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jerry-blade

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Everything posted by jerry-blade

  1. I was wondering that actually about stainless steel - good point! Let me know if you find a Chromium Plated Brass or Hardened Copper Alloy Nozzle!
  2. Also, with the new colorFabb XT-CF20 Carbon Fiber filament, they recommend the following: Any suggestion on where to get a quality Stainless Steel or Hardened Copper Alloy Nozzle for an UMO? Thanks -Jerry
  3. Haha I'm at 10:08 - had no idea he was filming until i saw the camera across the build platform while I was ogling the heated bed and new fan shroud
  4. Yep - It was awesome meeting George, Simon, and all the folks from Ultimaker! I had a great time and will definitely go back again every year! -Jerry
  5. https://www.ultimaker.com/blogs/news/2014/09/20/introducing-ultimaker-original-and-a-heated-bed-upgrade-kit It's officially official
  6. Heated Bed kits... must have... my preciousssss...
  7. I believe it is one upgrade kit since the heated bed and z-stage would be difficult (if not impossible) to separate as they basically reuse much of the solution on the UM2. The fan housing is really just a hood that replaces the existing snap-together-ready-to-melt-as-soon-as-you-print-anything-hotter-than-PLA solution. In theory, they could sell that one part all by itself. We did see some slides with pink unicorns... but nothing complete
  8. The z-stage upgrade looks to be the exact same z-stage as on the UM2, complete with glass print surface, metal base, new threaded rod, and three point leveling system. I believe a more formal announcement will come later today or tomorrow for sure. This information is coming from the group of us who were present at the informal announcement at the Shapeways factory last night
  9. Per Daid in the other thread mentioned above:
  10. I thought I remembered hearing last night that the UMO upgrade (with the heated bed, new z-stage, and hot end fan enclosure) includes a new PSU, and that some basic wire stripping / soldering may be required to piggyback/power the new mini heater electronics board via the UM electronics. This would only potentially work on an upgraded UMO since it has the two separate electronics boards, but couldn't you, in theory, use the new PSU and dedicate it to the heater board and leave the original PSU connected to the UMO electronics? You would have to plug in two PSUs but then wouldn't have a wattag
  11. Also, I thought I remembered hearing last night that the UMO upgrade (with the heated bed, new z-stage, and hot end fan enclosure) includes a new PSU, and that some basic wire stripping / soldering may be required to piggyback/power the new mini heater electronics board via the UM electronics. This would only potentially work on an upgraded UMO since it has the two separate electronics boards, but couldn't you, in theory, use the new PSU and dedicate it to the heater board and leave the original PSU connected to the UMO electronics? You would have to plug in two PSUs but then wouldn't have a
  12. Interesting - I will ask more questions with the R&D folks at the Maker Faire tomorrow. There has to be a solution...
  13. I asked that same question last night, and the answer is yes!
  14. Here is a close up shot of the Ultimaker Original+ from last night: I can't wait to get the upgrade kit!!!
  15. I just made #8... :shock: woo hoo!
  16. That's a great idea - I'm going to do that sometime after the Maker Faire this weekend since I am pretty sure I will have a new heated bed to install if the rumors prove true... :cool: Thanks!
  17. Yeah I was guessing my springs aren't tight enough right now. 6mm at the back and probably 10-12mm at the front sounds loose based on your description. I'm going to push the back springs to maybe 1mm, and level from there. The good news, is I get an extra 5mm build height should I choose to print anything that high! I started looking into building a heated glass bed with an aluminum z-stage, but once I started hearing the "rumors" about what is coming soon, I decided to wait... and am definitely planning on buying something that weekend. Whatever it is, I am sure I will *have* to have it, my
  18. Any thoughts? How tight does everyone else have these screwed down? The acrylic build platform, at the back of the printer, is roughly 6mm away from the z-stage base right now...
  19. This is how my Ultimaker Original is set "normally", and I adjust the screws from there. Is this too "loose"? How tight should they be? I don't want to compress the springs to the point where they lose their elasticity, but at the same time, i don't want them so loose that the bed is "spongy" when the hot-end applies pressure during extrusion. Aside from getting occasional first layer issues (i.e. drags filament all over the place which then cakes on the nozzle forcing a restart), once the unit gets going, it does an excellent job of printing. Also, for successful prints, bed adhesion is exce
  20. This sounds like something you might consider recording and posting for those of us that live too far to attend this amazing event! I would love to learn more about the Colorfabb filaments!
  21. plus the half Printed one and used it (with the heated nut trick) - thanks!
  22. This was the culprit - After inspecting them, I noticed several were loose... I am printing some replacement inside/outside endcaps... since replacing the nuts is going to be a royal PITA... having the nuts locked in on the inside caps, and having a way to calibrate the outside caps with a metal-on-metal point of contact (after rounding the bolts with a dremel) should reduce potential friction quite a bit. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:99113 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:54075 Thanks for giving me some places to look! -Jerry
  23. Yeah I was just wondering if there were any likely candidates that seem to happen more often than others. Time to go through the machine with a magnifying glass...
  24. Sorry my bad - it was the nuts that dropped out not the bolts which makes it more difficult because all the bolts are m3...
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