ronniiraygun

So don't buy a UM3 due to this issue? We found an application that we can't do with our UM3's for inserted bearings which cost us not being able to do this. We replaced our UM2's and now we've lost capabilities in our cluster. On an industrial customer side it would be nice to actually have this feature work. Will this work on the S5?

Is there anybody out there that has a technique to use a larger .8mm printcore to run the infill with a .4mm to build the walls?

I looking at the Fortus 250 yesterday and the rods in there are about 16mm Dia with drive belts that are about twice and thick. The stepper motors look to be about 23's too. You could make the unit more heavy duty or use a carriage and rail system. The price point has to be kept in mind too. I think it would be less expensive to do some of the electrical upgrades then some of the mechanical upgrades.

I do remove the glass enough for cleaning that it doesn't stay level. I use a glue stick on the place w/o any blue tape or slurry. The ABS really stick well with just the glue and can take a little work to get it off the build plate. I tried the slurry with ABS but that's too much work for little benefit. I have not tried hair spray since I never remember to pick it up when I'm shopping (I shave my head).

I just haven't seen the issue with the feeder. I printed a new one when we first got the printer but issue never arose. Any issues we'd had have been with the hot end and Teflon insert. I have seen the feeder issues though but I don't think it's that difficult to solve and many of the users have come up with some good stuff. On that topic. Okay say I'm taking the Wi-Fi and putting it in the win column for now...... One small victory for the users. In regards to the auto bed leveling I have to reset mine every time because it moves every time. In lean manufacturing setup time is wasted time if that's why we automate processes that are repetitive and repeatable. Team Ultimaker I know you haven't stopped working dual extrusion but I agree it's not about the colors, it's about the multiple materials. Getting the tips so they are the same height can be done but it could be hard to do in the machine but I could see a click in system where you could adjust the tips outside of the system aka a quick change nozzle. Not a Makerbot system but one that works.

I agree this will nock down the parts and bleed filament between the heads. The bleeding between the heads is common on the dual head extrusions. I'm confident they will come up with something but it will be a next gen product. Their sales seam to be going well on this product so I don't know what the push would be for them to continue with this aged machine and move onto a fresh design.

I have a UM2 and a Robo3D door stop (It has to go so I'm looking for a replacement). In the office and have been wanting to add a machine at home too but was waiting to see what was coming at CES 2015. I'm not using the printer to tinker it is a tool. My job is to innovate and invent and I need a tool to help me in that endeavor. I'm willing to share my thoughts of items UM could do in the next version since announcing their end of the dual extruder for the UM2. My company also has a sister company that does rapid prototyping AM so I have access to many other methods for a pence. The FDM machines there just don't seem to make as smooth of a part but they have washable supports which is nice. My UM2 is great when I keep up on the maintenance and replace the teflon insert and the hot end every 500 hours or so. The UM2 has been working almost non-stop accept for the weekends since it was purchased last April 2014. I have about 1500-2000 hours on it now (I think that would be considered a heavy a user). I do R & D and use the UM2 for everything for prototyping, jigs, fixtures and making stuff for around the office and the occasional practical joke. Also I exclusively print in ABS over PLA. With that said I was waiting for CES to buy the next gen UM or UM3 or whatever you would like to call it. I don't think what they came out with was bad but I yearn for the next little white box that can do cool stuff. So her is my start of a dream add ons. I will be buying 1 or 2 more machines this year but I'm also looking to the future. 1> Dual Extrusion with multiple materials. I know as an engineer I could get this to work and I know you can to. I don't know what patents are out there to work around but there are retraction systems out there that work. One idea off of the top of my head would be to still use the same relative footprint but use a piezo electric element on top of the head and away from the heat to retract the hot end unit .5-1mm. The spring would still be there to push the element down in a de-energized state. Two things would be low, the voltage and the cost. I've done something similar so I know I could move the hot end without an issue. You could maybe have a feed gate on the tip also to block out any dripping. 2> Auto bed leveling. PrintBot did it and so can you. There are a plethora of options here from very cheap to really expensive. I think a low cost unit is easily doable. 3> On board memory.. Why? See the next post 4> Wifi.... Full control over wifi with fire and forget. 5> Higher temps for nylon and poly carbonate. 6> Filament Feed sensor. If the unit clogs it would be nice to know and have it shut down or email you letting you know. 7> Maybe a webcam.... Not sure but maybe.

Mine frequent out also on 15 as well as my printer. I went back to 14 and all was well. On 15 my parts disappeared and the printer went nuts. The printer going nuts may have been not updating the firmware on the UM2.

i have been having the same problem with the under extrusion or retraction issue. I don't know which. My settings are shown below and my prints come out almost the same if not worse than the arch shown. This has been a constant issue of late. Hotend 260 C Bed 90 C Flow 107 (when I bump it to 120% it clears up a little bit) 70mm/s travel .4mm nozzle Fan is off. And for the guys that have to know all my settings I will keep a few to myself but the LED's are set to 25%

I'm a mechanical engineer and have an UM2 and Robo3D (door stop or desk holder upper I can't decide which it is). We bought the UM2 last summer and it's been my little buddy so I'm thinking of getting another one for home. My one quandary is why the price isn't dropping when the Euro is in free fall the last couple of months. Am I better off ordering one from Ultimaker in Europe in Euro's which today was $2171 or from Dynamism here in the US? I've been watching the exchange rate but the US prices have not been matching the drop.

I found a sleeved bearing and tubing combination that could be easy to try with little modification to the original extruder. 7751K72 $15.45 from mcmaster and tube 51825K52

After reading through a lot of these posts and looking at the issues I think we have a materials issue between the knurl and metal bearing. The ABS or PLA is a softer material i.e. you are squishing a 14MPa material between to 600Mpa materials (numbers are a best guest approximattion). By doing so it will always be the PLA or ABS that must yield and grind down resulting in a feeding issue. With that basis has anybody tried using a urethane wrapped guide bearing instead of a steel one. If the durometer of the bearing was less than the PLA or ABS it would reduce the grinding and also provide a better grip on the material why using equal or less spring pressure.