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richardphat

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  1. Hi, I've had this issue for a while and been living with since (see attachment), but this time it's not acceptable because I know I can print much faster based on my experience. I want to get ridd of those travel movement (in blue) and infill (yellow) within the solid external perimeter. I've been playing with the resolution, layer perimeter and density, but did not get good results. Even changing the model STL, making more or less polygons was not a solution for that. Is there any plugin, or any other solution I can do to avoid that? Pretty sure my parts can be printed in 15-18 hours
  2. You short fried the transistor by shorting the wire. It has to be that, happened to me. Edit: See the post I made http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/6568-fan-running-right-powering/&do=findComment&comment=60678
  3. Replacing the Z endstop will be impossible, at least not in 9 months. The plywood is also damaged, someone used a 6-32 screw which ends up breaking that spot. And because someone used a 6-32 screw to screw the endstop, well you know what happen....It just break in parts.
  4. So, I just don't know how you call this process, which is annoying. Pretty sure, this isn't the first time asking though. Anyways, our Ultimaker, the Z endstop is severely damaged and by the slight contact of the mechanical switch will just move the z enstop by couple of mm. I would like to start right off the bat without homing the bed because it is no longer relevant. I can use filler gage for the inconvenient or old fashion paper, it is not a problem. I do know UltiGcode allows you to do this, however, last time I tried, it was just messy it was way overextruding. So basically, I just
  5. My fan are always on, a custom for the peek and another custom "nozzle fan". I use 90C for the heated bed, and I use Elmer dissapearing purple glue for ABS.
  6. Well, ABS can be a pain in the butt to print. I print mine at 230C, 30 or 50mm/s. Try and see if it works. Also, if you can cover the side of your UM1 with acrylic/glass. I know my teacher got lots of trouble with his Affinia, our school runs air conditioner so he had to improvise with plastic container.
  7. I still believe it has something with heating issue. Can you upload the stl file?
  8. Translucide filament are like that, they have a level of clearness. The thicker you build the layer, the more white-ish it becomes. That being said, your white filament becomes slithly yellow which can be a a problem in the future. ABS tends to becomes "caramel" for heating issue and it's sticky and hard to clean!
  9. Hey, quite curious, is it needed to clean the nozzle in acetone bath for 1-2 days before swapping to PLA filaments? Or I can go straight and insert the filament to the feeder.
  10. I had this issue since I accidentally screwed up. It's not a dramatic issue and to be honest I could live with it. It began when I start installing the Ulticontrol kit. I could nicely adjust the fan speed, forcing to run or turning off. Until that day, I managed to short circuit the fan connection. Don't ask me how, I just did it by connecting another fan. The whole machine shut itself down. I then re-power and realize the fan was starting right off the bat. Now, I can no longer control the fan speed and I can't turn it off. Do I have to reinstall the firmware? Edit: I tried to reset to d
  11. Off topic question, would it be better to print directly on paint tape in that case? I can understand that it's not everyone that is willing to damage the glass/spend lot of time taping. I am curious to know which one does best at the end of the day. We are planning to print really large parts that cover the whole printable surface. I am talking about the PLA of course.
  12. To complement Eldrick, if you print ABS in the future, make sure the Elmer's glue has dissapearing purple.
  13. That is pretty much what I get for the 100 microns and 200 microns. It seems bad when you print straight vertical, until you print angling wall which makes a complete difference.
  14. I would appreciate it. It doesn't matter if the shape isn't in great condition. It is probably far better than using tie wrap
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