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  1. Yep, that's how I did it. Excess blobs of plastic get stuck to the mouth of the nozzle or the outsides many times as they solidify with cooling. More then not they're not easily removed just by "scraping" or fingers or anything. So you do have to heat up the nozzle and just gently wipe it off with a paper towel or a piece of paper. Be aware though, the nozzle heats up pretty high and the heat gets through the paper towel or paper pretty fast. Watch your fingers
  2. Great stuff guys, am missing working with "my" 3D printer. :(
  3. Hi laserb, well the first layer touches the glass buildplate, which is basically the only reason the bottom surface is so smooth and shiny well at least to my knowledge.
  4. Hi Andrea, with the pyramid it looks like overhang issues, with the vase I would say stringing is an issue. The first thing you can do is check this http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide made by Robert. You can find all or most of the common issues when getting to know the 3D printing world. Other then that, I am sure you will get a more detailed answer from some of the more experienced guys soon enough.
  5. Hi jhertzberg, we are using 3MENSIO programme - http://www.3mensio.com/ that has a module for exporting DICOM files to STL. It is sadly not free software and the export isn't that easy either. I have spoken to a guy on thingieverse who did an DICOM - STL conversion fairly good and he said he uses Invesalius that you also mentioned. I personally have not gotten to explore that particular piece of software yet, but I plan to. OsiriX (Mac only) is suppose to do a good job too, but is not that easy to use (so I've heard). The STL database (japanese) that Jemma is mentioning you can find here:
  6. damn that's a nice bracelet pm_dude
  7. Yea this is a very cool topic, kudos to you Jemma. I am currently on a short project where we're using MRI, CT and OCT scan 3D data to print out various structures of the human body, we have plans for the future to go into a more human body friendly printing. I see you're already on it looking very much forward to your future updates and posts.
  8. Just found a solution on the forum for Meshmixer users. Either you delete the meshmixer.ini file every now and then or you should check your settings in the under "Supports" the ratios between scale and support upper and lower diameters, if they're really screwed Meshmixer kinda doesn't know what to do with it and just gives up The whole read @ http://meshmixer.com/forum/index.php?topic=1772.msg3960#msg3960
  9. Thinking like 0.1 or even up to 0.2 and higher?
  10. Well that's encouraging since I have 3 spools of Natural's on the shelf and I won't have to wait for the XT, but this is translucent vs. transparent I'm thinking off to testing, will post results when I'm done.
  11. Thanks for this extensive testing of the model with Colorfabb's XT material, just as you said the number 6 and 8 do seem best, I would go for number 6. Will use your settings and try it with the "Transparent Red" I received from Colorfabb. Will also most certainly invest in a spool or two of the XT, it seems a material to be played with, capable of achieving some really cool results. Looking forward to your results with the translucent green and blue.
  12. Yep you're right, again my mistake - sorry, will dig deeper next time before coming here with questions thanks
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