sensebellum
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Posts posted by sensebellum
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I am having trouble keeping the build plate level between prints.
I dial it in, calibrate it, and it prints great.
Then, EVERY time I go for a new print, without even turning it off, the plate, when it comes time to lay down the first layer, is many millimeters off (either +/-).
How do I fix it so it goes back to the same place every time instead of needing to calibrate before every print...
Thanks for any tips!
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Found a fix here
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I have seen my axels start to move back and froth. They push out a little bit on the ends of the case.
I have noticed it shifts my print so it is a problem.
How do I fix this?
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I wanted to take a poll and see the different rates of success for Ultimaker 2 owners. I have been using this machine for about 6 months and am getting about a 25% completion rate. That is, 1 in 4 prints make it out of the machine. (Printing things that take under an hour)
My friend said that is dismal, but for me this is a good streak.
What is your normal success rate?
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I am looking to get this file printed and shipped: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/alternative-um2-feeder-version-two
I live in Washington State. I am looking for a quote on price to print and ship. I have PayPal and that would be my preferred method. Hoping for something under $20. Thank you
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I looked at the site but did not see any tips. I sent out an email however.
Unfortunately, the time it takes for shipping, plus the cost, is just not in range.
I am looking at getting these replacements from Amazon though. It should work just fine eh?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L4VFV1M/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1KMIWXKO7K6U2
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Hello,
Is there anywhere else to get a replacement tip for a UM2, maybe somewhere in the USA?
I want to order a new one but the shipping is nearly $50, x3 for what the tip costs. Kind of a hassle.
Anyone know of a replacement?
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I also did not see that Printed Solid did in fact ship to the USA now. I do think that is a first choice.
As for the related thread, that is a good point of reference, I did not see that upon first glance.
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I am looking to find a good quality filament supplier in the United States.
I have been ironing out the kinks in my workflow and I've found the best results with the better quality filaments - fairly understandable.
But what I've been looking for are quality filament suppliers in the USA.
I am willing to pay for the quality but am trying to avoid the shipping from Europe.
The Ultimaker HQ recommended this product, however it is in the UK: http://www.printedsolid.com/product-category/pla-pha/
What brands would you recommend?
Thanks
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These are some fantastic links. I really appreciate the variety of designs.
I believe I will have to spend a full day researching these options and decide which one to print and test.
Thank you so much for the support I believe one of these holds the key to unlocking the true potential of this machine!
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Hello,
I have been having problems with my stock extruder. For whatever reason - poor quality filament, cheap design - I am looking into making a new one. I really can't afford to keep having it stall in the middle of a print.
Anyways, I wanted to check with the community on the favorite extruder versions and why?
The last one I listed here looks great and has many adjustments. Also adjusting the tension on the filament seems like a must. What are some features to look for when upgrading this part?
How have you gotten past slippage in the past? And did this solve the problem?
I see there are at least 3 different modifications on the YouMagine site. Posted in order of likes:
Alternative UM2 Feeder - version two by IRobertI
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/alternative-um2-feeder-version-two#!design-information
Extruder UM2 Version 2 by Geeks
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/extruder-um2-version-2#!design-information
feeder for "Ultimaker 2 Rail System" by UltiArjan
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/feeder-for-ultimaker-2-rail-system#!design-information
Thank you for the insight.
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To recap, the fix was as follows:
The bed was not heating up, although the extruder nozzle was. I checked the connections underneath the printer on the microcontroller - all good.
Next, I checked the wires leading to the buildplate. I found a faulty solder to the heating element. This was because some plastic had gotten in there and a heating/cooling cycle ensued. Similar to how ice cracks open rocks this led to a break in the solder connection.
Remember to keep your printer clean! Special thanks to the Ultimaker team for helping me out with this one!
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After much tinkering last night I found no solution (sometimes waiting 30+ minutes to see if it was truly "warming up").
This morning, I woke up to a working UM2.
A happy resolution.
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Great ideas guys. I am going to try the soldering iron first and see if the flat edge can weld much. If that doesn't work I may move up to the glass sheets - I will advise
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I have been using my UM2 today and after I printed the last object it will no longer go past the "Heating Up..." mode as shown in the picture.
I looked into the setting and the nozzle is not heating up on its own. I used to be able to fix this by manually setting it and the wheels got turning.
However, I tried many things - wipe SD card, turn off machine, different models, different slicers, factory reset - and the result is the same. Note, that the calibration methods and test extrusion worked after factory reset during the "initial out of box calibration". Yet, once past that, still stuck in this mode...
How else should I go about troubleshooting?
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I am interested in baking, or technically annealing, 3D printed parts.
I would like to make a detailed and patterned mesh. Something like a bug screen on a window. I need it to be much larger than the print bay though.
So I was thinking of printing out sections and overlapping the edges, putting a glass panel on the surface, and trying to bake or "fuse" them through heat. Given the correct heat and duration I am thinking this would be possible. Especially in something that lays flat.
I was thinking of glue but it makes a terrible mess and blocks the fine mesh holes.
Thanks for any tips or ideas.
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@UltiMagic. You do not need to cycle the temperature. You have to evaporate the rests of oil in the noozle...and... in the bowden! So You have to print something and I guess that high temp increases the evaporation of oil. I was playing with temp.
Adding a washer is a very good idea. Which size did you use?
The alternative to adding a washer is MK7 or MK8 drive gears. A picture of Mk7 follows:
But it costs about 7 euros.
If you part is breaking... it is because it is made of ABS? I begin to think that PLA is better... better adhesion between layers.
Brilliant idea to make a hole for oiling!!
Does this work with the UM2 Stock feeder?
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I was wondering if it would be straightforward to adjust the Ultimaker 2 firmware so that the fan, particularly the extrusion head fan, does not spin while idling - a state such as after turning on the machine.
It is incredibly noisy and does not seem to need to be on during these times so I would like to disable that feature in the firmware.
Before I dig in, has anybody already done this?
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I would agree with EldRick, the All-Purpose Elmers glue stick is superb. I've gotten the best results from using that kind.
http://www.amazon.com/Elmers-All-Purpose-Glue-Sticks-E517/dp/B000U6FJQE
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Great advice everyone.
I found that unenabling all of the "Fix Horrible" options allowed the holes to be rendered but subsequently caused other problems in the model. I then exported the Sketchup model as an .stl file and it was loaded cleanly.
Jonnybischof, oddly enough there was no red in the x-ray view that I saw.
I'll be sure to set the resolution for future projects more finely detailed, thanks for the tip mnis.
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I would love to find a replacement fan for the UM2 as well. It is very very noisy. The connections are tight, it is almost as if the fan itself is loose somewhere internally. This is the center fan to be precise.
Has anyone by chance found a 5V PWM fan that works?
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I am having some trouble getting CURA to recognize certain holes in my model.
The hole is present in Sketchup, also in CURA's "Normal" and "X-Ray" view. But when I look at the actually layers it omits this hole completely - and in actuality as I found out at the end of a print. I tried a few different customizations and also the stock options and the paths were rendered just the same. It also ignores them regardless if the file is a .dae or .stl
How can I rectify this?
Also, is there a guide for formatting the models correctly for CURA? I would be interested in learning some of the tricks.
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I am having some trouble getting CURA to recognize certain holes in my model.
The hole is present in Sketchup, also in CURA's "Normal" and "X-Ray" view. But when I look at the actually layers it omits this hole completely - and in actuality as I found out at the end of a print. I tried a few different customizations and also the stock options and the paths were rendered just the same. It also ignores them regardless if the file is a .dae or .stl
How can I rectify this?
Also, is there a guide for formatting the models correctly for CURA? I would be interested in learning some of the tricks.
Keep the Plate Level
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
After adjusting the firmware I was able to get a MUCH more consistent level on the print bead between jobs.
Thanks for all the hard work, that really helped dial in the experience!