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Everything posted by Blizz

  1. Think there might be something wrong mechanically with your printer then... I'm using 3.2 as well and apart from the blob things print as nicely as ever. On topic: Just went back tot the firmware included with 3.1 and now testing a new print, hopefully the blob is no more.
  2. I also used Cura 3.2.1 to upgrade the firmware. On the printer it went from 2.6.2 to 2.6.2 so I figured nothing changed (even though it flashed). I'll also reflash with the older version and see if that solves it.
  3. Yes, Mac here as well. Haven't been able to check yet if I have 3.2.1 or 3.2 but I usually update to the last version right away when I get the notification.
  4. My UM2+ also still uses the extruder from my original UM2, if that is any help. Sounds like it might be the same issue.
  5. Since a week or so (nothing changed except maybe newer cura version), my UM2+ finishes a print by starting to grind the filament at the end at higher speed whilst pushing out a huge blob of material on top of my print. Any ideas where I need to start looking to see what happens? I use Cura 3.2 to slice my models.
  6. Yes, it's what I also suspect, hence the remark at the end. What is annoying is that Cura can obviously detect that the piece "out there" is nothing it should print, as the slicing indicates once you get it into an orientation that "fits". Older versions used to have detection and repair routines for things like that. This is the model in question btw.
  7. Wanted to print a model but Cura projects some kind of shadow and indicates it unprintable (won't fit). Simplify3D has no such reservations. I managed to rotate it in such a way that the shadow would also fit on the build plate (in a corner, shadow going diagonally) and then looked at the layer view. No travels or any kind of printing going on beyond the model. If it's like a stray piece of model that far out, isn't it possible to somehow detect and repair that?
  8. Titus I know, was just saying that (for future reference) I didn't need it at all I printed at 240/60 w/o fans.
  9. The CF I printed so far didn't require any extra adhesion to stick. As a matter of fact, I haven't been using the gluestick for a very long time. For the bigger parts where there is more of a chance of warping I tend to use the good old fashioned hairspray trick and that is usually enough
  10. @DidierKlein or you can use a pronterface or run some specific g-code to change the value. I just used the fact that I'm running TinkerGnome's firmware, you can directly see and modify all step values via the LCD.
  11. @Korneel: As stated, my e-steps was still configured for 282 when it needed to be 369 for the new extruder. It prints ok now (Well, apart from the persistent squeak I can't seem to find the source for, but that was already the case before the upgrade )
  12. @Oldtimer: Just an FYI: You can quote and reply to someone in a single message. No need to add 2 messages for that each time. Unless perhaps its a way to get your points up?
  13. Thanks to @Meduza I now know that the correct e-steps value is 369 (despite the correct UM2+ firmware my printer still had 282 stored, probably because I changed it manually sometime in the past and it kept using the value). So things are looking a lot better already:
  14. The one in the picture was sliced with Simplify3D and wall 0.8, but I'll reslice it with Cura and try again, just to be sure.
  15. So upgrading to the latest UM2+ FW set the E-Steps back to 282 (I used to have a different value due to using another knurled wheel), but I get the distinct impression that it's underextruding now. 0.8mm wall has 2 distinct lines now and the regular layer lines seem not to overlap either.. Any suggestions?
  16. Received mine in the beginning of this week. I waited until today to install it... Was waiting for an UM2+ compatible release of TinkerGnome firmware (after using that I can't fantom going back to stock). Anyhow, he released a build yesterday so I've upgraded the printer. Seems to be working well. I like the fact that the hotend cooling fan is tons quieter. No more drone-y sound the entire time.
  17. That is a sure thing... If they were to do like a video and just supply a box with the parts, I would be willing to consider it, but as I said, 18.30 is not doable for me, would have to take the days of and not being able to invoice 3 days, plus the cost of the workshop? It would become a VERY expensive upgrade... In the order of "buy a new ultimaker" even.
  18. Would love to. Unfortunately it's probably going to be during or just after the working day, like the Ulti-Evenings... Making it impossible for me to get there in a timely fashion (2 hour drive since I moved and I get home by 6pm)... Also 3 days... That's 1000km of driving Shame.
  19. Seriously... Did you have to include the complete gcode file?
  20. The "olsson block issues" thread is so slow because some idjit included a complete gcode file inline in his post. Might want to limit reaction length somewhat in the future too I think.
  21. Well I'll know soon enough (I hope... no idea when the kit will be shipped, will probably be a couple of weeks I'm afraid). I am planning on going back to the "stock"-feeder to try it. If changing the filament doesn't go as good as hoped I'm sure we'll be able to convince you to finish that re-design
  22. Indeed, I hope someone comes up with something like that... I mean, they obviously listened to the customers about a quick filament change solution... If it was tested and deemed needing a lot of force adding a lock seems fairly easy to add I guess. Guess we'll have to buy the ++-edition for that.
  23. Maintenance wise as well I can imagine.
  24. Version 1.0


    So here in Belgium it is mandated by law to have 2 large holes (150mm, one at floor level and one at ceiling level) in the wall of your house leading directly outside. These holes are right next to the gas installation and allow the evacuation of gas fumes if there should ever be a leak at the counter (see the last picture for how it looks). Problem is, its a very handy spot for all sorts of insects to enter the house. So as an exercise for a practical print, I made a sort of grate to place in the tube that still allows the gas to leave the house but (hopefully) prevents insects from entering
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