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richardphat

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  1. Hi, I've had this issue for a while and been living with since (see attachment), but this time it's not acceptable because I know I can print much faster based on my experience. I want to get ridd of those travel movement (in blue) and infill (yellow) within the solid external perimeter. I've been playing with the resolution, layer perimeter and density, but did not get good results. Even changing the model STL, making more or less polygons was not a solution for that. Is there any plugin, or any other solution I can do to avoid that? Pretty sure my parts can be printed in 15-18 hours if not for the hindering travel and un-needed infill. Alternative link for the picture can be found here which has higher quality. http://www.mediafire.com/convkey/9faa/gx5m82r4aadmzs3zg.jpg
  2. You short fried the transistor by shorting the wire. It has to be that, happened to me. Edit: See the post I made http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/6568-fan-running-right-powering/&do=findComment&comment=60678
  3. Replacing the Z endstop will be impossible, at least not in 9 months. The plywood is also damaged, someone used a 6-32 screw which ends up breaking that spot. And because someone used a 6-32 screw to screw the endstop, well you know what happen....It just break in parts.
  4. So, I just don't know how you call this process, which is annoying. Pretty sure, this isn't the first time asking though. Anyways, our Ultimaker, the Z endstop is severely damaged and by the slight contact of the mechanical switch will just move the z enstop by couple of mm. I would like to start right off the bat without homing the bed because it is no longer relevant. I can use filler gage for the inconvenient or old fashion paper, it is not a problem. I do know UltiGcode allows you to do this, however, last time I tried, it was just messy it was way overextruding. So basically, I just need to skip the Z homing. Here's a short beginning of a G code. Do I just need to remove the line 15 G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops From M109 T0 S220.000000 T0 ;Sliced at: Tue 02-09-2014 18:49:42 ;Basic settings: Layer height: 0.1 Walls: 0.8 Fill: 0 ;Print time: #P_TIME# ;Filament used: #F_AMNT#m #F_WGHT#g ;Filament cost: #F_COST# ;M190 S70 ;Uncomment to add your own bed temperature line ;M109 S220 ;Uncomment to add your own temperature line G21 ;metric values G90 ;absolute positioning M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode M107 ;start with the fan off G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops G1 Z15.0 F9000 ;move the platform down 15mm G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length G1 F200 E3 ;extrude 3mm of feed stock G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again G1 F9000 ;Put printing message on LCD screen M117 Printing... ;Layer count: 1598 ;LAYER:0 M107 G0 F9000 X74.61 Y61.78 Z0.30 ;TYPE:SKIRT G1 F1200 X76.53 Y60.39 E0.04469 G1 X111.90 Y48.90 E0.74411 G1 X113.82 Y50.29 E0.78879 G1 X135.68 Y80.38 E1.48832 G1 X134.94 Y82.64 E1.53301 G1 X113.09 Y112.71 E2.23226 G1 X110.72 Y112.72 E2.27692 G1 X75.35 Y101.23 E2.97646 G1 X74.61 Y98.97 E3.02116 G1 X74.61 Y61.78 E3.72068 G1 F2400 E-0.77932 G0 F9000 X78.41 Y63.77 ;TYPE:WALL-INNER
  5. My fan are always on, a custom for the peek and another custom "nozzle fan". I use 90C for the heated bed, and I use Elmer dissapearing purple glue for ABS.
  6. Well, ABS can be a pain in the butt to print. I print mine at 230C, 30 or 50mm/s. Try and see if it works. Also, if you can cover the side of your UM1 with acrylic/glass. I know my teacher got lots of trouble with his Affinia, our school runs air conditioner so he had to improvise with plastic container.
  7. I still believe it has something with heating issue. Can you upload the stl file?
  8. Translucide filament are like that, they have a level of clearness. The thicker you build the layer, the more white-ish it becomes. That being said, your white filament becomes slithly yellow which can be a a problem in the future. ABS tends to becomes "caramel" for heating issue and it's sticky and hard to clean!
  9. Hey, quite curious, is it needed to clean the nozzle in acetone bath for 1-2 days before swapping to PLA filaments? Or I can go straight and insert the filament to the feeder.
  10. I had this issue since I accidentally screwed up. It's not a dramatic issue and to be honest I could live with it. It began when I start installing the Ulticontrol kit. I could nicely adjust the fan speed, forcing to run or turning off. Until that day, I managed to short circuit the fan connection. Don't ask me how, I just did it by connecting another fan. The whole machine shut itself down. I then re-power and realize the fan was starting right off the bat. Now, I can no longer control the fan speed and I can't turn it off. Do I have to reinstall the firmware? Edit: I tried to reset to default through the menu already :(
  11. Off topic question, would it be better to print directly on paint tape in that case? I can understand that it's not everyone that is willing to damage the glass/spend lot of time taping. I am curious to know which one does best at the end of the day. We are planning to print really large parts that cover the whole printable surface. I am talking about the PLA of course.
  12. To complement Eldrick, if you print ABS in the future, make sure the Elmer's glue has dissapearing purple.
  13. That is pretty much what I get for the 100 microns and 200 microns. It seems bad when you print straight vertical, until you print angling wall which makes a complete difference.
  14. I would appreciate it. It doesn't matter if the shape isn't in great condition. It is probably far better than using tie wrap
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