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pm_dude

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pm_dude last won the day on June 5 2015

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About pm_dude

  • Birthday 03/09/1985

Personal Information

  • Field of Work
    (Product) design
    Fashion
    Engineering
    R&D / Exploration
  • Country
    CA
  • 3D printer
    Ultimaker 2
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  1. pm_dude

    Infos Ultimaker 3

    Cool merci. Car au prix du PVA de UM c'est pas donné et il y en a d'autre plus de deux fois moins cher.
  2. pm_dude

    Infos Ultimaker 3

    Salut! On dit pouvoir imprimer en Nylon avec le PVA mais tout les PVA que je vois stipule de ne pas aller au dela de 225C. Sachant que la plupart des Nylon impriment à 230C et plus, ça ne risque pas de bruler le PVA? Le PVA d'Ultimaker imprime à quel température?
  3. pm_dude

    Knurled wheel slippage problem

    The issue described here is not that the knurled mantle move around the shaft but simply slide out of it. The screw needs to be just a little loose to allow a slide in and out of the shaft since it require no rotation what so ever.
  4. Unless it was changed in the last few months the IPM teflon coupler is NOT working properly with PLA. PLA stick to it and cause clogging. It is clearly stated on the 3DSolex website. I cannot tell if its the IPM or another one but with the shape it has I would say its an IPM. (mine was black). What teflon piece do you use?
  5. pm_dude

    Knurled wheel slippage problem

    That happened to me once. Even though the screw seemed tighten up it wasnt. It is possible that the wheel screw is not properly inserted in the threads giving you the feeling of being tightened. I'm not saying it's be the case here but if the screw is tight but the knurled wheel is still loose then the screw is just not touching the shaft with enough pressure.
  6. pm_dude

    ridges/lines on outside of print

    Hi, Welcome to the forum. That is a lot of movement between the lines. Seems limited to a single axis so either its the bed that have some play or one of the axis of the print head that is moving around causing random drifting. Check this guide. Its full of great information http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide 1. Check the print bed to see if it is loose from left to right or front to back. - go in the advanced menu on the UM2 and select raise buildplate. - while the print bed is raising put your hand on the bed (dont put pressure) to see if you feel some movement. You'll feel the vibrations from the motor but you should not feel movement. - once raised try moving the bed sideways and front/back. 2. Check the print head axis - Make sure the belts of the axis stepper motor have enough tension (http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide#leaning) - check that each axis rods have no play (grab each rod individually and look to see if its can slide out of place. If its the case you will need to loose the screws on the rod, center the rod, align the belts and tighten the screws again. - check the center rods to see that the are all properly snapped in the black locks holding the belts. Sometimes they can be only partially snapped and the will be slightly angled. - make sure the axis are straight. Place the print head in the far corner and look to see if each axis reach the same location from one end to the other (http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide#misaligned-axes) One last point. There is only limited use of Raft with the Ultimaker printers. Its rarely used by anyone since they have the heated bed. I hope this will help PM
  7. pm_dude

    Change Print Origin and Y-Axis Mirror

    Awesome you figured it out. Since its a kit, is it possible that the x-axis motor could be have been installed the other way around in order to mirror?
  8. pm_dude

    Change Print Origin and Y-Axis Mirror

    Wait your saying that you bought a 3D printer that cannot print out of the box? Doesn't it come with a software compatible with the said printer?
  9. pm_dude

    Change Print Origin and Y-Axis Mirror

    Have you contacted Convenient 3D? If they say you can use Cura they should know how to configure it.
  10. pm_dude

    Change Print Origin and Y-Axis Mirror

    Have you looked at the settings on your printer? You might have a way to mirror the Y axis.
  11. pm_dude

    Adaptive Cura Idea

    @bagel-orb What do you mean by "Hysteresis effect of a Bowden tube". Are you referring to the delay between the feeder push and the extrusion time? If that's the case then that issue would occur everywhere due to acceleration in general. I always had the impression that steep overhang printed better at slower speed. More so with bridging. Yes sagging and falling is made worst because it give more time to fall but it also reduce occurrence of breaking the filament. Maybe my perception is biased because printing slower allow you to print colder (in general) which definitely help with overhang and bridging and that would not be doable with what I'm proposing.
  12. pm_dude

    Adaptive Cura Idea

    Hey @nallath, Food for thought here... Do you think a speed reduction on shell thickness based on overhang would be easier to implement as a general behavior? ex: Speed % on high overhang: 50% minimum overhang slope before speed reduction: 30° maximum overhang slope: 60° ease in/out distance: 10mm So speed could reduce progressively when getting near an overhang > 30° and reach full reduction at 60° and up.
  13. Hi Andreas, I use 3DLac as well and I notice that the spray works great but if you get drops of 3DLac they will stick a lot more so try paying attention to those especially with XT because it can chip your glass surface. ice spray: is it not just compressed air that causes ice when over pushing it? I wonder if you can try to use the ice spray on the underside of the glass to see if it still works. This way the ice spray would not get in contact with the piece. I usually just rinse the underside of the glass with cold water in the sink and it helps to lower the temp even more.
  14. pm_dude

    Colorfabb flexible. When? Any new new?

    I got only limited time to do a test but I did print a tree frog and the overhang on the belly have come out perfect with 100% fans. That being said I think 100% is too strong cause I had to raise temp to 235°C and can clearly see a difference in color from 230 to 235 when I did that. I guess fans at 50% and printing at 225°C would give a similar result. I notice a good difference in retraction between 230 and 235 so I suspect that the retraction will be much easier to deal with around 225. Still no burn marks Hope to get another run around 220-225.
  15. pm_dude

    Colorfabb flexible. When? Any new new?

    Good question. I'll do some testing tonight. Any preferred settings you want to test ?
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