pm_dude

Very impressive. XT could do as well I believe

Also you can try with 14.12.1 to see if it help.

Have you tried with 2 objects? If it work then move to 5, 10, 15, ... Until it start failing again

Pinshape released its troubleshooting guie. Seems very familiar https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/ vs http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide

Salut sas-fgs, Es-tu encore sur la garanti d'un an? Puisque le bowden est enlevé ça démontre que le feeder force sans raison (à moins que tu crée de la résistance dans le feeder toi même :( ). Je contacterais le support avec cette vidéo. Peut-être qu'ils peuvent envoyer un nouveau feeder motor.

It may stop if your computer go to sleep mode or if you close the app.

Wow they look great . Nicely done

Hi David, Welcome to the forum. I'm not a developer on the new Cura but I'm interested in features in general. Aside from point 5 which I can identify, I may be just not understanding what you are asking for but a shopping list of features with bullet points and no details is of no use except for the person who wrote it. Can you give some more details about your requests? Maybe some features already exist . PM

Hi devilflash, I've had to do the same for the Mark3 Iron Man suit for a friend and we did use the shell of 3ds Max. Over time we managed to simplify the process a bit but overall here is what we did: For every part we wanted we took the surface only (our model was nice outside but not valid for a wearable suit inside): - We made our objects Editable Poly - Use the selection tool with Ignore Backfacing on and By Angle (depending on the case but usually something around 20 worked well) to easily select the faces of the surface. - Detach every surface we wanted to be considered as separate objects. - If the object was very high in polygon we sent it in MeshLab to reduce the number of faces using Quadric Edge Collapse Decimation. Export as obj and bring it back in 3dsMax. - In some cases we created a lid around the surface of about 3mm. - Use the shell modifier. We used about 1.5mm (inward only) and used the Straighten Corners option. You will probably notice spikes here and there. These are the places you need to go fix. Hope this helps PM

https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/17696-vertical-walls-are-wobbly

Interesting video. I'm definitely going to look at my printers later tonight to check the tension. Thanks for sharing and for the possible replacement source. Did you look at replacing them with the original one from fbrc8? http://fbrc8.com/collections/ultimaker-original-spare-parts-1/products/belts-pack-1 Would probably have been less expensive.

And who are you? lol

Hello, Did you invert the descriptions of the cylinders? On the right you have no infill and on the left you do. The z banding seems very constant. It is probably some issue with one of the bearings or something is affecting the z step causing it to not be smooth. If its not the z step then you would probably have some issue with temperature changing. You say you are using the UM+. Are you enabling the heated bed for these prints?

turn your model 90 degrees so the supports are on the other axis. It should help

Ça va pas donner grand chose si c'est encore bloqué. Ça doit être assez abrasif comme truc donc j'utiliserais avec modération.

try at 30mm/s and at 195-205C.

pinshape.com

I've seen it a few times but don't know what it come from. Is it happening with every models? Have you tried with a more recent version of Cura (the new Cura)?

Whats the difference? I mean you could use a normal blade and sand it to get the exact straight cut.

If the endstop is not enough, some times the metal fan-duck is not straight. You can try to bend upward the left side of the fanduck in order to free about 1mm.

C'est peu probable que ça prenne feu mais le heater est probablement capout. Dans les tests de filament il est assez fréquent d'y voir des tests de 72 heures à chauffer dans la buse. Pour la fumé ça peut être la soudure du connecteur entre le heater et le fil qui a fondu. J'ai eu un cas comme ça et la connexion était brûlée. Si c'est le cas tu devras changer le heater. Sinon c'est le plastique qui a calciné dans la buse comme on peut souvent voir des buse très sale ce n'est pas impossible. Si tu arrives encore a chauffer ton block je te recommande de le mettre a 150-180 et de nettoyer le plus possible avec un chiffon et une brosse en brass.

Nice

Awesome! Glad you found it

What version fo Cura are you using? In the advanced tap can you make sure "Initial layer light width (%)" is set to 100. Make sure you have no plugin that may affect the gcode in the plugin tab. Also check that the Initial layer height make sense and is now mistakenly saying 1.5mm instead of 0.15mm for example.

The part is for some bakery equipment so it will be in contact with food.