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Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts


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  1. I made this for the library this week. It seems like somebody was a bit too rough (that's being polite about it) when inserting a SD card into the printer. The card ejector broke and there was glass falling off the LCD screen, and the LCD is now missing some lines. A replacement front panel is about $45 shipped from AliExpress, so a month worth of downtime, and a whopping $90 from Ultimaker OEM... Plus... I've already replaced the front panel once this year. The replacement panel from AliExpress had some quirks, the wheel now works backwards in comparison to OEM, and th
  2. Can we keep the "open file" icon even in preview mode? And can we automatically go back to "prepare" mode if we select "delete all models"/"clear build plate"? (or even just go to "prepare" mode whenever there's nothing at all) Thanks I don't like the extra step of clicking "prepare" before clicking "open file". (yes I know there are hotkeys, I'm also on a tablet half the time, btw touch support would be nice but I'm not going to ask for it yet)
  3. Yes, I mentioned that. But these are Ultimaker 2+ machines with the geared extruders and they can handle another foot of teflon tubing no problem. These are not the Ultimaker 2 without the geared extruder that had the problems with friction.
  4. Original post at http://eleccelerator.com/switching-the-public-library-3d-printers-to-use-cartridges/ Ha, that title makes me sound so evil. See… this library actually leaves their 3D printers unsupervised, and the patrons use them how they please. I love it, getting people exposed to the latest tech is our goal. But this means that people do not realize how to properly remove filament from the printers, leading to tangles and knots in the filament spools. A single mistake could essentially render a $20 spool useless, it becomes a time bomb for printer jams, making peop
  5. I designed a peristaltic pump using Onshape. I 3D printed it using a Ultimaker2 printer, and other parts include some ball bearings, flexible tubing, a DC motor gearbox, and some circuitry. It's purpose is to pump blended food into a person's feeding tube when they cannot physically eat, it was built for my grandfather while he was treating esophagus cancer. Check it out here: http://www.bocabearings.com/innovation-contest/ContestantDetails.aspx?ProjectID=221 It is entered into the Boca Bearings Innovation Contest. If you like it, please give me a vote. Thanks. Some of these parts took 30 h
  6. I feel like applying some every time I see some dark streaks on my rods. Not sure if that's correct. I still have enough of the green packet that shipped with the UM2 for one more application.
  7. OK thanks, is this one acceptable? http://www.amazon.com/CottageCutz-Super-Lube-Machine-4-23-Ounce/dp/B003W0P9TM/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1443932928&sr=8-15&keywords=sewing+machine+oil
  8. I have this bottle of lube that I was recommended for a CNC mill. It's a multipurpose synthetic oil with PTFE. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000UKUHXK?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00 Can I use this on my UM2's rods? Thanks
  9. I think I am avoiding the beta because it was missing a feature... now I can't remember what. My computer is also nearly out of SSD space so I avoid installing stuff when I can. Sooo I guess it's about time for an upgrade.
  10. I'm all for printing with Simplify3D, I paid for it already... it's just there's some glaring problems that I've been too lazy to try and solve right now.
  11. I can barely tell they are also talking about Simplify3D, I have a license but it doesn't print nicely, as in, I can't ever get the speed settings to match what Cura does, but it does slice fast... But I have a good computer and patience, soooo I'd rather see Cura at least add an infill extrusion width adjustment. Either that or triple line per one wall of infill.
  12. When Cura does infill, it does a bunch of X with single lines, and the distance between parallel lines gets shorter as infill setting is higher. But this is a bit problematic, I found that since infill is usually started after a travel move, along with possibly retraction, would make the filament pressure drop and not recover fast enough, often causing gaps. As you probably know, when one layer has a gap, it tends to propagate upwards, causing a crack. This ruins the strength of the infill, and makes infill only useful as internal scaffolding so the top layers don't sag. I want infill that
  13. Noticed this forum section without any posts, so I'll get the ball rolling The special enclosure for electronics in my 4th year design project is 3D printed http://eleccelerator.com/our-fourth-year-design-project-aruci/
  14. I need to replace my Ultimaker2 bowden tube, the github repo https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/blob/master/1266_Bowden_tube_(x1)/B1266-Z2P-A.pdf says that the tube is 1/4" OD 1/8" ID, but I ordered one and it... it doesn't seem the same when compared to the one that shipped with my Ultimaker2. Maybe it's supposed to be 1/4" OD 3/16" ID?
  15. lol this is the equivalent of buying an inkjet printer and printing things your kid draws using MS paint, but this time, just a more expensive printer. Not that there's anything wrong with it, just saying it's kind of a first world problem. Also not saying I wouldn't like kids to have this, but... wouldn't clay or Legos be more... fun?
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