dirkdirk
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Posts posted by dirkdirk
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interposed question:
why is the shell set to 1.0 by default for quick print setting? (no multiple of nozzle dia)
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Hi,
Nachdem meine Druckergebisse immer etwas schlechter wurden (unterextrusiuon, keine richtig geschlossene Deckfläche mehr usw.) war es an der Zeit den PFTE Coupler zu tauschen.
Durch meinen Beruf habe ich die Möglichkeit die Teile selbst herzustellen. Habe nun ein paar Teile übrig und biete diese auf ebay an.
Wer will kann auch direkt bei mir über pn anfragen. (2€ günstiger wegen ebay-Gebühren) Bezahlung per Paypal.
Die Teile sind aus Glasfaserverstärktem (25%) Teflon hergestellt.
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=201320240287
Gruß Dirk
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Try to level your bed closer to the nozzle so that the Material gets more squished.
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Optimal solution (for me) would be to enter the mm's where the cut should be for bottom and top. (2 prints)
And when there would be a checkbox for enable/disable solid top/bottom at cut..wow. no need for an another 3d program :cool:
solid top/bottom at cut would be nice for gluing
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Doesn't work for Parts where orientation is needed :wink:
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Tach auch
Habe zu diesem Thema auch einige Fragen.
Bei mir sieht Cura 15.02.1 (http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/gallery/image/13532-cura-15021/) aus wie bei „3D-Printerstore24 / Post14“ (siehe hierzu das rot umrahmte).
Werden die Drucke korrekt gedruckt, trotz „fehlender Buildplate“ (im Gegensatz zu Cura 14.12.1 sieht es schon etwas komisch aus)?
Die Größe der Platform und Ausrichtung stimmt. Mehr kannst du mit der einen (linken) nozzle nicht erreichen..
....
Zu meiner nächsten Frage.
Wie handhabt Ihr es mit den Softwareupdates und könnte es „schaden, sprich Qualitätsverluste haben“, wenn Cura und UM2 Software nicht auf dem gleichen Stand sind?
2 Beispiele:
Cura hat 14.09 und der Ultimaker 2 hat 14.12.1
Cura hat 14.12.1 und der Ultimaker 2 hat 14.09
Welche Situation wäre jetzt „schlimmer“ oder spielt das keine grosse Rolle?
Besten Dank für euer Feedback
Gruss
pixl
Die Software und Firmware sind in alle Richtungen kompatibel.
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Hi,
is there a way to cut off the Top of a part? I know it is possible with a plugin with a pause at a specific layer for example.
It would be nice to have a second option beside the "cut off object bottom" for "cut off object top" so that you can print large model in two parts without the need of meshmixer to cut the pieces.
Thank you, greets
dirk
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I don't know what is normal for an ultimaker2, but in my case I printed nearly 500h without any problems. Then the top layer start to doesn't touch anymore. Changed the coupler and it prints like the first day..
maybe somone else has an another idea?
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You have to use a plugin when you want to deactivate the fans for a specific layer. TweakAtZ
If the coupler is deformed the material doesn't comes out in the calculated "form/amount". This is the only understandable reason for me..
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Exactly my problem..as I mentioned before turn side fans OFF!
If this solve the problem, change the ptfe coupler. Worked for me.
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I had the same problem. Replacing the coupler works for me. But your tip looks good. Must be something different when printing with Fans off doesn't close the surface.
With small cove I mean your inner wall is not smooth.
Similar like this: http://ultimaker.ipbhost.com/uploads/gallery/album_1654/gallery_36283_1654_311489.jpg
If you go thicker with the first layer the area where the first Layer lays on turns wider -> more adhesion (0.2 doesn't squish more, because the feedrate is slowed down. Afaik!)
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If you have problems with adhesion at 0.3mm layer your distance seems too large.
I think the coupler has a small cove at the inner walls. When you change your Material the tip is probably not just sharp it has a bulge or?
Edit:
Something like this
http://ultimaker.ipbhost.com/uploads/gallery/album_1654/gallery_36283_1654_311489.jpg
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Nothing important with first layer. Bigger is better :-D
Try fans off and less distance nozzle-plate
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Mhh...try to level your bed closer to the nozzle and print again with Fans Off.
If the surface is closed with Fans Off , replace your ptfe coupler.
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Hi,
The main thing you changed is the shell thickness from 1.0 to 0.8. But what does that mean?
Does it mean I cannot create a wall thickness of 1.0 or 1.2 mm? I cannot belive it!?!
> ...PTFE coupler is dead
What does 'dead' mean? How can I check if it is dead?
I think your combination of speed and shell is not ideal.
When your ptfe coupler is dead/defect (the white teflon part) the inner walls are deformed so that the material comes out very uneven. You can take the nozzle apart and take a look into the coupler.
Maybe you can print the parts with my settings posted above and report back?
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or just get the IPM Coupler from 3D solex
"Not for sale yet. In testing"
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Today I have also installed the new fan. ( MC25060V2 - A99 ) It is extremely quiet.
The first print with it looked like before although the cooling capacity is significantly less.
Maybe the stronger one would be better to conserve the coupler?
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Maybe you can try these settings with your circle and square :
Nozzle 220
Bed 60
Layer 0.15
Shell 0.8
Bottom/Top 1.2
Fill 25
Speed 50 everywhere except bottom 20
Initial layer 0.3
If this doesn't work, something with your hardware must be wrong.
Maybe your Ptfe coupler is dead...
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Try the Pluging SwapAtZ..
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A picture would be helpful.
When printing with 0.2mm layer you have to increase the top/bottom thickness.
Min. 6 layers, better 8. Try 1.2 or 1.6mm top/bottom.
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Maybe your short belts are not tight enough?
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide#wallspace
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Video ist privat...
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I have also ordered one from ebay. What i have read about the Fan, this one will work like a charm. Now I am looking for a low noise fan to replace the two side fans.
Any suggestions?
Vorteile bei Bestellung beim Hersteller?
in Deutsch
Posted
Zum Thema iGo3D würde ich hier erst nochmal ein wenig lesen und dann überlegen wo du bestellst. Nur so als Tip..