit flat on flat surfaces?
I do see what you're talking about in the photo with the sliding blocks in the correct position, but unless there's major damage to the frame of the printer, I think the issue is more likely the bed isn't sitting straight than that the printhead isn't.
Maybe at some point the previous own dropped something heavy on the bed? -
The sliding blocks absolutely need to be straight up and down in the printhead shafts. Loosen the printhead shaft from both ends of the sliding block at the same time, get the first one perpendicular, and then you can manage the second one.
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8 hours ago, kmanstudios said:
That does not seem to make sense to me as if getting moist made it brittle, it would do so when dissolving it. PVA by nature is going to soften and dissolve when moist or wet.
Why would it get brittle?
I've had PVA get brittle when left exposed in a heated office over a winter where we were running the heat a lot. The PVA got brittle (over the course of about 6 months sitting exposed), and it broke into multiple pieces in the tube.
So essentially if you dry it too much...it gets brittle instead of flexible like it does when humidity gets into it.
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Beeping noises on retraction are pretty normal. Can you share a video?
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The rods are press fit into the black blocks--tilt the black blocks and you can slide the rods out of the printhead. 🙂 I've got another video for that:
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Press on the clip with a screwdriver to get it to release. It's hard to see it on video from inside the printer.
Here's a close up with the parts removed for clarity. It's a UM3 board in video, but the only difference is that it's on the back of the UMS5 board, but the front of the UM3 board. Just use your screwdriver to apply pressure at the top there to get it to release.
UM3 frame light strips completely different colors!
in UltiMaker 3D printers
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It's a single LED strip set unless they've cut and soldered the wires. It's 3 sections of LEDs that (at least the OEM part) are one piece which plugs in at the board. The gel on the LEDs can discolor sometimes though which would make it more yellow.