juha-lehtinen

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Well those towers had 0.5mm thick walls...so they weren't solid. Temp used on tower = 230C It's pretty weird that i can only see outer shell from top and bottom, but at the middle outer shell looks just like the infill. I also noticed that the quality of my prints got better when i manually slowed the speed to 60mm/s and set material flow to 105-110% (while nozzle heat is 230C).

I have made that gcode testing, when i started to make my research... Just sent some of my results to that part of forums (http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4586-can-your-um2-printer-achieve-10mm3s-test-it-here/)

I have done some research on UM2 printers... Below are some of my results VG= very good quality G= good quality numbers from 3 to 10 (3 is worst and 10 is the best) When i tried that "speed testing"-gcode, i got these results: UM2 UM2 original machine settings: Results when i increased nozzles heat up to 230C:

Here are some of my other printings with the same UM2 printer: Batman Begins 23h printing 75% fill and pretty much same settings as the "hook" A own model of testing towers with two UM2 printers (same settings/g-code): 200mm tall and 50x50 bottom, 35x35 top 50% fill 80 mm/s printing speed Blue one is marked as machine 19 and white one is from machine 21, machine 19 is the problem one just like we can see from the quality... PLA blue and PLA white

Filament was PLA blue (Ultimakers own material) Nozzle temperature = 230 C plat form temp = 75 C When i use basic/simple settings, prints are good quality. Also i have printed much better quality items than that "hook" one. The one which i am having problems, prints UM2 robot and stackable-cup perfectly.

Hello I noticed at some point that my printings quality has turned into bad. I am bit suprised of this quality because others can print good quality prints, but i dont know that point is wrong and why... My Cura settings with last one that i printed: Basic Layer height : 0.1 mm Shell thickness : 1 mm Enable retraction (check) Bottom/Top thickness: 1 mm Fill Density: 50% Print speed: 100 mm/s Advanced Nozzle size: 0.4 mm Initial layer thickness: 0.0 Cut off bottom: 0.0 Dual extrusion overlap: 1.5 mm (we use single extruder) Travel speed: 80 mm/s Bottom layer speed: 30 mm/s Infill speed: 0.0 mm/s Outer shell speed: 0.0 mm/s Inner shell speed: 0.0 mm/s Minimal layer time: 5 sec Enable cooling fan (check) Plugins Pause height: 5.0mm Head park X: 190 mm Head park Y: 190 mm REtraction amount: 5 mm Tweak At Z 3.1.1 Z height to tweak at: 5 mm (rest is just zeros) Here is pictures of my printing (a hook holder, own design) 9mm layers are very bad quality and 12mm layer is better not what i wanted. Here we can see that outer shell haven't stuck to the infill.

I know well this, but that won't help me... I had started printing on Friday and the printer printed the object about 3-4hours (object was 49hours long printing). So when the nozzle jammed, it also burned for 48hours (whole weekend), that is why it is really hard stuck in nozzle. And just like i have told before, heating up doesn't really work on carbon, because carbon is dry and burned wood.

I have now mismantled the nozzle as much as possible, but i wasn't able to remove nozzle from the wires nor from the heater. Once i had removed all other parts from the nozzle, i started to clean/remove the burned wood/carbon. I used 2mm and 3mm diameter drills, drilled from the top hole (which is the bigger hole, about 3.5mm diameter)...I drilled the hole with fingers just in case that i wont damage the nozzle much. I also used "atomic method" now when the i had only the nozzle in tongs. While trying to clean the nozzle i burned 4-5 times my fingers, but i managed to clean lots of the dried carbon. At the moment nozzle is still jammed, because i can't clean the little extruding hole...I don't have any nails that would be smaller than 0.4mm diameter. Ultimaker2 nozzle...dismantled Nozzle still stuck...all the black dots on platform are the burned/dried carbon from the nozzle

Yeah, "atomic method" might take pretty long time. Needle method sounds good, just need to find a needle that is 0.4 mm or less of diameter. Dismantleing is bit difficult, because there are so many screws... and it might mess up the calibrations? thank you for tips

Hello I am working in ADD LAB, which tests and does research on 3D-printers. We got here 3x Ultimaker2, but one is now out off use, because its nozzle is jammed. Jammed ultimaker2: We have been printing objects with it by using wooden filament, and the results have been really nice. Few days ago filament stuck into nozzle. I have tried all kind of thing to get it out, without a success. I have tried: - heating nozzle up to 200 degrees > stick a filament into extruding hole > cool down nozzle to 90 degrees > pull out the filament - tried to drill with a 2mm diameter driller (rolling it with fingers) from up to down through the extruder hole. Anyone got any good ideas to clean the nozzle? I dont really want to dismantel the whole nozzle structure. "Heating up and wait for the filament to liquid out" -idea isn't working PLA smelts in to liquid, but wooden filament is made of 50% of PLA and 50% wood...Wood doesn't smelt at all.