Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Hi, thanks for the reply. I've done the diagnostics (previously) to test the capacitive sensor (check the wires, reseat cables, no ESD interferences etc etc) (and I've also replaced it with a brand new one to check if that was the issue and it did not fix it). I always get a "offset probe not working properly". I tried running the diagnostic tool for the sensor as well under maintenance and it would fail (but I can't remember the error message). What's worse really is often the nozzle doesn't even get anywhere near the build plate (literally around 20 mm away) and it would detect that as failu
  2. Hey, thanks for the reply and bringing the thread to my attention. I did have a read of that thread but not anyone has really given much specifics to the autolevelling but I'm glad it is an issue that has been raised. I was thinking maybe there would be an official announcement not to update this "stable" release if it is causing so many issues.
  3. So based on the lack of reply I guess my issue is isolated? Strange, I've encountered it on both UM3 I have access 😕
  4. I'm writing this post as a warning to others and to also get a gauge of whether this is an issue in the community. So I have UM3 extended and recently I did the auto update from firmware 4.33 to 5.28. Immediately after, the autolevelling stop working. It actually took me awhile to figure out why it stopped working. Before I get into it, I want to mention, the autolevelling system on the UM3 has always been very very sensitive, that is, it will only work if I have the screws on the build plate at a particular "depth". This is not just for one machine, I've tested it on 2 and if I don't have th
  5. Is it only on one of the motors for you? Yes, well one direction, I think when it moves either x or y, it vibrates so hard that my whole machine moves. It hasn't significantly affected my print accuracy though, but I did notice with my UM2 I have to print at much higher than original temperatures to get the filament to not under extrude (probably a separate issue and have not bothered to diagnose it since I've been using the UM3 a lot more).
  6. Thanks, will definitely check and secure all the connections tomorrow once I bring in my screw driver set. At the moment it's around 3 hours in and still printing, fingers cross it'll keep going while I sleep.
  7. Now that you mention it, my UM2 does the exact same thing. It wasn't like this in the past hmm...
  8. Hi everyone, So I've been printing with a UM3 extended a little under a year with little to no issues up to now. Recently, our department relocated to a new building and we hired professional movers to move the equipment. However, today after I setup the printer again to do a 18 hour print I started experiencing problems. Firstly, I did an active build plate leveling and it was not able to detect when to stop pushing the print head onto the build plate. I tried 3 times and each time it would keep pressing onto the build plate to the extent I shut it down in fear that it will cause permanent
  9. So I'm looking to print something that needs to meet a certain strength requirement, namely it has to have to be relatively stiff. I have already tried the typical PLA, ABS and PETG materials but they're all not stiff enough for the purposes I was hoping. Is there any suggestions what materials I should look at and where I can potentially get them? Thanks in advance.
  10. So I have a UM3 and I've noticed a consistent problem, especially with the PVA material, that is, during the initial extrusion of the filament, the initial knead of material tends to get dragged into the print instead of staying at the location it was extruded in. This happens with PLA as well but at a much rarer occurrence but pretty much happens every time with the PVA. The temp solution I've done to stop this from affecting/ruining the print is to wait for that stage to occur, have my tweezers ready to pull the knead of material away and make sure it doesn't get pulled in. I notice this hap
  11. Sorry to dig up an old post but man, I followed the suggestion and used the sunon fan suggested above and man the difference was massive! I bought the UM2 about 6 months back and it arrived that noisy to begin with (I kinda thought that was just how it was meant to be). It was so noisy that you could hear it across the room with the doors closed and staying too long in the room made your ears ring. But after changing to this sunon fan, what a difference!, makes almost no noise that I'm having difficulty getting used to the peace.
  12. Sorry for the late reply, thanks for the info, I'm located in NZ and I don't think there are any resellers close by where I am unfortunately. But if it does come to it, I will contact the support it seems. Thanks!
  13. The website only seems to sell spare parts for the UMO. Can't seem to find where I can get spare belts once they've finally worn out. Thanks in advance.
  14. Thanks for the response Guess I'll have to consider the other two options. I'm just trying to figure out how they manage to 3d print wax dental crowns commercially because the equipment exist (http://www.3ders.org/articles/20140514-stratasys-launches-two-highest-precision-wax-3d-printers-for-dental-industry.html) but as with many things in dentistry, the price is obscene (upwards $25k and you can only imagine the upkeep of the wax cost). The claimed resolution on theirs is 50 microns xyz. I guess they must have some secret to it. Thanks a lot again for all the responses!
  • Create New...