Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

jroen's Achievements



  1. Obviously this is an old post but maybe somebody can help me a bit. I have the same problem every now and then because the retraction at the end of a print is too much. When I start a new print I first have to take out the bowden tube, cut the filament, put it back together and then move the filament towards the end of the nozzle. When i don't do it like this, the ptfe coulper wears out very rapidly and many many times it gives underextrusion and feedmotor going toctoctoc. Where and how can I set the retraction at end of a print from 20 to say 4mm? In the firmware's hex file? Can't find the option in the UM2 settings either.
  2. I just took it out and it seems to be SY42STH38-1684A (both x and y) and they run very well. So I think the GT2 belts are wearing out a bit because they make some squirking sounds.
  3. Hello, My Ultimaker 2 (2014) makes a cracking sound comming from the Y - motor and it gets worse every day. This should be the motor according to the github specs: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/tree/master/1182_X%2CY_Motor_(x2) But what are the true specs, is it a NEMA17 0.9 deg? Can I replace it with this one?: http://reprapworld.com/?products_details&products_id/667/cPath/1614 If so I think I should only shorten the shaft and remount the connector. Strange thing I can't find it along the ultimaker spare-parts webshop. Hope you can help me out.
  4. Such a great and smart opportunity :-P Hope to get my UM2 back tomorrow from the repair center. I'll try to be there! I would like to buy an extra teflon part and some filament.
  5. Hey Sander, Thanks voor de aanvullende info. Ik snap best dat het niet meevalt iedereen altijd maar tevreden te houden. De printer is nu in weer terug naar Geldermalsen, hopelijk komt ie snel weer helemaal picobello terug. Ik mis 'm! Groeten Jeroen
  6. Ah halleluja, hij mag naar het repair center. Mijn dank is groot.
  7. Het is gissen naar een oorzaak. Ik kan ook wel van alles gaan suggereren maar laat ik het bij de feiten houden. Ik plaats het topic dan ook met grote tegenzin maar misschien gaat er nu wel ergens een belletje rinkelen. Adem in, adem uit.
  8. Hoe tevreden zijn jullie over de ultimaker 2 en de support? Ik ervaar niets anders dan ellende en een niet of nauwelijks reagerende supportafdeling. Een kleine opsomming: - Bij aankomst printer een beschadigde onderkap en een stekker los met temp-error als gevolg (nieuwe kap gekregen) - Onderextrusie met onduidelijke reden en zonder regelmaat. (nog steeds niet opgelost) - Versleten Teflon busje (nieuwe gekregen) - Gierende ventilator (nieuwe gekregen) - Kromme glasplaat (0,4mm) (nog geen reactie op gehad) - Z-as lagers kapot en zelf tijdelijk vervangen (nog geen nieuwe ontvangen) Hopelijk mag ik de printer nog omruilen of wordt alles netjes opgelost. Kan ik niet gewoon even een dagje Geldermalsen inplannen?
  9. Ik moet zeggen dat de Bronze van Ultimaker zelf ook erg bros is, valt me wel tegen. Een sluitinkje van een armbandje gaat dus echt niet.
  10. Thanks for thinking along. I'll give both a try. Loading an image in cura worked but the result was not exactly what i was looking for, but maybe when i prepare the image differently. It would surprise me when 123D can cope with it when Inventor (here big brother) can't but lets give it a try! Cheers
  11. I want to make a simple key ring / hanger. Using a random clipart image. I use Inventor, Inkscape and Gimp. How can i transform the clipart into a usable stl file to make a print? How would you do that?
  12. Still no answer from support but I think I got it under control now. The Tube coupling collet and it's clip were the main problems. Because they don't lock properly the bowden cable can move up a little bit above the nozzle. As a result the filament reaches a big diameter at the end of the tube and can't move for or backwards anymore. First idea was to increase friction in the feeder but that causes another problem, grinding. Now when I push in the bowden cable all the way, I pull up the coupling collet with my nails till it locks real good. I notice the blue clip is not high enough to lock it. It looks like a festo air-coupling but then you have air pressure to lock it and there there isn't of course. I have to find out how to post a picture but don't have enough time right now. Thank you all!
  13. Thanks for the quick response guys, i'll give it a try.
  14. Hello all, I've been printing with my new UM2 for a few days now but the last 2 days have been a true hell. It ruined about 6 or 7 of my latest prints. And support is down in the weekend? The filament jams. I thought the feeder caused the problem but now i'm sure it's somewhere in the nozzle area. For some reason the filament won't go forward OR backwards. When i release the bowden tube above the nozzle there is a small clod as large as the outside diameter of the bowden tube. Why does this happen? I think the lockingsytem of the bowden tube is much too weak. When i search for some specs about the tube i find this file: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/tree/master/1266_Bowden_tube_(x1'>https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/tree/master/1266_Bowden_tube_(x1'>https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/tree/master/1266_Bowden_tube_(x1'>https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/tree/master/1266_Bowden_tube_(x1) and is tells me there is a flared edge on the inside of the bowden. But my UM2 tube is not flared, it's just straight. But the document also tells me this is a ultimaker original bowden in the UM2 github section. https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2 What can i do to solve this? Why do i need to tinker a brand new machine? Thanks
  • Create New...