Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

11 Good
  1. I made this for the library this week. It seems like somebody was a bit too rough (that's being polite about it) when inserting a SD card into the printer. The card ejector broke and there was glass falling off the LCD screen, and the LCD is now missing some lines. A replacement front panel is about $45 shipped from AliExpress, so a month worth of downtime, and a whopping $90 from Ultimaker OEM... Plus... I've already replaced the front panel once this year. The replacement panel from AliExpress had some quirks, the wheel now works backwards in comparison to OEM, and the LED colors are wrong. So I'd rather not deal with that again. So I designed this fix. It includes a SD card extender so cards can be used again. There's a cavity holding a sheet of polycarbonate to protect the LCD. The button-wheel is now protected by a door that can be lifted up by a finger, and drops back down via gravity (also the door can't be removed). If you think volunteering at a library sounds boring, you are WRONG. I also taught a police officer stuff today, I can't talk about what... but you bet I had fun talking with him. (sorry Ultimaker, as long as I'm volunteering there, this library won't be buying a new printer, you've made it too repairable, I don't think there's a single part on this printer that I don't have a plan for, plus I own one myself) Here's something else I did last year:
  2. Can we keep the "open file" icon even in preview mode? And can we automatically go back to "prepare" mode if we select "delete all models"/"clear build plate"? (or even just go to "prepare" mode whenever there's nothing at all) Thanks I don't like the extra step of clicking "prepare" before clicking "open file". (yes I know there are hotkeys, I'm also on a tablet half the time, btw touch support would be nice but I'm not going to ask for it yet)
  3. Yes, I mentioned that. But these are Ultimaker 2+ machines with the geared extruders and they can handle another foot of teflon tubing no problem. These are not the Ultimaker 2 without the geared extruder that had the problems with friction.
  4. Original post at http://eleccelerator.com/switching-the-public-library-3d-printers-to-use-cartridges/ Ha, that title makes me sound so evil. See… this library actually leaves their 3D printers unsupervised, and the patrons use them how they please. I love it, getting people exposed to the latest tech is our goal. But this means that people do not realize how to properly remove filament from the printers, leading to tangles and knots in the filament spools. A single mistake could essentially render a $20 spool useless, it becomes a time bomb for printer jams, making people unhappy. No amount of posters or instructions booklets could embed the same kind of discipline that a 3D printer owner has regarding filament treatment. Just a simple mistake of letting the filament go could cause a knot in the spool. My solution… make them use cartridges that make it hard to make mistakes. These cartridges must be cheap, fast to make, easy to understand, reusable, and do not require modifying the printer to use. Don’t worry, there’s no DRM bull**** and they are adjustable to fit any standard spools. If my idea causes more problems than it solves, simply clip all the zip ties and go back to status-quo. It’s just two plates, sandwiching a spool, with 3 zip ties to make sure the spool doesn’t fall out but still allow the spool to spin. The magic is the teflon tube that’s attached to one of the plates … … which serves the purpose of controlling the bend radius to reduce feed resistance, and also to keep the filament captive. This means, when the filament is removed from the printer, the user doesn’t have to even think about holding on to the end of the filament, they don’t have to be disciplined and remember to secure the tail end of the filament. The end of the tube butts up against the extruder box naturally without needing to secure it. Teflon is used because it is very low friction. All of this means while the whole device does add a bit of feeding resistance, it still makes it easier for the filament to feed than the standard Ultimaker filament guide (which people forget to use, and is also broken on one printer). I made a batch of 8. Despite the massive size, the plates prints really fast, because I am using a 1.5mm diameter nozzle. With a package of zip ties and a roll of teflon tubing, I can hammer out these cartridges really fast. I also have some very concise but easily understood labels on it so people can use it without any prior instructions. (notice the three light blue spools above, which is attributed to kids “problem solving” tangles with scissors) When the spool is empty, just cut one of the zip ties, insert a new spool, and re-apply another zip tie. You could use other things instead of zip ties (possibly velcro, twist ties, shoe laces) but petty theft by 5 year olds is still a possibility, so I settled with zip ties with dabs of superglue. Today was deployment day. I’m happy to report that I went to lunch and found that people have swapped the filament correctly without me even informing anybody about how to use them. So 1/2 mission accomplished, hopefully they work well and people notice that their prints stop failing so much. This is what I do as a volunteer at the South San Francisco Public Library.
  5. I designed a peristaltic pump using Onshape. I 3D printed it using a Ultimaker2 printer, and other parts include some ball bearings, flexible tubing, a DC motor gearbox, and some circuitry. It's purpose is to pump blended food into a person's feeding tube when they cannot physically eat, it was built for my grandfather while he was treating esophagus cancer. Check it out here: http://www.bocabearings.com/innovation-contest/ContestantDetails.aspx?ProjectID=221 It is entered into the Boca Bearings Innovation Contest. If you like it, please give me a vote. Thanks. Some of these parts took 30 hours to print because everything was printed at 100% infill. Everything is super thick for strength. The project is CAD'ed on Onshape, while I was in China, using the 4G network and I also had to hop through a VPN service (I think AWS was blocked), on a Microsoft Surface tablet. I think it's a pretty good testament to the usefulness of cloud CAD. The public Onshape workspace is linked here.
  6. I feel like applying some every time I see some dark streaks on my rods. Not sure if that's correct. I still have enough of the green packet that shipped with the UM2 for one more application.
  7. OK thanks, is this one acceptable? http://www.amazon.com/CottageCutz-Super-Lube-Machine-4-23-Ounce/dp/B003W0P9TM/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1443932928&sr=8-15&keywords=sewing+machine+oil
  8. I have this bottle of lube that I was recommended for a CNC mill. It's a multipurpose synthetic oil with PTFE. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000UKUHXK?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00 Can I use this on my UM2's rods? Thanks
  9. I think I am avoiding the beta because it was missing a feature... now I can't remember what. My computer is also nearly out of SSD space so I avoid installing stuff when I can. Sooo I guess it's about time for an upgrade.
  10. I'm all for printing with Simplify3D, I paid for it already... it's just there's some glaring problems that I've been too lazy to try and solve right now.
  11. I can barely tell they are also talking about Simplify3D, I have a license but it doesn't print nicely, as in, I can't ever get the speed settings to match what Cura does, but it does slice fast... But I have a good computer and patience, soooo I'd rather see Cura at least add an infill extrusion width adjustment. Either that or triple line per one wall of infill.
  12. When Cura does infill, it does a bunch of X with single lines, and the distance between parallel lines gets shorter as infill setting is higher. But this is a bit problematic, I found that since infill is usually started after a travel move, along with possibly retraction, would make the filament pressure drop and not recover fast enough, often causing gaps. As you probably know, when one layer has a gap, it tends to propagate upwards, causing a crack. This ruins the strength of the infill, and makes infill only useful as internal scaffolding so the top layers don't sag. I want infill that actually adds to the strength of the part. All we need to do is make the infill thicker. Either by printing many lines 0.4mm wide right next to each other, or jacking up the extrusion rate to 200% just for infill. What do you think?
  13. Noticed this forum section without any posts, so I'll get the ball rolling The special enclosure for electronics in my 4th year design project is 3D printed http://eleccelerator.com/our-fourth-year-design-project-aruci/
  14. I need to replace my Ultimaker2 bowden tube, the github repo https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/blob/master/1266_Bowden_tube_(x1)/B1266-Z2P-A.pdf says that the tube is 1/4" OD 1/8" ID, but I ordered one and it... it doesn't seem the same when compared to the one that shipped with my Ultimaker2. Maybe it's supposed to be 1/4" OD 3/16" ID?
  15. lol this is the equivalent of buying an inkjet printer and printing things your kid draws using MS paint, but this time, just a more expensive printer. Not that there's anything wrong with it, just saying it's kind of a first world problem. Also not saying I wouldn't like kids to have this, but... wouldn't clay or Legos be more... fun?
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to the Ultimaker Community of 3D printing experts. Visit the following links to read more about our Terms of Use or our Privacy Policy. Thank you!