Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Blizz last won the day on April 23 2015

Blizz had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

53 Excellent

Personal Information

  • Country

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Feeder wise you'll probably have exactly the same issues. Mine was originally an UM2 but I upgraded it and can't remember that space not being there.
  2. Just to be sure: I didn't mean that it happens during filament loading (I always load it by hand up to the nozzle), it happens during printing
  3. It's basically a new bowden tube, a different lever for the feeder and an insert for the nozzle. In my UM2 feeder there is a bit of room between the knurled wheel/roller and the output to the bowden. The filament just "kinks" due to the higher speed and is fed within the feeder until everything jams. Guess that's one of the main reasons feeder/bowden type printers use 2.85mm 1.75 is more suited for direct drive. I also really don't like that insert in the nozzle, it needs to sit perfectly or it gets pulled out during retraction. It would've been better if the kit was developed with
  4. @Torgeir he did mention he bought the conversion kit as well. It's pretty easy, a .gcode file is just a text file, so all you need to do is create a new file, add the 2 lines and save as a .gcode: M92 E978 M500 But you have to figure out what the normal e-step is so that you can adjust the number, 978 probably won't be the right one for you. When done, just save it to your SD card (or however you get your files in the printer) and run it. It'll take a couple seconds and it's set. Alternatively, just connect it via USB and you can send commands vi
  5. Thanks, was pretty much the expected answer. I'll modify the setting and try again.
  6. Hey fellow makers, I've recently converted my old and trusty UM2+ to 1.75mm with the mosiac convertion kit, given that all my other printers are using that and I stopped stocking 2.85. I do love cura though and don't want to use their (crappy, sorry) cloud software. I've updated the printer settings to indicate it has a 1.75mm extruder, but I'm still experiencing massive underextrusion. Have to ramp up the material flow to 245% to get a good result. Now, seeing that 2.85mm is about 2.65x the volume per height than 1.75mm, I'm suspecting that it is somehow sti
  7. Think there might be something wrong mechanically with your printer then... I'm using 3.2 as well and apart from the blob things print as nicely as ever. On topic: Just went back tot the firmware included with 3.1 and now testing a new print, hopefully the blob is no more.
  8. I also used Cura 3.2.1 to upgrade the firmware. On the printer it went from 2.6.2 to 2.6.2 so I figured nothing changed (even though it flashed). I'll also reflash with the older version and see if that solves it.
  9. Yes, Mac here as well. Haven't been able to check yet if I have 3.2.1 or 3.2 but I usually update to the last version right away when I get the notification.
  10. My UM2+ also still uses the extruder from my original UM2, if that is any help. Sounds like it might be the same issue.
  11. Since a week or so (nothing changed except maybe newer cura version), my UM2+ finishes a print by starting to grind the filament at the end at higher speed whilst pushing out a huge blob of material on top of my print. Any ideas where I need to start looking to see what happens? I use Cura 3.2 to slice my models.
  12. Yes, it's what I also suspect, hence the remark at the end. What is annoying is that Cura can obviously detect that the piece "out there" is nothing it should print, as the slicing indicates once you get it into an orientation that "fits". Older versions used to have detection and repair routines for things like that. This is the model in question btw.
  13. Wanted to print a model but Cura projects some kind of shadow and indicates it unprintable (won't fit). Simplify3D has no such reservations. I managed to rotate it in such a way that the shadow would also fit on the build plate (in a corner, shadow going diagonally) and then looked at the layer view. No travels or any kind of printing going on beyond the model. If it's like a stray piece of model that far out, isn't it possible to somehow detect and repair that?
  14. Titus I know, was just saying that (for future reference) I didn't need it at all I printed at 240/60 w/o fans.
  • Create New...