pm_dude

You can also slice the object super easily in netfabb or meshmixer. Both are free

La question en suite c'est pourquoi tu veux arrêter l'impression pour la nuit? La peur part après un certain temps quand la confience s'installe.

Salut mouss, La réponse rapide c'est: non ce n'est pas possible présentement. C'est une option interessant et d'autres méthodes pourrait être mis en place pour faire l'équivalant comme faire un "start at layer X". Le problème est comme tu l'as dit... Que faire si la pièce décole. Le problème c'est que dans un cas ou tu utilise le plateau chauffant tu vas toujours finor avec la pièce qui décolle si tu ferme le plateau ou l'imprimante. La seul solution pour ça c'est de mettre du tape au lieu du plateau chauffant. Hors l'idée est bonne et est sortie plusieurs fois mais le peoblème reste le même. Ça ne serait pas utilisable pour tous les cas. Ensuite il faut trouver le temps de le faire. C'est dans ma liste et c'est dans celle de plusieurs autre aussi j'en suis certain.

I did about 300-400 hours with the same fan from digikey and the prints are still great. Must be something else.

I don't know for Cura but you can normally do that in most image editor.

Your png. Reverse the colors of the png. White background, black text

Ok then just reverse your color.

Is it me or you cannot choose the Font in the annotations anymore with DSM 2.0... :(

How did you do the text in the first place?

Welcome from Montreal. While distance might be an issue you wont have that issue with this community. Everyone here is so friendly and always willing to help so ask away and follow your topics so you can get fast reply notifications

fan replacement link: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/5442-feature-request-allow-to-turn-off-fan-behind-extruder/

They might not have noticed since its just happening since newer versions of Cura. You might have the impression that the sound get worse the further it printed but it might just be that the longer the travel is, the louder the sound is too.

Nice. Need a hand ?

I often add a cylinder that cover the time needed to not trigger the cool head lift. And now with the Olson block and the 0.25mm nozzle the tinny details are even better.

I wonder what dye Shapeways use with the Strong & Flexible polished. The dye go off over time (use). Maybe you need to add some agent to seal it.

Nozzles are coming from E3D. http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/Extra-Nozzles The steel versions are not recommended for PLA because if I understand it correct PLA stick too much to steel and doesn't flow properly. This is why no full metal print head is good at printing PLA *so far*. Steel nozzle is more resistant to the abrasive materials like the XT-CF20.

Welcome to the forum by the way !

yes I started hearing this sound as well since version cura 14.12.1. It seems to be because the new layer starts at a different place than where the previous one ended. Unlike previous versions of cura the next layer doesn't always start where it ended and so the G0 code including the change in Z also include a bit of travel in X and Y. This causes the Z to be elapsed over a longer timespan and give this sound. You can ear a very similar sound when printing in spiralize. At least thats what I think it is.

Yeah I have a Toshiba Flash Air with integrated wifi and it doesn't work... It does in my camera even if it as no support for wifi in the first place. I guess its because of the way the card is accessed by the firmware. EDIT: but the card works. Not the wifi

I use the default length of the V6.

True but if you want to cover your heater block and isolate if from the air flow you need something that wont melt. Aluminum cover is just one way along many others.

I'm making a new one. I'm trying to have separated fan ducks so I can isolate the nozzle with an aluminium cover independently. Something closer to what the Ditto Pro has.

Jerome, Il y a une grande différence entre pouvoir se déplacer a 300mm/s et imprimer a 300mm/s. Les déplacements sans impression (Travel Speed) sur mes UM2 sont à 200-250mm/s mais l'impression elle est autour de 50mm/s pour avoir une qualité acceptable. Le problème c'est que plus vite tu imprime et plus ton filament de plastique chaud sera propice à caser. Donc oublier les bon bridge et les beau overhang a une vitesse de fou. J'ai déjà imprimé a 80mm/s mais je n'avais pas de surface a remplir. Je préfère imprimer des couches plus épaisse que d'aller plus vite. 0.15mm au lieu de 0.1mm par exemple. Le fini change aussi avec la vitesse. Le Colorfabb va devenir moins lustré et moi constant avec une plus grande vitesse. Tu peux toujours changer pour une buse plus grande et aller chercher de l'épaisseur et de la vitesse.

The sd card reader support SDHC so you can use any SDHC cards you want. I have a 16Gb card and it run fine.

Sup! Just got a second UM2 and I'm waiting for a replacement heater and sensor (stuck in OEM nozzle) to be ready to install that second custom block. That UM2 now feel inferior to my first one :eek: . Did anyone notice any change with printing overhangs? I feel the borders are warping upward a lot with any slope more than 45 degrees.