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renthal

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Everything posted by renthal

  1. I put some serious thought and time into the over heating issue and redesigned the existing hot end. My version will mount to the existing hot end carrage system. It will require only 2 new plates and a small heat shield to be machined and supports existing fans and heat sinks. I put a thermal break and radiant shield inbetween the heads to reduce heat transfer and allow for stable multi-tempiture printing. The fans can be set for push pull or pull-- pull however this needs to be tested to see what option is better. The best part is this setup could be machined and tested in a few days at very little cost. I hope the UM team at least trys my design and if it works great!. You could donate the first production dual head printer to me to assist in making accessible PS3 controllers for disabled gamers. Being Sony refuses to make such a controller because it wouldn't make them a large profit. Tell me what you think guys. I believe it will work great and may try to make my own to test if I can get my local machine shop to help me out.
  2. All set now, thank you for the information.
  3. I can't vote here or post in the dual extruder section for some reason. I use sketchup for my 3d printing models. With a few plugins the free version is fast and easy to use. The only hard part is making sure your model stays solid as you build. I used sketchup, inkscape, and eagle cad to design and build a wireless handycapt accessible PS3 controller for quadriplegics. This is the main reason I bought my UM2. I'm glad I got 1 complete set of parts printed before UE issues downed my machine but a new nylon piece is on the way so I should be up and running in a week or so. . I will add pics after the Orlando maker fair.
  4. The headder wrap would only be put between the hot end and aluminum plate on duel extruders for extra thermal insulation reducing the cooling needed. Not wraped around the entire hotend. your printer may work great stock but at the moment mine is a Under Extruding paper weight. I do have a new glass filled nylon piece comming so we will see what happens. I have a booth reserved at the Orlando maker fair to display my handycapt accessible ps3 controllers I use my printer to make so i'm trying to get it printing right by then. But no matter what it's going to be displayed and will be printing UE or not. http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3803-ultimaker-2-dual-extrusion/
  5. Unrelated but I can't post in the dual extruder topic why is this? I assume it's due to my low post count/ new user but if that is true is there a way around this? I don't want to post a bunch of non constructive posts just to have enough aproved posts to be able to take part in the discussion. My idea is to use a small piece of headder wrap (a kevlar material used to wrap performance exhaust headders that protects ignition wires on dragsters from melting and reduces engine compartment heat.) to insulate the hot ends and reduce radiant heat along with a redesigned heat sink that would add cooling fins to the front as well.
  6. Back in the under extruding club again sigh...... I have Roberts low friction spool holder installed and it is great. I went through and did several cold pulls untill the hotend was clean but with the bowden removed pushing filament through by hand takes a lot of force. The filament extrudes strait and clean but I can feel a lot of resistance. When assembled the feeder skips as soon as the printer begins to prime the hotend and through out the print. I use quality filament from Protoparadigm here are my settings below. I am to the point where a full hotend teardown is next to check the teflon insulator but need a replacement on hand before I go that far. Being I have to talk someone through the process due to my non working fingers. I just need this printer to work reliably and it just is not happening yet. 230/60 temp 200 microns 40mm/s cura 14.7
  7. That sounds good but shipping out 10 spools would cost almost as much as buying the new roll. If the spools are ABS they would make for great plastic stock for home brew filament if you can grind them down enough. I think if the filament companies were to design 2 piece spools that are reloadable would be great. That way you have the option to buy a complete spool or if you already have a few empty 2 piece spools you simply order a refill spool that is wound on some sort of easy to recycle cardboard center for a few dollars less. Then you have less expence and waist.
  8. I am far from your average user and count my self very lucky that I can even manage to operate my printer without any finger function as I do. I know the machine and understand what it needs to operate smooth my only draw back is my limmited physical ability that keeps me from fixing some of the issues on my own. I am lucky enough to have a friend with the same machine who helps me out when I get stuck with an issue I can't physicaly fix on my own. In time I will solve most of my problems with adaptive tools and mods to the printer to make it more accessable to me. For now Thank you all for your help and know I read and pay close attention to all helpful posts here. However I can only apply some of the proposed solutions at this time.
  9. I'd love to, but as a quadriplegic this is not possible for me to deal with a spool on the floor on my own. Plus my printer sits on a countertop with no overhangs allowing me the needed access to manage printing and allow for a floor mounted spool.
  10. Update, I had a good friend help me do several cold pulls to clean out my hot end and after 7-10 pulls the tip was clear of burnt PLA. After this was done the test printed to completion with no issues at 1.5 amps, stock spool holder, roller filament guide, 230c, protoparadigm silver PLA. I still got some periodic UE through following prints but believe it is due to my spool being 1/2 way through and not unwinding smooth. I hope to solve this with a custom filament straitener one day but I am up and printing useable parts so I count this as a win..
  11. Update... After reading through hundreds of posts something like 35+ pages about under extrusion here. I added another roller guide and boosted the feeder amperage to 1.5a. I was able to hit 7mm3/s before UE took place. I happened to be watching the moment it started so I raised the temp to 240c and it recovered untill 9mm3/s then UE returned. It is an improvement but still needs help. I printed a nice 608 bearing spool holder to help even more and may design my own bearing filament guides as well. I will run the test again after I get my bearings in and install the new spool holder. I only print in PLA http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3976-almost-always-missing-layers-underextruding/
  12. I wish I never tried this test as my 3 week old machine with less then 100 hours on it failed horribly. At 5mm/3s problems started. Temp 230c bed 60c.... I could hear the motor either skip a step or the drive gear slip I can'T tell what one is happening but it happens way to easy. I cleaned the hot end to get out any possible burnt PLA deposits. I also installed a brand new roll of quality filament, added a roller filament guide, and still got terrible results. I was going to up the feeder amps but you left out some information. I could open and edit the gcode in word pad but when I save the file it changes to a text doc that doesn't get read by my printer. I looked around but couldn't find how to save it as gcode so it can be used. Any help would be great as I am getting useless parts unless they are printed at 20-30mms or slower. My printer started strong but now it's quickly becoming a migraine trying to chase down what is causing the under extrusion and it's getting worse with each print. I don't feel this is how a NEW printer in this price range should function. It's like buying a sports car that test drives great but when you get it home you find out it has a bad transmission and the dealer knew about it. It looks great but you can't drive it faster then 30mph and now it's your problem. I don't want to be super negative but $3,000.00 is a huge investment for me and I just need it to work as advertised period. So add my printer to the list of poor performers. I will try loosening the hot end screws some but being the printer had no issues on day one. But I think that if this was an issue it would have had an effect right out of the gate but I will try every suggestion on here in hopes of finding a solution.. I'm not angry just stressed out..........fingers crossed a real solution will be provided by the UM team soon.
  13. I've been printing at 220-225c, 200 microns, 40mm/s bed 60c. room 80 degrees F. I saved a strand that I pulled from the hot end and I guess an easy way to see if it is ABS is get some acetone and drop it in and see if it melts.
  14. It would help others greatly if you tell us what the cause and solution to your issue was if you don't mind.
  15. One more update, as I just got a bill from Fedex for duty fees and some sort of advancement charge 2 weeks after I accepted the printer. This is disapointing however the amount was low, $32.00 but still 2 weeks later I get a bill I can't contest because I already accepted the package is bogus. I should have been told before I agreed to accept the package but this is a fedex issue not UM. I just want to warn others. I would have agreed to pay it up front I'm just bothered by how Fedex handled it.. As for the printer, it still prints however the feeder is joining the slipping club after only 1 full spool of printing causing under extrusion. I also am getting ABS particles in my prints from the feeder case wearing already. "The filament has only been changed once with quality filament from Protoparidime." This printer has only ever printed PLA gold and orange and I now see dark black stringy blemishes in some prints and had to removed one clog with a wire poked into the nozel. It is clearly ABS intrusion as the black doesnt stick to the PLA it melts out a strand and drags it around untill the PLA pushes it all out. I didn't have this ABS issue untill I did the filament change. I think that when the feeder reverses the filament the rough edge left by the drive gear acts like a file on the case. I also recomend all new buyers go through and check all the screws to make sure they are tight as my machine had the screws back out that support the z axis lead screw nut along with a few other loose screws. Also the LED strips started falling down allowing the wires to rub the axis pullys almost cutting through the wire insulation. Both were simple to fix and should be checked every few prints as basic maitnence. It's a nice machine but is lacking in places that I know are being worked on and hope a viable solution comes soon. For now I just have to print super slow. If you are on the fence, I say if you can wait for the bugs to be worked out then wait untill they fix the issues. Then it will be a solid machine. But if you want a printer now and don't want to wait and don't mind fixing issues with a brand new machine then get one now. There are printable feeder housings that may help untill UM produces a fix.
  16. Last update.......I got my printer Monday morning with no extra duties or tax charge. The main hang up was the 5106 form and power cable $0.00 value. This hung me up for 3 days due to it being a Friday delivery. Fedex delivers on Saturday but the airport shipping department that feeds Fedex does not operate on Saturday so the printer stayed in the hanger untill Monday morning. The box was a little roughed up but with the great pack job by the UM team the printer was in perfect condition. I'd like to thank UM for building a great product but really want to thank who ever tuned my printer. The test print that came with my UM2 was a little rough and made me think I would be spending a good amount of time tuning. However this was far from being true. I'm a c-5 quadriplegic with zero finger dexterity and was able to insert the build plate, level the bed and without anything done to the glass, the very first calibration print came out flawless at 100 microns, 50mm/s, bed 75c, hotend 210c, room 84-f, fans 100%, UM gold PLA. And wow did it stick to the bed I will be making a razor blade scraper to free future prints. This truely was a turn key setup and I couldn't be more excited. I have my first real prints going now and 4 hours in they look great. I will see how they finish but I'm confident they will be fine. I'll get pic's soon
  17. Ok update on my printer.......It was held due to the power cord not having a value and that the invoice was not in US currency along with the guy who handled my 5106 form did not make sure it went through. On a constructive note..... ULTIMAKER TEAM The power cord 0.00 price needs to be changed to 1.00 and the printer reduced by 1.00 this way you keep your inventory strait and remove the issue for future shippments. Also a currency selector option on the shopping cart check out would be great. I hope to never see another person have the power cord value issue on orders shipped after next week as this is not the first time UM has been informed about it causing delays. Yes I'm disapointed my printer is not here but thats life and it did ship sooner then I thought it would, however you can use my experience to prevent future customers the trouble and that would be great. I wont be mad unless I hear about this being an issue again then my faith will be lost because it's a easy fix. You have a good product that is in demand and I hope you can get things running smooth for all.
  18. That kills any future direct orders for me.......I ordered direct from UM after makershed raised it's prices thinking I would save the $300.00 but the extra hassel, wait, and money makes makershed a better option........well when the printer is in stock that is. FYI my order date was 5-5-14 so it only took a 4 weeks to get a shipment email for those watching the lead times. This was a huge surprise for me! I can't wait to print
  19. Ok I was notified my printer shipped the other day " I live in FL USA" and this morning I got a call from a guy saying I needed to send him a 5106 form because the printer is valued over $2500.00. Is this legit as It has a spot for my social security number and i'm leary giving that out with my address. Thats a ID thief wet dream and it worries me. Did anyone else go through this?
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