medicalmodeller

This is an interesting way to create a direct drive extruder............. Ultimaker 2+ direct drive extruder conversion, Nantgaredig by dpletsas - Thingiverse TM

Just watched a Youtube about printing on PEI. He clearly says that with TPU one should set the bed to 30C. So I had it too hot and thus destroyed my sheet of PEI Live and learn TM

In the end I made a little 2 part box, with slots at each end. I put sponge inside onto which I put some 3 in 1 oil. Seemed easier than dripping oil onto the filament

So I printed using the settings that you suggested and by adding a little oil to the filament by having it pass through a box with a sponge inside that I oiled. The print completed eventually. My new problem is that the print stuck so well to my PEI sheet that it pulled off a section when I levered the print off. I had used some Magigoo but maybe not enough. Or is it that flexible filament can bind to PEI? Never ending! TM

Thanks gr5. I have seen that some people made a little sponge holder and wet the sponge with lubricant. Then the filament runs over the sponge to get a film of lubricant. I am going to make my own. Can I ask which oil you use? Edit: I have found the post where you give details Thanks

So to resurrect this thread.......... I would like to be able to print flexible material on my UM2Go+ and having had real problems on my UM3 I think I need a direct drive feeder and can put one onto the UM2GO+. I have been in discussion with the guy at Ultimaker – Flex3Drive One thing I'd need to do is also the firmware for the pin settings. Is it correct that this means editing the HEX file itself? How easy is this to do??? THanks TM

@fergazz Did you get the H2 to work? I am looking for a reliable Direct Drive to use with my UM2Go+ that has the same printhead as the UM2+

Can I resurrect this thread? I own an UM3 and an UM2Go - that has the same print head as an UM2+ I am having real problems printing flexible material on my UM3. I wonder what the cure might be I understand that a direct drive feeder is not really possible on the UM3. However would upgrading the feeder to Bondtech VV2 extruder helps on the UM3?? The other option is to make a Zero Gravity Feeder for the UM2Go. Am I right that it should work albeit with a short drive shaft of course?? THanks

Ugh!. Failed again. The filament bunches up in the feeder. The nozzle does not seem to be blocked since if I unload and immediately load, material comes out the nozzle I have increased the grip in the feeder I have increased the hot end temperature I have slowed down the speed to 20 I put a fan on the feeder to cool the filament I am running out of ideas.

I wonder if its retraction with this flexible stuff. I will turn off and try again

Can anyone help me? I have an UM3 and am trying to print something that takes 6 hours. I am printing Flexifil. It says print 220-260C. The print failed after 4 hours. I assumed that the nozzle was jammed so removed the filament and I could see that the feeder had been grinding without the filament moving. I cleared the nozzle using the Atomic technique. I then opened the feeder to clean it out as I have not done this for ages. I reassembled and started the print again. I increased the nozzle temperature to 260. This time it failed with a jam after about 1 hour. Has anyone any advice on how to print reliably with FLexifil??? Should I tighten the feeder to maximum?? SHould I increase the temperature even more? Thanks

Please could I know how to enable OpenSCad to work with Autotowers generator 2.6.0? I wish to make a tower for FOrmfutura's Flexifil that prints 200-230. I have Cura 5.4.0 I am a novice and do not understand when people talk about flatback etc? THanks

I bought my heated bed from Gr5 on this forum. It works fine. You'd have to ask him directly for its specification TM

I have an Ultimaker 3. I am printing an item that takes over 24hrs to complete. I am printing in ASA that likes a warm environment and no draughts. I have the printer in a large cupboard and I close one of the two doors to keep the environment warm. However I worry about leaving home with the printer running. Could it catch fire or is there a thermal cut out that would cut the power if it got too hot?? Thanks

Fumes are not a problem. I have used the Buildtak surface on their Flexplate and the surface does not do well with the high temp for ASA I have used high temp Zyflex from Zimple. It is fine for small items but for large items it starts to lose its magnetic grip The best seems to be Hawkung PEI sheet stuck onto the metal plate from the Buildtak system. Problem was that the ASA stuck too well.... I have recently been using Magigoo on the PEI surface. Its a clever glue that is sticky when hot but not when cool. Makes getting the prints off much easier 240 for nozzle and 90 for the bed work for me with 0.4AA I do have a front cover for the UM£ and now print inside a cupboard to keep the temperature up. I have the fans at 10% Good luck

ASA is not difficult to print. I made my own material profile. To stop delamination, it helps to have a door/cover on the front of the printer and no draughts. I also have the fans at 10%, print at 240deg and bed at 90deg ASA is useful as it is UV resistant. So good for boat parts! TM

Have printed lots with ASA from Filamentum. I do not print onto glass. I was using the BuildTak FlexPlate system. However the higher temperature for ASA seemed not to suit the surface. So I then put a PEI sheet onto the flex plate and that works quite well. My problem was now more that the ASA stuck too well. So now use Magigoo on the sheet. It is sticky when warm but not when cold. On my Ultimaker 2 Go I now print onto Zyflex. I do not use the Magigoo for PLA but I do for ASA. The Zyflex surface works on the magnetic base of the Buildtak. If you have an Ultimaker with automatic levelling, it does not work at all with Buildtak and damages the softer Zyflex. I would strong recommend having one or other flexible and removable surface. So much easier Boyd

I have an inverter on board that supplies AC voltage. But the inverter uses power as does the PSU. So I would like to go straight from boat's 24v DC. The power brick for the U2G is 24v so I guess I just need a 4 pin DIN connected correctly! MM

I am planning to take my U2Go onto my boat. As the boat has both 12v and 24v DC available I wondered to avoid using the power supply unit that requires AC. Has anyone powered straight from DC supply? THanks MedicalModeller

I print with ASA a lot and when I load filament the choice on filaments does not include ASA. So I generally choose nylon so the print head is nice and hot Is this the right thing to do? Is there a firmware update that includes ASA as a profile so that I do not get warnings THanks

I have an Ultimaker 3. I have a BuildTak flex plate covered with PEI sheet. I am currently printing ASA My problem is that the first few layers are very inconsistent. I have relevelled several times but its no better. The metal plate does not look distorted. Do I need a new plate or a complete set with magnets too???

For what its worth, I have an Ultimaker 3 and the BuildTak system. I found that the auto levelling simply did not work and I disabled it and just do manual levelling For ASA that needs a very hot bed, I found the BuildTak black surface did not survive so I now use PEI on the removable metal plate MM

Just a quick note to say that when using Cura it advised to change the flavor to Marlin. Then you can change the heated bed settings for materials. I found how to do this on another thread but thought I would add it here for completeness in Cura: "Settings -> Printer -> Manage Printers... -> Machine Settings" TN

I upgraded the motor and feeder using the one that is in the UM2 to UM2+ pack. The feeder is the same as on a UM3. It works nicely. I did have to make the holes for the motor with a hole drill and finish off with a Drexel.

Now I have done this, I realise that the simplest way to add a new material is to Export printer settings to the SD card Open the file in notebook in order to edit Copy and past the file I have posted and simply amend the fields and then import the file back into the printer. MM