pm_dude

Cool merci. Car au prix du PVA de UM c'est pas donné et il y en a d'autre plus de deux fois moins cher.

Salut! On dit pouvoir imprimer en Nylon avec le PVA mais tout les PVA que je vois stipule de ne pas aller au dela de 225C. Sachant que la plupart des Nylon impriment à 230C et plus, ça ne risque pas de bruler le PVA? Le PVA d'Ultimaker imprime à quel température?

The issue described here is not that the knurled mantle move around the shaft but simply slide out of it. The screw needs to be just a little loose to allow a slide in and out of the shaft since it require no rotation what so ever.

Unless it was changed in the last few months the IPM teflon coupler is NOT working properly with PLA. PLA stick to it and cause clogging. It is clearly stated on the 3DSolex website. I cannot tell if its the IPM or another one but with the shape it has I would say its an IPM. (mine was black). What teflon piece do you use?

That happened to me once. Even though the screw seemed tighten up it wasnt. It is possible that the wheel screw is not properly inserted in the threads giving you the feeling of being tightened. I'm not saying it's be the case here but if the screw is tight but the knurled wheel is still loose then the screw is just not touching the shaft with enough pressure.

Hi, Welcome to the forum. That is a lot of movement between the lines. Seems limited to a single axis so either its the bed that have some play or one of the axis of the print head that is moving around causing random drifting. Check this guide. Its full of great information http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide 1. Check the print bed to see if it is loose from left to right or front to back. - go in the advanced menu on the UM2 and select raise buildplate. - while the print bed is raising put your hand on the bed (dont put pressure) to see if you feel some movement. You'll feel the vibrations from the motor but you should not feel movement. - once raised try moving the bed sideways and front/back. 2. Check the print head axis - Make sure the belts of the axis stepper motor have enough tension (http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide#leaning) - check that each axis rods have no play (grab each rod individually and look to see if its can slide out of place. If its the case you will need to loose the screws on the rod, center the rod, align the belts and tighten the screws again. - check the center rods to see that the are all properly snapped in the black locks holding the belts. Sometimes they can be only partially snapped and the will be slightly angled. - make sure the axis are straight. Place the print head in the far corner and look to see if each axis reach the same location from one end to the other (http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide#misaligned-axes) One last point. There is only limited use of Raft with the Ultimaker printers. Its rarely used by anyone since they have the heated bed. I hope this will help PM

Awesome you figured it out. Since its a kit, is it possible that the x-axis motor could be have been installed the other way around in order to mirror?

Wait your saying that you bought a 3D printer that cannot print out of the box? Doesn't it come with a software compatible with the said printer?

Have you contacted Convenient 3D? If they say you can use Cura they should know how to configure it.

Have you looked at the settings on your printer? You might have a way to mirror the Y axis.

@bagel-orb What do you mean by "Hysteresis effect of a Bowden tube". Are you referring to the delay between the feeder push and the extrusion time? If that's the case then that issue would occur everywhere due to acceleration in general. I always had the impression that steep overhang printed better at slower speed. More so with bridging. Yes sagging and falling is made worst because it give more time to fall but it also reduce occurrence of breaking the filament. Maybe my perception is biased because printing slower allow you to print colder (in general) which definitely help with overhang and bridging and that would not be doable with what I'm proposing.

Hey @nallath, Food for thought here... Do you think a speed reduction on shell thickness based on overhang would be easier to implement as a general behavior? ex: Speed % on high overhang: 50% minimum overhang slope before speed reduction: 30° maximum overhang slope: 60° ease in/out distance: 10mm So speed could reduce progressively when getting near an overhang > 30° and reach full reduction at 60° and up.

Hi Andreas, I use 3DLac as well and I notice that the spray works great but if you get drops of 3DLac they will stick a lot more so try paying attention to those especially with XT because it can chip your glass surface. ice spray: is it not just compressed air that causes ice when over pushing it? I wonder if you can try to use the ice spray on the underside of the glass to see if it still works. This way the ice spray would not get in contact with the piece. I usually just rinse the underside of the glass with cold water in the sink and it helps to lower the temp even more.

I got only limited time to do a test but I did print a tree frog and the overhang on the belly have come out perfect with 100% fans. That being said I think 100% is too strong cause I had to raise temp to 235°C and can clearly see a difference in color from 230 to 235 when I did that. I guess fans at 50% and printing at 225°C would give a similar result. I notice a good difference in retraction between 230 and 235 so I suspect that the retraction will be much easier to deal with around 225. Still no burn marks Hope to get another run around 220-225.

Good question. I'll do some testing tonight. Any preferred settings you want to test ?

I was lucky enough to try a spool of red last night. **Referring to colored XT bellow I like it better than XT. No burn marks so far. Retraction... I guess I still need to figure it out a bit... The print finish is great, between XT and PLA-PHA, Similar flexibility compared to XT and better layer adhesion. I had to print at lower fan speed otherwise it was making some hair and had some spacing between lines. Was printing around 230-235°C, 0.15mm LH, 50mm/s. nGen Red vs Green PLA-PHA

Can you see any difference in the layer view in Cura? You might be getting in a thinner or thicker section which cause that section to fill with a different number of shells compared to everywhere else. That would depend on your print settings but just a guess.

Hi John, You can try setting the retraction length (not the speed) on the printer itself to 0.0mm to see if it makes any difference. If it resolve the issue then it may be related to the feeder motor. The retraction is part of the feeder motor so if extrusion occur normally on a print not requiring retraction then it might not be related. Do you know if your print uses z-hop? You can look in the gcode to see if it's the case. Between every G10 G11 code you will see a G0 with Z information. If that's the case then maybe z stepper motor is not connected properly anymore or got burned somehow and doesn't like to be used very often. Please post a picture or video of the issue.

Hello Makers, I thought I would share a bit of a trick I've been using for a while now about not limiting yourself to the default gantry height. For those not aware of what the gantry height is, it's the clearance you have between the bed and the lower axis metal rod driving the print head movement. This is what limit you when doing "Print One At A Time" prints. Something I have come to like about Cura is to be able to change settings even for a very well defined printer like the UM2. Cura let you change the machine settings to your liking. This is useful when you start customizing your printer with different fan duck or change other things. It's a double edge sword so better be careful otherwise you can seriously damage your printer. I haven't seen those settings in the new Cura. Today I want to show you how you can get away with no gantry limit in situation that suit your needs. 2 things to keep in mind. 1. If you change your gantry height for one project you better keep in mind to change in back to avoid potential collision on your next prints. 2. Space is limited so plan your object positioning. Changing your gantry height In the old Cura. Go in the Machine Menu -> Machine Settings and change the Printer Gantry height to any higher value. To make sure I don't forget the original setting I usually just add a 0 (ex. 48.0 -> 480.0). The progressive approach Sometimes you have a bunch of objects to print and only one of them are over the gantry. One thing you can do here is "try" to position your objects so the tallest objects are printed last. This will avoid any potential collisions and preserve most of the build space available. That can be tricky because Cura decide what pieces to print when and so you need to play around with placement a bit to get it in the order you want. It would be great if Cura could allow you to select the order in which pieces get printed or sort by height automatically. The reckless approach Sometimes you just want to print the same tall thing twice in a row and don't want to be around to wait for bed cool down and start over. If you have enough space you may be able to get away with it. To know if you can do so you need to think in axis. 1. The first thing to think about is to place your first object in the most corner point possible. This way you reduce less build space for other pieces. 2. The deadzone is defined by the axis rods that move the print head. If the respective axis rod get in that zone after the piece is printed it will smash the already printed piece. So you have a X axis dead-zone and a Y axis dead-zone. It's important to understand and figure out the dead-zone and not place anything in there once the object is printed. This mean objects under the normal gantry height could be printed BEFORE with no issue. 3. Then you can keep adding objects as long as the dead-zone is not an issue. Keep in mind that Cura will also force you to respect the normal print head clearance visible in light gray when selecting objects. 4. Know the print head movements. When the piece is done the build will lower a little, the print head will move above its next object to print and then raise the bed again. Check the layer view to see if the sequence of printed piece is good. The print head could smash a taller than the last printed piece when moving to the next one to print. 5. Beware of pausing and aborting your print. This is not a new issue but is more likely to affect you now with higher pieces (at least on older firmware). When pausing the bed doesn't lower enough to clear every printed object and the printer move to the front left corner right away. This mean it could hit printed pieces. Same with aborting. The print head reach X zero while lowering the bed. Happy printing everyone. PM

Autodesk Tinker CAD is a great starting point and might generate better text than Sketchup. http://blog.tinkercad.com/2014/06/10/tinkertip-text-shape-generator/ Design Spark Mecanical is great.

Hi jamo, Are you printing from USB or from the sd card. I cannot speak for the USB prints but It is unlikely to be related to the file size when printing from the sdcard because it doesnt load more than a small number of instructions at the time. I recently did a 80 hours print and the file size must have been really big since the amount of details were super high. If you cut the power and turn it back on you will get the same effect on your print. Is it possible that a power cut or a power fluctuation occur at a certain time (during the night possibly). I used to work at a place that every night the ventilation system would stop around 8pm and when it would start back you could see some power fluctuations (just an example). It could be that the power supply is starting to malfunction after a long time printing. I know @gr5 mentionned that he had a few cases like this.

5) les nouveaux ont réponse à tout leur questionnement déjà avec tous les guides sur l'impression 3D. 6) certains on juste moins le temps qu'avant ==> @pm_dude :( mais reste dans l'ombre et observe

Hi Alpha, If you are looking to create bookmarks with text you could do that using a simple image. I dont know if the newer versions of Cura still support that. If you are looking to add text to an existing 3D object (stl) you'll need to import that model is 3D softwares and add the text were you want it, re export the model in STL and open it in Cura. I think you can do that with TinkerCAD. With this method you can also create bookmarks as a 3D object.

I know they did do a batch of flexible filament but that was almost a year ago and they did not continue. Unfortunately it was the best looking flexible print I had seen :( in term of print finish and feeling.

Your best option would be to do it in Cura and debug the python code to see the exact command that is sent.