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pm_dude last won the day on June 5 2015

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  1. Cool merci. Car au prix du PVA de UM c'est pas donné et il y en a d'autre plus de deux fois moins cher.
  2. Salut! On dit pouvoir imprimer en Nylon avec le PVA mais tout les PVA que je vois stipule de ne pas aller au dela de 225C. Sachant que la plupart des Nylon impriment à 230C et plus, ça ne risque pas de bruler le PVA? Le PVA d'Ultimaker imprime à quel température?
  3. Autodesk Tinker CAD is a great starting point and might generate better text than Sketchup. http://blog.tinkercad.com/2014/06/10/tinkertip-text-shape-generator/ Design Spark Mecanical is great.
  4. 5) les nouveaux ont réponse à tout leur questionnement déjà avec tous les guides sur l'impression 3D. 6) certains on juste moins le temps qu'avant ==> @pm_dude :( mais reste dans l'ombre et observe
  5. Hi Alpha, If you are looking to create bookmarks with text you could do that using a simple image. I dont know if the newer versions of Cura still support that. If you are looking to add text to an existing 3D object (stl) you'll need to import that model is 3D softwares and add the text were you want it, re export the model in STL and open it in Cura. I think you can do that with TinkerCAD. With this method you can also create bookmarks as a 3D object.
  6. If the endstop is not enough, some times the metal fan-duck is not straight. You can try to bend upward the left side of the fanduck in order to free about 1mm.
  7. Bon ça fait un bail! Salut à tous. J'était dans l'ombre depuis un bout de temps... Désolé pour les silences mais maintenant ça devrait être bon . Vive les emails notifications!!!
  8. True. Another way to solve this, at least on my printers, was to start using the Olsson block and good isolation of the nozzle (against fan air flow) its all smooth now.
  9. After much wait, I'm about to finally jump in with a new UM2 mostly for that. The question is: Where do I get the list of things I need to get started in this 44 pages thread?
  10. Might be a minor thing but there is more swing on the front of the build plate so having the head use the front of the printer seems like a better idea than the back. Again that is a minor thing.
  11. How about having some ramp upward or at an angle sideways on the ducking? I have no clue if that would actually work. We could have a custom cut of glass that doesn't go all the way in front. You leave the front clip open and make side clips.
  12. Wow great work! Cant wait to get a 3rd UM and put it together... Z offset per nozzle could be done in a plugin. Just watch for T1 changes and insert G92 Z0.01 if you want a 0.01 offset. Then on the next T0 insert a G92 Z0.0 and your back to default height. Or at least it should be something similar to this. If you use different nozzle size you'll need to change the slicer if that is not yet supported.
  13. Just add a wipe tower for each nozzle. When you attach that print head you then print the layer of a cylinder and retract. That will also help stabilizing the material temp in there before going to the real piece.
  14. z hop is triggered at every retraction so it should trigger it if it's properly setup. If you cap the nozzle you will risk cooking the filament. Woodfill, flexible filaments and other metal pla will likely clog the nozzle.
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