medicalmodeller

This is an interesting way to create a direct drive extruder............. Ultimaker 2+ direct drive extruder conversion, Nantgaredig by dpletsas - Thingiverse TM

Just watched a Youtube about printing on PEI. He clearly says that with TPU one should set the bed to 30C. So I had it too hot and thus destroyed my sheet of PEI Live and learn TM

In the end I made a little 2 part box, with slots at each end. I put sponge inside onto which I put some 3 in 1 oil. Seemed easier than dripping oil onto the filament

So I printed using the settings that you suggested and by adding a little oil to the filament by having it pass through a box with a sponge inside that I oiled. The print completed eventually. My new problem is that the print stuck so well to my PEI sheet that it pulled off a section when I levered the print off. I had used some Magigoo but maybe not enough. Or is it that flexible filament can bind to PEI? Never ending! TM

Thanks gr5. I have seen that some people made a little sponge holder and wet the sponge with lubricant. Then the filament runs over the sponge to get a film of lubricant. I am going to make my own. Can I ask which oil you use? Edit: I have found the post where you give details Thanks

So to resurrect this thread.......... I would like to be able to print flexible material on my UM2Go+ and having had real problems on my UM3 I think I need a direct drive feeder and can put one onto the UM2GO+. I have been in discussion with the guy at Ultimaker – Flex3Drive One thing I'd need to do is also the firmware for the pin settings. Is it correct that this means editing the HEX file itself? How easy is this to do??? THanks TM

@fergazz Did you get the H2 to work? I am looking for a reliable Direct Drive to use with my UM2Go+ that has the same printhead as the UM2+

Can I resurrect this thread? I own an UM3 and an UM2Go - that has the same print head as an UM2+ I am having real problems printing flexible material on my UM3. I wonder what the cure might be I understand that a direct drive feeder is not really possible on the UM3. However would upgrading the feeder to Bondtech VV2 extruder helps on the UM3?? The other option is to make a Zero Gravity Feeder for the UM2Go. Am I right that it should work albeit with a short drive shaft of course?? THanks

Ugh!. Failed again. The filament bunches up in the feeder. The nozzle does not seem to be blocked since if I unload and immediately load, material comes out the nozzle I have increased the grip in the feeder I have increased the hot end temperature I have slowed down the speed to 20 I put a fan on the feeder to cool the filament I am running out of ideas.

I wonder if its retraction with this flexible stuff. I will turn off and try again

Can anyone help me? I have an UM3 and am trying to print something that takes 6 hours. I am printing Flexifil. It says print 220-260C. The print failed after 4 hours. I assumed that the nozzle was jammed so removed the filament and I could see that the feeder had been grinding without the filament moving. I cleared the nozzle using the Atomic technique. I then opened the feeder to clean it out as I have not done this for ages. I reassembled and started the print again. I increased the nozzle temperature to 260. This time it failed with a jam after about 1 hour. Has anyone any advice on how to print reliably with FLexifil??? Should I tighten the feeder to maximum?? SHould I increase the temperature even more? Thanks

Please could I know how to enable OpenSCad to work with Autotowers generator 2.6.0? I wish to make a tower for FOrmfutura's Flexifil that prints 200-230. I have Cura 5.4.0 I am a novice and do not understand when people talk about flatback etc? THanks

I bought my heated bed from Gr5 on this forum. It works fine. You'd have to ask him directly for its specification TM

I have an Ultimaker 3. I am printing an item that takes over 24hrs to complete. I am printing in ASA that likes a warm environment and no draughts. I have the printer in a large cupboard and I close one of the two doors to keep the environment warm. However I worry about leaving home with the printer running. Could it catch fire or is there a thermal cut out that would cut the power if it got too hot?? Thanks

Fumes are not a problem. I have used the Buildtak surface on their Flexplate and the surface does not do well with the high temp for ASA I have used high temp Zyflex from Zimple. It is fine for small items but for large items it starts to lose its magnetic grip The best seems to be Hawkung PEI sheet stuck onto the metal plate from the Buildtak system. Problem was that the ASA stuck too well.... I have recently been using Magigoo on the PEI surface. Its a clever glue that is sticky when hot but not when cool. Makes getting the prints off much easier 240 for nozzle and 90 for the bed work for me with 0.4AA I do have a front cover for the UM£ and now print inside a cupboard to keep the temperature up. I have the fans at 10% Good luck