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bob-hepple

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Everything posted by bob-hepple

  1. question the parts are printed BUT the magnets are not a tight fit into the Head A where they marry up with the magnets in the coupling, in the coupling they are a smooth fit but will be pulled out by the magnetic pull, and in the head A they are a loose fit. Can they be superglued into the HeadA and can they be glued to the back of the coupling wings,, I printed 2 of the headA (one was a mistake) both have the same recess for the Mags and the same dimension (sloppy). I also printed 2 of the coupling (first one damaged getting off the Bed) but again the dimensions are the same on both (for the Mags) smooth fit. but inadequate.. I don't want to re print because I don't believe the prints are bad (both of them) it is only where the mags meet on the Head and the coupling all the other parts are good. I wondered if the mags are slightly under sized I got them from https://www.first4magnets.com/circular-disc-rod-magnets-c34/6mm-dia-x-3mm-thick-n42-neodymium-magnet-0-9kg-pull-p3566#ps_1-2566
  2. Stu thanks for asking I'm putting the printed parts to gether today but just found that the magnets are not a tight fit they push into the recess but don't stop there. I'm pondering the use of super glue ?? any thoughts, the printer is not apart at moment the wiring is next but time is scarce..
  3. Just thought I would show my Start on the mark 2 Modification and the Ultimaker started in Ernest to do the Mark 2 mod, sea below the Fan Shroud which I have Drawn Red for Mark 2 white for the UM (durr Obvioulsy :() I made the spacer and getting the head into Mark2 I'm Using 3D Solex Matchless Block's also Lined the Shrouds with Kapton Tape for a bit more protection but the material should be OK had used the same material with my Old Shroud and it is still going strong... Just thought it might be interesting to someone. will Post some more pics when I get back OFF to TCT Show
  4. thanks for all the replies, how do you make the holes smaller, to drill out without modifying the STL Havent used Cura for a long time now and un sure what setting I would use, no slur on cura its just what I got used to..
  5. Hi could I ask if anyone could give me advise on printing spall parts please,,, Ive been working on The Mark 2 Head parts and came to a problem, I'm using Simplify 3d and yes I know my retraction is high 6.50 and when I printed Head A, I obviously had a problem with the eyelets,, where retraction was just causing no print.. so I took retraction off completely and did another print with variable settings feature when it comes to small prints like the eylets would it make sense to half the retraction settings and speeds to cope with the situation,,, or is it more refined than that possibly going lower in percentages, as you can see from the second pic it worked but could of been a lot cleaner if the react and coast were mare suitable to small parts.. This is in prelude to printing a small Hinge I have in Mind I either make it in one or make it 2 either way it is small so was going to use .20 nozzle Help and Advise Welcomed
  6. I can confirm the error has gone on my machine Phew Thanks8)
  7. gr5 received my expensive Power Brick today from RS measured the voltage (not connected to Printer) 24.50 volts and breathed new life into my UM2 Phew I can now carry on printing the parts for the Mark 2 second head... Thanks for all the support just glad the main board was OK....
  8. GR5 Thanks for reply, I measured the 12.5v without the printer connected. I heave left the UM2 switched on and connected to supply WITHOUT it being plugged in for nearly 24hrs,, I going to try it again if nothing is working I suppose new power brick first.. found them R.S http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/products/6796889/?cm_mmc=UK-PPC-0212-_-Google_3_MPN_Exact-_-Mean_Well_PSF_430701_Desktop_Power_Supply-_-GS220A24-R7B&gclid=CjkKEQjwttWcBRCuhYjhouveusIBEiQAwjy8IO5HqroXrrMNd1VsmV-kLjD7UkweODs2sBdxc5_y6FPw_wcB Expensive..
  9. Neotko Thanks for this I will try it over weekend or Monday when I get a chance to strip the machine, Holding my breath really don't want to shell out at Moment don't have another machine to print the parts for the Mark 2 or I would have done the wiring while the machine is in bits.. Thanks will report.. Thanks
  10. Just checked the power supply from the above link - it is outputting 12.5 volts has this a bearing or does the supply need to be in the board (under load)
  11. Neotko _ thanks for the reply didn't get that far, to plug anything in, it was a normal day printing the parts - then STOP lights out and dead.. gr5 thanks for the points I'll strip the board later today and check Voltages at the input, I guess if 24v is not there then its the supply if it is there and theres no 5v supply then its the board?? The machine is about 4 yrs old so thats warrenty out,, where can I get new boards from?? Uk authorived dealer 3dGBire dont list them,, I also found this thread from the Forum that GR5 had an input on https://ultimaker.com/en/community/11256-where-to-buy-power-supply-for-ultimaker-2 I downloaded the schematics.. if I end up buying a new board will the drivers for the second extruder be on there for the Mark 2 Mod,, I have all the bits and it would be money waisted if they are not on the board. thanks for all the replies appreciated..
  12. Like I said, I sw off everything, and when I sw on I hear relays.
  13. Hi All while doing the parts for the Mark 2 Mod the machine just died, no power on the machine, the power supply is still lit up blue, when I switch on the machine I hear a relay click but nothing else,, I take it the mother board has a fuse, what should be the first things to check if any before I strip to the board.
  14. I see a lot of talk about fixing issues with the forum but nothing is happening even security warnings as reported???
  15. ultiarjan thanks for that I will take your advise and stick to the plan of the Mark 2.
  16. I make my own cables it is not that much hassle. and parts are readily available.
  17. Don't really get that, are you saying make sure I have a spare board in case I blow it OR are you saying count the drivers and make sure it original UM board?? this was My mother board last time I had it to bit's. no I have not seen that version, is it better ??
  18. Have slowly gathered all parts except for wiring , to do the Mark 2 Mod, I use s3D will this mod work with this software, or am I forced to use Cura,, I notice that it seems to have died down from the initial rush of Blood, which I think is a pity.. is there still development on this mod before I hack my UM2.. just want to be sure it will work and be something that is being developed.
  19. Just Maybe chaps, its not what it can do for the professional's or for the people who play with there machine to get the absolute best out of it, BUT perhaps to other people it is a benefit, and while not wanting to put people off from trying it, I applaud the information being put up hear, to encourage people who obviously have a ponshon for it, to try it.
  20. Neotko makes interesting reading?? s3D have been back intouch asking for my FFF files.. I had a little success below the three tenors black was printed at 190 and is total crap red was printed at 205 alot better but still Zits.. I listened to the people I purchased it off who told me stay away from 200 + they also supplied custom firmware, as the BCN is buggy.. wont be lisening to them again?? I think i am going to be in a position that I will have to compile my own firmware.. will wait till I hear fromS3D I will check all my code though and use 3.1 for a bit longer Thanks
  21. Paul looked at the stl files I would forget about that shroud personally, I think your waisting your time.. it looks more Gimmick than substance, my personal opinion.. you cant edit it
  22. I know all machines are different on my UM2 I print well below 200 around 185 / 190 where as on my sigma I only just started printing at 205 to get a decent print. going to give the calibration print your using a go, at 0.1, yeah bridges for me are also a problem.
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