bez

I've ordered a couple of 3mm diameter probes to replace the one that's stuck in the block, I will just solder it to the existing wires from the dead sensor ....... not that I plan to use more than 1, but as sods law tends to go if you don't have a spare you can gaurente you will need it lol

Thanks for the reply, I've ordered up some 300c melting point solder, I will also pick up a couple of spare sensors from the place 3Poro mentioned in his topic. I need to order up a couple of isolators from ultimaker, so i will give it a couple of days to see if they respond to my email. In the meanwhile I'm going to gather the parts/materials for the repair job. Why is it these things always happen when its the worst possible time for the machine to have down time? lol

I'm glad I found this topic. I just accidentally murdered my PT100 B, as it had seized into the block even after removing the fixing grub screw, I may have broken a connection as its still stuck in there now lol I just need to figure the best way of removing it in one piece ........ I suppose its heating the block up then worst case drilling it out :( Is it as straight forward as just soldering the new sensor onto the existing wire and reinserting it into the block?

Hi Guys, I have recently taken the hot end apart on my UM2 to check the PTFE isolator as I have been suffering some really bad under extrusion ....... upon inspection I discovered the isolator has deformed after about 280 hours of printing <240°C :( Long story short I wanted to get the nozzle off to clean it properly as even after a few atomic pulls it was coated with some gunk ....... but the PT100 B Sensor (I think that's the name for the smaller one that inserts into the nozzle block) was jammed solid into the brass block, i thought i was gentle enough in my approach to wiggle it free but I guess I broke it as when i tuned it on again i got the: "ERROR STOPPED - Temp Sensor ........ Contact support@ultimaker.com" ........ My first response was "you idiot ...... you need to print something this week and now you have gone and broken it" No problem I thought I will order another however NO STOCK :( Is there another option to replace the sensor? Or do I have to wait for stock to become available? Edit: Also any suggestions on how to remove the sensor from the block?

Cheers for the info guys. The specs seem pretty decent to be honest. So baring that in mind I will just continue as I have planned and monitor the temperatures, I cant see them getting much over 70c, but I suppose it all depends on the length of print. I have a couple of 30 hour prints I need to knock out soon so it will be an ideal test for temperatures.

Great minds think alike What are the temps like inside the enclosure if you don't mind me asking, also do you feel you need to run a fan/extractor to keep the enclosure cooler?

Well deserved awards too Congratulations to all the Ultimaker staff for creating such an impressive combination.

I suppose what you get out of a printer is down to the limits of the imagination of the user. For me personally 3D printing is an absolute asset to my RC hobby. I'm yet to play with the full range of different materials on the market. But on the pro side ive found out you can get a pla printed body over 130mph, For those of you who haven't seen my thread, this is my current speed project:

Thanks for the heads up. I don't suppose anyone has any details on the temps of the motors, ie what the normal running temps should be and what temperatures are considered to be acceptable etc.

Thanks for the feedback, Yeah I did thing that might be an issue, but Its not difficult to revise the design. I will post up a picture once I have had a tweek edit: I have had a poke with the design taking into consideration what you mentioned, what do you think of this?

I'm not sure if I'm the only one but I've noticed a couple things with my UM2 which I'm really keen to address to help improve my print quality and consistency. Unfortunately my UM2 can only live near a draft and now its getting cold again here its playing havoc with my print quality and settings, one brisk draft of the dogs going in and out is enough to get some really ugly lines in the layers. I can only come to this conclusion as when we had some nice warm weather 27c+ the print quality and consistency was far better than it is currently. I have also noticed sometimes the filament ends up getting rotated up to 180 degrees in the bowden tube. Which really doesn't help me when I'm printing tricky materials like ninjaflex. In a nut shell I want to reduce the possibility of drafts effecting the prints and find a more efficient way of mounting the spool so it has a more direct or "natural" path to the feeder. To also complicate things further its important that I can easily access the feeder to mount fresh spools and I don't want to be drilling holes in my lovely UM2. Not only that I didn't really want to end up making what is essentially a easy on the eye machine into some Frankenstein creation mainly because it lives in my living room (I have a awesome wife, who does well to put up with me lol). This is my design that I have come up with to address my problems: Temperature fluctuations are being minimized by a simple 6mm thick lexan "window" with printable latches that lock it into place. This means its easily removable and if It proves to work well I can put more effort into making a hinged option. There is also a 6mm polycarb "greenhouse" on the top to help keep the temperture up and the drafts out while printing. With a opening at the rear large enough for the lines not to snag and hopefully not too large to let too much warmth out (This could always be extended behind the printer to make a full enclosure). As for the filament path it seems logical to me to allow the filament to follow its natural arc straight into the feeder, which I am hoping will reduce and twisting and potential bowden tube friction issues as possible. The box its self simply sits under the weight of the printer and is held in place by a raised center section to stop the printer falling of the box. Fingers crossed once I build the parts up that they work as well in practice as I'm hoping they will in theory. I will keep this topic up to date as I progress with the build

Yeah the comments are one of the best things about social media, take youtube for example its like every troll comes out from under their bridge. I'm glad you noticed the bulkyness too, I didn't want to be down on the principle but it wasn't a very femine design of hand if you follow me. The angles were quite a good idea as i personally find prosthetics more attractive if they are not trying to imitate the natural look of the body.

Clever stuff, the argument in the comments under the article made me chuckle a bit.

You guys have my votes too, but in all fairness Ultimaker deserve them! Fantastic versatile system and software which has helped me evolve my personal projects in ways I didn't think were possible. Keep up the good work guys

lol yeah that's me. More for line of sight that safety haha Na unfortunately my mate has been rather busy took long enough to get him to upload the raw clip, you gotta love the welsh lol

The video is here, just a quick warning of the swearing at the end of the video lol

lol, the phrase "don't make me 3d print a gun and bust a cap in yo ass" comes to mind lolololol Yeah I think 3d printing has a good home in RC especially in scale stuff. Makes me wonder if its possible to print a engine bay ....... but that's just time i don't have to sink into the full on session in solidworks lol

Cheers I'm based not too far from Ascot. I'm still waiting for my mate to pull his thumb out and upload a video, that will teach me not to set up my own camera lol

Have you thought about what size and layout? IMO a 250 mini quad would make all the components that little bit more affordable and a H frame will be a bit more stable over a traditional X layout, not to mention its easier to fit all the gear on a H frame here is an example of size (pic is one of the better designs of H frame 250 quad) link to the website http://www.minihquad.com/frames/blackout-mini-h-quad-arf-bundle

Its not really the heat that kills the tyres, its tiny stones on the track. All it takes is a tiny cut and the centrifugal force just instantly skins the tyre and the chunks of foam are ejected from the wheel with enough force to rip through 1.8mm of pla :lol: This is one of my wheels after a foam exploded:

That was my spare cowl too, the other one had an argument with a pothole. Which means I now have a solid 80+ hours ahead of me re printing the body lol I did try the XT filament but it was warping quite a lot. I really need to make an enclosure for my UM2 as I'm finding the ambient temperature changes are throwing the quality out of the window.

Thanks for the comments guys. Yeah real speed not scale, Its like threading a needle and thread trying to get through the speed traps at that speed lol. One of the other guys that was at the event got a good video i'm just waiting for him to upload it ... wont be long i hope I the meanwhile this is what exploding foams do to pla/pha lol

I have been busy printing away with my UM2 and I think its about time I share with you all what I have been up to My main hobby is RC speed racing, I've just finished competing in the UK round of ROSSA (remote controlled scale speed association) with my car which is dripping in 3d printed goodness. The chassis is my own design, and all the plastic parts have been printed using my UM2. There are some piccys: For those who are interested in RC the current running spec is as follows: ESC: MGM Compro 400A 63V Motor: Lehner 2240 6 wind Cells: 2 x 4 cell turnigy nanotech (in series) Radio gear: spectrum Chassis: custom design by myself Body and plastic parts: custom designed and printed on a UM2 (using dutch orange pla/pha from colorfabb) Current high speed: 133Mph (at 80% throttle - few technical gremlins) I'd like to thank the UM Forum veterans for a lot of help and advice along the way with my printing hiccups along the way. I will keep this thread up to date as I make progress with the project

Have a read through this, loads of really helpful hint and tips http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide#underextrusion%20:)

Sometimes a tiny bit of debris can stop small fans from spinning up, I get his quite often with my RC models. It might be worth checking to see if there is a chunk of fluff restricting it slightly.