onemorejo

Hi, My UM2 did overheat at some time and the lowest part of the plastik tower wich holds the XY bearings and the hotend melted a little bit. I found the link to the GIT Hub account and did see the STEP file wich I can modify to STL and then print, But I dont know how to actually download it. I did download the PDF file easily, because for the PDF there was a download button. The name of the part is 1322 B2P-A. Does anybody know how to manage this. Thanks! Johannes

Hi, thanks for bringing up this topic... I checkt it actually measured it and found that the axis are not 90°. From what I measured on a distance of appr. 80mm I have 1.3mm deviation from 90° angle of my old scool triangle roller. Wow. I did not expect this. What can be done to solve this.

Hi all, I am printing on a Ultimaker 2. bought appr. in 2014. This is not my first Printer. But to be honest I never build one. I bought them assembled so I am not SO much into it. I am printing since quite a long time. This off chause does not mean I may just make a stupid mistake. As I have no Idea and as I could not find a topic wich solves my problem I dare to post this as a new topic. I am printing allot of round stuff. I have printed parts with thread, bottels and all kind of stuff. Also very fine threads with pitch of less then 1mm w/o problem. Allway with perfect roundness and very good accuracy. Since a few month all my prints are not round anymore. They are more like a oval. Squared objects are not correct in XY measures. I calculated a little bit and it seems like all my prints are perfect in X axis. A 80mm round object stays perfectly 80.0mm in X axis. While the Y Axis measures appr 1% less. So a 80mm round circle measure in Y direction only 79,2mm. Wich results in a oval shape. I checked the belts and they are not loose. I did not use a beld spanner so fare as they realy did not seem to be lose. At least there is no noticable difference in Y and X . Also the motor belts are stiff have strong tention. As I have a Ultimaker 2 I tend to think that there should be no movement in the housing, so that I should not need to check angels of the housing.. I hope... Does anybody has a Idea what may chause this? One thing wich "may" be related to this is, that every movement in Y the printer ratles. Like if something is scratching somewhere. I am oiling my rails every few weeks so this should not be the reason. I am very happy to hear your thoughts. Thank you so much! Johannes

Hallo, ich hab mir getreulich alles Links usw. angeschaut, konnte aber nirgends eine Bezugsquelle für den Zuführungsschlauch entdecken. Wie ist der spezifiziert und wo bekommt mann den? Durch einige Probleme hat sich im Schlauch immer mal wieder beim Material zurückführen was verklemmt was ich entfernen musste. Der Schlauch hat dadurch gelitten. Daher brauch ich einen neuen. Kann mir jeman helfen? Beste Grüße, Johannes

Hallo Dirk, danke. Es ist sehr interessant das der Lüfter sofort angeht. Das tat er bei mir nicht. Dann hab ich den Gewebeschlauch zurück geschoben und die Stecker Kabel usw überprüft. Alle ok zusammengesteckt usw. Messegrät hab ich gerade verliehen. Hab mal vorsichtig an den Kabeln gezupft und siehe da, eines der Kabel für den kleinen Lüfter war locker und ist einfach raus gerutscht. Das konnte ich einfach reparieren. Jetzt geht der Lüfter wieder. Ich bin bespannt ob jetzt meine Drucke besser werden. Erstmal danke für die HIlfe? P.S. Ich bin etwas erschrocken über die Qualität der Lötstellen an den Steckern. Ehrlich, da hätte ich mir mehr erwartet. BG Johannes

Hallo, Hab seit einiger Zeit Problem mit dem Drucken. Material wird nicht mehr transportiert usw. Ich hab auf das Cold End PTFE Coupler gesetzt. Der ist bestellt und kommt bald. Allerdings ist mir dabei noch was aufgefallen. Der kleine Lüfter hinten am Druckkopf läuft nicht mehr. Kann mir jemand helfen. Wann fängt der an zu laufen. Normalerweise? Und wie kann ich ermitteln ob der Lüfter selber defekt ist oder nur das Kabel oder der Stecker usw. Gibt es irgendwo eine Einstellung mit der mann den Lüfter wirklich einschalten kann um zu sehen ob er defekt ist oder nicht. Ich denke mal das der nicht in den Regelkreis der seitlichen Lüfte reinbezogen ist sondern nur angeht, wenn das Hot End zu überhitzen droht. Ich bin für eure Hilfe dankbar. Beste Grüße, Johannes

The Material seems to be colerfabb XT. A genious material. I like it the most. Give it a try... The bridging is amazing. I had problems recently with PLA and got better results with reducing the heat. But not compareable with the video. I will try again with XT.

All clear for me. Thank you!

@ Valcrow: Good tipp. Thank you. In this case my object is way smaller then the value. @ illuminarti: I used the settings wich comes when instaling Cura and select U2. It say´s 55mm for the gantry height. Do you suggest to use 48 instead? But for now I am fine with "print all at once". This is what I need, as the prints are to small and collect to much heat. I allready have the bed at 50° and the nossel at 195°. (Blue tape) With the print all at once, my overhang and surface became much better! Also I can print much more objects on one plate and dont have to start new prints to often... This is a economical question for me. More parts on one plate is better. Only some residues from jumping back an forth remain. But this is ok for me. Off topic: Congratulation for the new Raft in 14.05 RC4. This works frightening good!!!

whew... I did not loose my face. Thank you!

it could not be more obvious... Sorry and thank you very much..

HI, can anybody help me to find the setting "print all at one". My U2 keep´s printing on at a time no matter what I change... thanky you for suggestions... Best regards, Johannes

Can someone send me the linke where I can get the TEST2 version?

Hi Community, I owned a Ultimaker 2 resently and have some experiences with other printers I owned in last year. I am well in process of getting some good prints out of the U2. No I have on stupid question regarding Cura. How can I switch of the function wich print´s one part after the other. First I can print much less on one buildplate and second for small parts I need more cooling time for the individual layers. Therefore I was used to print many on one plate. I am sure there is a obvious solution to the problem. But I am not able to find it... Thanks for your help! Best regards, Johannes