andrew-redman

Ok thanks. Yes sometimes the warping does cause the corners to lift as well - we haven't tried anything other than the stock gluestick on the glass. Plus we've been running it at the standard 70-75deg. I'll try lowering the bed temp and see if that helps first. This particular model has failed 10 times now, so I was thinking I'd just stick a raft on that was deep enough to get past the point that it starts going nice and straight, which seems to be over about 5mm deep. It's a hack, but it would get it done!

Is there an answer to the original question asked... does anyone know how to adjust the thickness of the raft? I want to print about 5mm of raft to completely remove the warping and shrinking that happens on corners, whether or not it stays stuck to the build plate. Once that's answered (is it simply just not possible?). Are there then other ways to reduce the warping and shrinking? We have the UM2 with heated bed, with larger rectangular parts, even if they stick all the way round to the build plate, we're finding it still creates a necked in section for the first 5mm or so - especially round the corners.