milehigh3dii

Had issues with 3.2, did a fresh download and instal of 3.2.1 on my early 2013 MBP retina with 10.13.3. Still garbled. Maybe a bit better, but it doesn't fix it. Almost unreadable.

Running 3.1.0 on a MBP with Sierra 10.12.6. Cura has some odd behavior. I wanted to try the Slicing Tolerance setting to try to get screw holes and nut recesses to print better. I enabled the function, and it will say that is slicing, but with the 'exclusive' setting it the bar goes all the way, but it won't show layers or let it be saved? It will finish with the 'middle' and 'inclusive' settings. First I thought it was the model, but I made a new one of some simple holes in Tinkercad and it still won't work. Is there a wall setting that has to be a particular way to get it to work in exclusive mode? Also, for the past few CURA versions, when I try to save an STL, it gives me an error on the first try with something about access or permissions, but it will save it the second time I try to save it. Was really excited to try the exclusive setting. The holes not matching design drives me nuts. THX

Is the 24V power new? What does that mean to performance? Is it to drive two hot ends and the bed better?

Is there anyway that print cores with higher temp limits could be made? Thermocouple versus thermistor? The physical parts in the heat zone are all metal, correct? That would be a great differentiator.

In the main video, as the print head does the first layer of what looks like support material, there is a tail where the material started and when the nozzle comes back around it clips it and you can see a wave set up in the first tracing. Yep, reset. I've seen that story too many times. Really impressed with the printer. Just as long as I can still use third party filament. The drop and rise nozzle is really interesting. While it all looks good I really am going to wait for the reports back. My biggest struggle is still bed adhesion. That is the next issue I want to see nailed down- so to speak.

The further apart, the more loss of printing area. The Bowden has the advantage of a smaller foot print and less mass- both important it seems to multi head set ups. How did the E3D guys do the Kraken with 4 heads?

I'm looking to buy a UM2 and I was just going over all the things I do to help me print with my PBV2 that I have now. I looked thru the online manual, but I didn't see anything about if you can change the speed and volume of filament like I can now in Repetier. I find it really helpful to be able to change the extrusion multiplier during prints. I do the extrusion calibrations, but sometimes it seems that being able to tweak the multiplier on the first layers with lots of flat areas small flat areas to get the material to lay right (even using Cura as my slicer). Plus with ABS prints with thin and high walls, I like to be able up the extrusion a bit so that it is less prone to delam. I'm making my own filament too, which isn't as stable in diameter as I'd like (I'm printing the parts for a filawinder right now.) Being able to change the speed on the fly has really helped when I set the speed to fast for the PB to put down fine details. It also helps to speed up time dependent prints when I need it by x:xx time. Can you mod these with the control wheel during printing?

Have wipe on a high temp silicone wiper like a conveyer belt that is geared/connected to one of the motive bars so that it is continuiosly wrapped around its end points. That should make most plastic, once hardened at room temp, to fall off. A small doctor on the underside would help. Aren't these almost mandatory with the multi head set ups?

One thing I hate is when there are feed problems,like when a Nozzle clogs. I notice that the idler wheel opposite the filament feeder turns as filament feeds. Make stripes in this that an optical reader could see, or put holes in thru it and use a light/detector to count and monitor the number of times the wheel turns. If the wheel gets out of step by some ratio with the filament gripper, either alert or stop the print. With the wifi, it would be nice if it texted you about it.

I have a PB+ V2 now and while I like it, it is really slow, like 20mm/s and doesn't like to go below .2mm layers. I'm thinking about swapping with a 0,8 nozzle and turning it into a PET focused machine since slow speeds seem standard with that material. The main pet peeve I have with the PB+ is that the bed, even with a piece of glass, is far from flat. I really only get a 6x6 area since the bed, crowns a bit and has a twist in it too. With ABS, my preferred material, even with 20mm brims and glue, the corners are no-gos. I'm trying to rationalize the UM2 my thoughts are: -Actually much finer resolution -Faster speeds -Seems inherently more accurate Will I actually get the full bed? How much of a brim are people using with ABS? I could do some upgrades on my PB+, but it would be a couple hundred bucks and a few day (for me) of tearing it down and bringing it back up. The metal bases seem to be cast and I see a lot of reports that they aren't flat (enough). Had a school project for my 9 year old son where we printed a model of a building. Took almost a week of around the clock printing to print it and in a lot of sections. I think I could have printed it in about 2 days from the speeds I'm seeing on youtube. Thanks

From Maker Shed, says in stock, $3000 +$24 for shipping no tax collected. From UM direct E1895 converts to $2586, but could someone from the US or UM comment about shipping and the taxes, duties or fees the had to pay. It doesn't have to be to the penny, but what would you expect? I already have a PB+, so I don't have to have printer right now- I'm willing to wait for $400- but if shipping and taxes cut into that....