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ilsaarin

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Posts posted by ilsaarin

  1. I had to install Cura again to new hard drive. Now, in this version (4.3.0), when printer starts to print and extrudes first some material, the platform comes up and that waste material gets stuck to the nozzle and it drags the waste to print area. Previously, the platform raised up after nozzle was moved to print area. Which setting changes this? 

  2. Hello

    I just bought UM2 to the office after testing two other brands before. I have on UM2 also at home. Now we have exactly same problem at the office. The filament is squeezed to flat and it doesn't move anymore. Many prints have failed because of this. So, the cure was to increase minimal printing amount before extracting happens? Have I understood right?

    This is how the filament looks. We have tested UM blue and FormFutura EcoPla White.

    https://app.younited.com/?shareObject=f3140638-c194-3e21-1e1e-0df11231e3d9

    Ilkka

     

  3. If your DWG is just 2D lines, you can't make it to STL. 3D DWG also exists, but it might be that you can't convert it to STL either. STL is 3D format, which is made of "surface triangles". You need 3D CAD to make STL files. You can't make them with AutoCad 2D. Surface modeling software are also called CAD software. AutoCad is just one CAD software and in this case.

     

  4. What's your heated bed configuration? Temperature, anything added to the glass surface?

    I'm printing XT directly on my PEI build plate, just need to heat it to ~60°C. Never printed on glass before, but I think you're supposed to use blue tape on the glass plate + heat it.

     

    Heated glass plate with glue stick in it. No problems with sticking. Just the print looked horrible. I noticed that when layer is started, the plastic boils when it comes out. It bubbles! Temperature was 245 deg. glass plate was set to 70deg.

    I made Iphone case yesterday. It came out much better than robotbut I had to switch fans back on. It also had delamination problems.

     

  5. I usually print with 255°C (a bit lower should still be fine, but print too cold and you get brittle results).

    As little fan as possible (I have a much weaker cooling fan than the UM standard, and I use 40% max).

    And I print with 2 shells and 100% infill to get super-strong prints.

    Hollow (20% infill or something) XT parts actually are much more brittle than a good PLA. I think, the trick is that the shells must not be allowed to flex. With 100% infill, the shells are tightly held into place. If you have only a 0.8mm wall, you can flex it which delaminates the layers.

    Maybe I'm doing something wrong with my hollow prints, but I've just settled with 100% infill ;)

     

    I tried with fans off and 255 deg. Total disaster. Just a pile of holes and molten plastic.

     

  6. Companies, like Ultimaker, has outsourced their accounting. They do the accounting work propably once a month. It is bit different if company has financial department of their own. At least in Finland, accounting companies also charges per invoice. That cost is easily 2,5 euros each, which is something like 3,5 dollars. I asked for refund also at the spring because I noticed three days after placing an order that I can get UM2 from London in 5 days instead of 10 weeks. I got the refund after a month or so. But if customer f..k's up the order, it is not company's fault. Refunding causes also extra costs and Ultimaker didn't charge them from me. So, I think that I got good service. Not very fast, but good.

    Ilkka

     

  7. Are you sure on those numbers? I actually thought XT had a higher glass transition temperature.

    I know from Colorfabb it is odor free and it is food-safe.

    It is also suppose to be 50 times stronger then PLA.

    It is also good with bridging. I was shown this impressive 12 cm bridge on an UM2.

     

    Any information about settings? I am just currently printing ultirobot with XT and it seems there is some slight issues with overhangs.

    EDIT:

    Just finished ultirobot. Severe delamination in first layers. What to do? Raise the temperature?

     

  8. Little bit off-topic, but where do you buy ProtoParadigm PLA? Straight from USA or do you know any european supplier? I am still searching for the "best" PLA. Formfutura is currently the best what I have. Or not neccessarily the best but something I like.

    Ilkka

     

  9. have you checked the thickness of your filament? Which brand you are using) As mentioned somewhere in this forum, you can feed 3,0 mm filament but 3,0001mm filament will get stuck. Feeder can and will squeeze the filament, so that can cause jamming also.

    I had under extrusion problems and the reason was switching between ABS and PLA. I got a lot of stuff from the nozzle. Some of that looked like copper.

     

  10. I have used Colorfabb PLA/PHA. It is pretty good but I prefer Formfutura EasyPla, or whatever it is called today. This doesn't mean that colorfabb is bad. It might be that I have found better settings for Formfutura than I have for colorfabb. I really would like to test XT, but It doesn't make any sense to pay about 40 euros per reel plus 20 euros shipping when ordering just one reel. Anyone willing to send me few meters for testing purposes ? :-P

     

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