bhowiebkr

Canadian grade maple syrup is my secret additive in making it stick! I find the warping and lifting at the corners can be controlled with lots of attached surface area to the bed and the goo. You can see cracking all around the base though. I’m going to try heating the build area more to hopefully fix that. When printing the case compartment, I had to use lots of generated support material under it. But the corners still lifted because there wasn’t any solid foundation to stop them. Next time I’ll try adding thick legs into the model in the corners I remove later and hopefully they don’t crack in half mid print.

I've done another iteration of my cellphone wallet case. This is also my first prints with ABS! Rule #1 when printing with ABS should be any printed upgrades you've made on the printhead with PLA will not live long. My fan duct melted, Then I was confused why I had to keep on leveling the bed. My printheat was melting! Now my new printhead is ABS but all cracked and held together with epoxy. My exhaust fan setup is too strong for ABS so I've had to move my printer into the bathroom so I can run it without the fan. Lastly Getting ABS to stick to the bed worried me in the beginning. Printing this part in ABS wasn't easy but the results look great! I'm now looking into injection molding for the next step.

I've been working on a all-in-one case for my cellphone that can replace my wallet and keychain on most outings. The latest version has enough space for 2 house keys and 4 creditcards. There is also enough room between the back of the phone and the credit cards to stuff a business card or bills in. I’m working on a final version 3 of this case that I’ll print in white ABS vs the blue PLA I’m using now. Later I hope to try and crowdfund design and print a bunch at Shapeways for the top selling phones like iPhone/Google Nexus 5/Samsung Galaxy S5. Examples of custom backs could be a message to a loved one or QR coded business card message. I have a Facebook page if any of you are interest in watching my progress.

checkout Lots of interesting ways He's connected things up. I should of gotten into animatronics instead of CG VFX so much cooler to make things like this for real. Although it's probably a dying industry I'm guessing.

That's an awesome print! It looks like they printed on that angle because the final sculpture's front base has so much of an overhang.

I've printed a 3d scanned Motorcycle Glove I've done a long time ago. It tool 7 hours to print at 0.1 layer height. The print speed was something around 30mm/s. I'm still amazed at how strong and light PLA prints are! I have a whole album of photos of this print.

I order 3 things from the seller. The power supply. The heated bed comes with the relay board and a resistor you need to solder. The power supply is a Meanwell S-350-24. The heated bed has the same holes that the stock acrylic bed has. When I installed the heated bed I drilled out the threads of the black plastic mounts and epoxyed them into the wood. Leveling the bed is now done under the Z-stage because I’m no longer able to get to the top for leveling. When mounting a fan on the top, you’ll need to find a way to isolate the fan vibration from the printer. In my case I used several layers of Sorbothane in the corners of the plexiglass top box where it rests ontop of the printer. The fan I used was from home depot This is a 70 CFM but I think something less than half that would serve better.

I ran into another problem the vibration from the exhaust fan was shaking the printing surface too much causing bad quality prints. I have a Sorbothane sheet that I’ve cut some corners to prop up the plexiglass top with. The sorbothane completely isolates all vibration from the fan and also leaves an air gap between it and the printer for less air turbulence in the printing chamber.

Here’s some photos of things I’ve added to the printer. The fumes were becoming a problem for me even with printing PLA but with this setup that’s no longer an issue. Unfortunately the AC fan is far too strong for this, so I’ve been looking into what can be done to adjust it. The AC fans speed is set by the frequency of the AC line and variable frequency drivers are expensive so I’m thinking about having an adjustable vent at the top that can be used to bleed in air. That way I can keep the bottom of the chamber heated better. The cross flow fan approach might work well for this setup

Like a switching power supply? I should change it to that in the future, It's just I have a whole bunch of 12v regulators from other projects doing nothing

I don’t have the heated bed yet but the one I’ve gotten shipped comes with a small board that drives a relay for switching the bed on and off. It’s probably not too loud compared to all the other stuff I have attached like stepper fans. Under the frame I have 12v bus using 4 LM7812 for max 4 amps total. They are powering 4 stepper motor fans and some LED lighting. I need to get another aluminium heatsink to help disperse the heat from the regulators, maybe split the thing in two. I have got all the windows on the frame all enclosed with plexiglass I should have some photos soon.

Same here, chrome isn't working and I couldn't get it working in IE

Haha couldn’t wait. Well I got the missing bearings I needed to complete the ultimaker original build. I’ve started printing some parts with mostly success and one failure. See the album I just put up .

It did come with the arduino. I was going to swap it out with an older arduino mega 1280 but was having too many issues with getting it to read over the serial port consistently. I’ve since put the 2560 back in for now.

I just ordered it! I got the glass heated bed and power supply. I’ll do the 3-point leveling mod on it too.

I’m planning on a bunch of upgrades to the original ultimaker and looking for some thoughts and opinions on things. The biggest requirements are printing ABS and managing the fumes. Heatbad I’m looking at the one ALU Heatbad MK3 here: http://reprap.me/heatbed/alu-240.html It can take either 12v or 24v I’m thinking of getting included the temp sensor, glass and insulator. I’ll need an external power supply but should I go with 12v or 24v? what is the max power requirements I should look for. What is the best way to drive the output from the power supply. Can I use a big power mosfet? or should I go for ones of these all in one boards: http://reprap.me/heatbed/power-expander.html Heat Chamber I’m going todo something similar to this: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:88456 I have two cats and one loves wires so I need to enclose this thing. I’m in an apartment so when printing with ABS I need to vent the fumes. A small PC fan to create just enough negative pressure that could be used to draw out the fumes of the chamber while not cooling the chamber down too quickly. putting a blown out candle inside the chamber I think can be used for testing air leaks and negative pressure. I know there are many more countless upgrades I’ll do but these are the two bigger ones I’m planning first.

So I’ve gotten as far as I can without bearings, I’ve tested out the electronics and I can get the 3-axis motors moving. I got Marlin running on the Arduino Mega 1280 but I had to upload the firmware manually using the Arduino IDE. Cura for whatever reason wouldn’t upload the firmware. So now it looks like I’ll have to wait for bearings to complete the build.

I think They are all the same length. I'll file it down. Great thing now is I can soon enough just print out upgrades!

I'll file it down a touch for the amount of thread I need on the bottom I’m almost about finished with what I can build without bearings. I have all the parts for the feeder minus the bearings so I’ll finish up with what I can make for the X-Y axis then test the electronics out. I’ll test out the motors and electronics with cura and after see if I can make it run on a smaller arduino mega 1280 I have laying around.

I’ve gotten the Extrusion head built and just got a couple questions. The top two photos show a gap where the long studding bolts thread into the aluminum plate. This is because the PEEK is too thick? will this cause any alignments issues in the future? On photo 3 did anyone notice when building that the nut that threads onto the long bolt has no thread. this is the long bolt that goes into the black plastic on the top. This might be fixed by rotating the black plastic part on the top to be facing the right side instead of the front. That way the long bolt would be long enough to get all the threads at the bottom where the fan is mounted. Other than that I put each wire down its own hole instead of all going into one hole. I’ve read that there could be some noise from the fan wires on the thermocouple wires.

Ticket ID: NES-412-30849 I mentioned in the Ticket the 8mm bearings, were missing but not the 12mm linear bearings. I think I’m just missing that one bag which should contain all 8mm bearings, 12mm linear bearings and grease. Is there an easy way to test out the electronic ultimaker shield? I was thinking of connecting up the motors and limit switches and powering it up just to check everything there is working. On the firmware does it have some kind of self diagnostic on power up that moves the steppers? Mostly I want to make sure all those little stepper motor drivers are functioning. Overall I’m impressed at how well the kit is designed and the quality of the laser cut wood parts is excellent. I’ve been building the kit with blue lock tight on any metal on metal fasteners which is probably a good thing but takes much longer to built. Hold off on sending that bag right now, I’ll finish what else I can just to be sure I’ve got everything and if its all good, you can send out those missing parts.

I started a ticket before with a priority of high, If it’s going to take a couple weeks for someone to look into it, I’ll submit another ticket tomorrow with critical priority. But I’ll continue the build to see if anything else is missing

I have the 2 linear bearings that run on the 6mm rails but they were loose in a bag of other bags.

I’ve started building the original ultimaker and was wondering if the current firmware can fit onto an arduino mega 1280 without any issues.

I’ve started on the Z-stage but the 12mm linear bearings are also missing I guess those are part of the bearing bag I’m missing.