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Blizz

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Everything posted by Blizz

  1. Feeder wise you'll probably have exactly the same issues. Mine was originally an UM2 but I upgraded it and can't remember that space not being there.
  2. Just to be sure: I didn't mean that it happens during filament loading (I always load it by hand up to the nozzle), it happens during printing
  3. It's basically a new bowden tube, a different lever for the feeder and an insert for the nozzle. In my UM2 feeder there is a bit of room between the knurled wheel/roller and the output to the bowden. The filament just "kinks" due to the higher speed and is fed within the feeder until everything jams. Guess that's one of the main reasons feeder/bowden type printers use 2.85mm 1.75 is more suited for direct drive. I also really don't like that insert in the nozzle, it needs to sit perfectly or it gets pulled out during retraction. It would've been better if the kit was developed with a 1.75mm nozzle instead. I suspect that would make it more technical to install as ultimaker is more focussed on "just work" and less "tinker" and replacing a nozzle and recalibrating the bed is a bit more complex. No idea... That or a higher profit margin 🙂
  4. @Torgeir he did mention he bought the conversion kit as well. It's pretty easy, a .gcode file is just a text file, so all you need to do is create a new file, add the 2 lines and save as a .gcode: M92 E978 M500 But you have to figure out what the normal e-step is so that you can adjust the number, 978 probably won't be the right one for you. When done, just save it to your SD card (or however you get your files in the printer) and run it. It'll take a couple seconds and it's set. Alternatively, just connect it via USB and you can send commands via the monitoring tab in cura. Sent the M92 command first and then M500 (as mentioned in the first reply) I've removed the kit since then, not too happy about it, which is a shame. On my UM2 the strand bends in the feeder and is just pushed in there. Don't know if anything changed for the S5
  5. Thanks, was pretty much the expected answer. I'll modify the setting and try again.
  6. Hey fellow makers, I've recently converted my old and trusty UM2+ to 1.75mm with the mosiac convertion kit, given that all my other printers are using that and I stopped stocking 2.85. I do love cura though and don't want to use their (crappy, sorry) cloud software. I've updated the printer settings to indicate it has a 1.75mm extruder, but I'm still experiencing massive underextrusion. Have to ramp up the material flow to 245% to get a good result. Now, seeing that 2.85mm is about 2.65x the volume per height than 1.75mm, I'm suspecting that it is somehow still feeding as if it was 2.85mm and there is another setting somewhere that I have to update (e-steps perhaps?). Anyone who can help me out? Thanks!
  7. Think there might be something wrong mechanically with your printer then... I'm using 3.2 as well and apart from the blob things print as nicely as ever. On topic: Just went back tot the firmware included with 3.1 and now testing a new print, hopefully the blob is no more.
  8. I also used Cura 3.2.1 to upgrade the firmware. On the printer it went from 2.6.2 to 2.6.2 so I figured nothing changed (even though it flashed). I'll also reflash with the older version and see if that solves it.
  9. Yes, Mac here as well. Haven't been able to check yet if I have 3.2.1 or 3.2 but I usually update to the last version right away when I get the notification.
  10. My UM2+ also still uses the extruder from my original UM2, if that is any help. Sounds like it might be the same issue.
  11. Since a week or so (nothing changed except maybe newer cura version), my UM2+ finishes a print by starting to grind the filament at the end at higher speed whilst pushing out a huge blob of material on top of my print. Any ideas where I need to start looking to see what happens? I use Cura 3.2 to slice my models.
  12. Yes, it's what I also suspect, hence the remark at the end. What is annoying is that Cura can obviously detect that the piece "out there" is nothing it should print, as the slicing indicates once you get it into an orientation that "fits". Older versions used to have detection and repair routines for things like that. This is the model in question btw.
  13. Wanted to print a model but Cura projects some kind of shadow and indicates it unprintable (won't fit). Simplify3D has no such reservations. I managed to rotate it in such a way that the shadow would also fit on the build plate (in a corner, shadow going diagonally) and then looked at the layer view. No travels or any kind of printing going on beyond the model. If it's like a stray piece of model that far out, isn't it possible to somehow detect and repair that?
  14. Titus I know, was just saying that (for future reference) I didn't need it at all I printed at 240/60 w/o fans.
  15. The CF I printed so far didn't require any extra adhesion to stick. As a matter of fact, I haven't been using the gluestick for a very long time. For the bigger parts where there is more of a chance of warping I tend to use the good old fashioned hairspray trick and that is usually enough
  16. @DidierKlein or you can use a pronterface or run some specific g-code to change the value. I just used the fact that I'm running TinkerGnome's firmware, you can directly see and modify all step values via the LCD.
  17. @Korneel: As stated, my e-steps was still configured for 282 when it needed to be 369 for the new extruder. It prints ok now (Well, apart from the persistent squeak I can't seem to find the source for, but that was already the case before the upgrade )
  18. @Oldtimer: Just an FYI: You can quote and reply to someone in a single message. No need to add 2 messages for that each time. Unless perhaps its a way to get your points up?
  19. Thanks to @Meduza I now know that the correct e-steps value is 369 (despite the correct UM2+ firmware my printer still had 282 stored, probably because I changed it manually sometime in the past and it kept using the value). So things are looking a lot better already:
  20. The one in the picture was sliced with Simplify3D and wall 0.8, but I'll reslice it with Cura and try again, just to be sure.
  21. So upgrading to the latest UM2+ FW set the E-Steps back to 282 (I used to have a different value due to using another knurled wheel), but I get the distinct impression that it's underextruding now. 0.8mm wall has 2 distinct lines now and the regular layer lines seem not to overlap either.. Any suggestions?
  22. Received mine in the beginning of this week. I waited until today to install it... Was waiting for an UM2+ compatible release of TinkerGnome firmware (after using that I can't fantom going back to stock). Anyhow, he released a build yesterday so I've upgraded the printer. Seems to be working well. I like the fact that the hotend cooling fan is tons quieter. No more drone-y sound the entire time.
  23. That is a sure thing... If they were to do like a video and just supply a box with the parts, I would be willing to consider it, but as I said, 18.30 is not doable for me, would have to take the days of and not being able to invoice 3 days, plus the cost of the workshop? It would become a VERY expensive upgrade... In the order of "buy a new ultimaker" even.
  24. Would love to. Unfortunately it's probably going to be during or just after the working day, like the Ulti-Evenings... Making it impossible for me to get there in a timely fashion (2 hour drive since I moved and I get home by 6pm)... Also 3 days... That's 1000km of driving Shame.
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