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gonazar

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  1. Hello all, Title says it all. Whenever it should retract, the feed motor just stops moving as the head travels. This leads to a LOT of oozing and stringing across the print. I'm pretty stumped why it's doing this. Retraction is enabled on Cura, my retraction length is 4.5mm and speed 25mm/s set on the machine. I've updated the firmware to the latest available and can't figure out why it's still doing this. I would have brought this up earlier, but it's not as much of an issue with PLA. I recently switched to PETG and since it's hotter, it's stringing just ev
  2. Agreed. Maybe not the default but I think it should be an official fork, a supported option so that updates are maintained. As you said, just having the option available would help a lot for troubleshooting, non-advanced users could enable it if they need it to solve issues.
  3. I wish this display was the default for UM2. I feel like this is pretty vital information that even regular users would appreciate. Not that I don't trust this firmware, but it would be nice to have this part of the main branch so we could continue to get updates. IE: Seems like this branch hasn't been updated to 14.07.0 yet.
  4. Thank you guys for your prompt fix!
  5. Thanks! I ended up just sticking a piece of PLA in between so the limit switch would trigger earlier. Does this offset the dimensions of the build area though? (Not that I would print all the way out to the edge anyways) How would the printer know when it hits the opposite edge? I don't see any limit switches for that side. Is that software based in the printer settings of how big the build area is?
  6. Hello, I've had my printer for about a month or two, but more recently I've noticed a scratching sound at the beginning and end of printing. While working on a print I checked the home position and noticed the wall is being scratched by the fan of the print head. Due to this, one of the fans is being warped upwards. Any idea what caused this, how to fix it and what I can do to prevent it in the future? I'm wondering if the firmware update caused this, as I haven't touched or modified any of the hardware. If it's not that, then I think it might be accumulating error from the step
  7. Can someone tell me, or direct me to documentation about Outer Shell speed? I'm interested in finding out if it's possible to have a lower print speed for the outer most parts of the print for better surface quality. Looking at the advanced settings I've seen the outer shell speed option, but can't find any documentation about it. The only threads I've seen is that it might be bugged and/or cause worse surface quality + slower printing overall. I also started looking at plugins and found http://wiki.ultimaker.com/CuraPlugin:_Surfacespeed but it sounds similar I'm wondering if what the diffe
  8. Well, I'm still using the PLA Ultimaker provided me which melts fine at 190C even though the default preset was 210C. PLA's melting point is actually 170C, which can be raised about 50-60C by blending other polymers. Typically most filaments are within the 180-210C range. However, if we're trying to optimize printing and reduce the stringing effect in overhangs, you want that sweet spot where the plastic can extrude but cool quickly. If you set the temperature too high then it'll be more like a liquid, allowing it to spread/stretch/string out before it sets. So it doesn't matter what the ma
  9. Hey, Is anyone else having this issue? When I click on the thumbnails for the image carousel it doesn't work, and none of the images load. I have this issue on all pages. I looked into the code and I can manually change whichever image tag to active so I can see it but obviously it's broken if I have to do that. I'm using the latest version of Chrome on Windows 7 with no extensions. Surprisingly I wasn't able to find an about page or site admin contact for Youmagine, so I thought I'd post the problem here. The console reports the error below when I click the thumbnails. For readability sak
  10. Why not turn the fans on at 1 mm instead of 0? I would think 10 layers should be enough to adhere to the glass well, more so if there is glue. It seems a bit overkill to push the temperature that high since the PLA is suppose to melt at 190C. I agree with EldRick that a room temp bed with glue would help small parts adhere instead of doing a heated bed. Mind you, I've only recently gotten the UM2 myself and am still tweaking things to get the best results.
  11. Topic says it all. Surprisingly I haven't found any previous info or threads on this. I'm not entirely sure but I imagine settings would have been overwritten with the firmware update.
  12. Just got my UM2 this week. Despite some issues, this seems to be the typical result. This is good, yes? Also, how is print volume speed (mm^3/s) calculated from print speed (mm/s) and layer height? The test file is done with .25 mm layers, but at what speeds? For 0.1mm layers these values were listed: 3mm³/s = 75mm/s 4mm³/s = 100mm/s 5mm³ = 125mm/s 6mm³ = 150mm/s 7mm³ = 175mm/s 8mm³ = 200mm/s 9mm³ = 225mm/s 10mm³ = 250mm/s
  13. I've just started out printing on my Ultimaker 2 and I want to fine tune the settings for my prints. So far I've only been using the default (High, Normal and Low Quality) options in the quickprint menu. Moving over to the Expert settings, I see most of the values are defaulted to certain values and don't change if I change the quickprint option. For comparison with what I have already printed, can someone provide me what the exact settings in the full+advanced parameters are for each of the default options? EG: What layer height is the quickprint high quality option using? Also, are there
  14. I realized it wasn't properly made (injection mold i'm guessing) and filed down that tab. I got it in now. At first I didn't care, but then the filament started rubbing the feeder enclosure and making a loud squeeking. I put the guide in to stop it, but I think i'm gonna have to get the filament to go under the power cable so it goes in straight up.
  15. Mine doesn't fit =( It says it goes in like a key + key hole, then you rotate 90 deg. until a little tab clicks into a hole. However the bit that goes inside the keyhole doesn't go in far enough, so I can't rotate it. The piece is actually well made, so I can't even bend it to force it in, not that I really want to on my new printer. I suppose if I want this, i might have to print my own.
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